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Posted

Been reading the search posts on engine mounts. The vote is Steele. Called them yesterday, $98.00 for the lower pair AND six (6) weeks figuring in 'travel time' AND must sent them my mounts, front and rear so they can clean them then put in the new mounts!

I find it hard to believe that they need the steel parts. Called Roberts wow the difference in price, availabilty, etc. but your comments are consistent, Steele for Rubber!

Comments requested.

Posted

That seems odd to me too. The rear mounts aren't bonded to the steel. Only the front one is like that. Steele rubber is great for windows etc. I wouldn't hesitate to use Roberts for the engine mounts.

Posted

I have the rear rubber piece here at the computer. It only has the steel sleeve in it. My mount does not look $90.00 bad. It has edge cracks but the inner rubber is solild, even has a little give. The front one must be replaced but that one is easy to do. Gave Steele's catalogue a second look and they DO require cores for rear mounts (2) and the triagular front mount!!

Called Roberts their prices $24.00 a pair for the top rear mount and 16.00 a pair for the rear bottom mount (both rubber mounts are on the same bolt. Front mount $24.00. No core required. Very puzzeling but this is not all apart often.

Posted

Will google Vintage Power Wagons, found Vintage Auto Parts, same?

Roberts shows two rubber pieces, my truck only has one. It is on the top on which rests the motor mount 'arm'. The bolt goes through the 'arm' then the top rubber 'donut' which goes between a pair of 'braces' and then the lock washer and nut. These are two (2) large washers, one of steel, the other appears to be of 'fibre'.

Posted

Found Vintage at Google. Great pictorial on parts. They show only one rubber rear mount @ $20.00 each. I only have one rear rubber donut. Roberts shows two (2). HMMMMM

Posted

I am wrong, went back to the page and he also show two. I have my mount here at the computer. There is the reverse gusset arm which rests on the rubber 'donut' mount, then the frame mount which has two (2) braces through which the bold goes then the lock washer and nut.

Hmmmm

Gas out here is around $1.75, has been all week.

Posted

I looked in my 40-47 parts book and it shows an upper and lower mount. Its possible that either your truck is missing them or that they were discontinued on later trucks and roberts catalog doesn't list it seperately.

Posted

Took the mount back to the truck, I need two rubber 'donuts' per side mount. Somehow I lost BOTH lower rubber mounts when disassembling

.

Ed, my springs attach differently than yours do. Mine is a '52. My spring goes into a reverse sadle mount and the pin / zerk goes through. (See attachment) I also noted how you are painting the frame, I had about the same idea. Put a couple hours of power brushing today so it looks better now than the picture shows.

Posted

We discovered the pilot house trucks are backwards from the job rated ones for front spring attachment in a discussion a few weeks ago. Possibly something to do with the pilot house relocated axle. FYI my truck frame was painted when I got it. I did power wash the coupes frame though

Posted

Ed, I wasn't putting down the paint job, just commenting that a partial, cosmetic paint job was done by 'others'. I am a novice at this and I am so amazed at the thoroughness of most of you and your patience with those of us who are looking at the insides of an old vehical for the first time. I am NOT going for pristine rebuild only a cleaned up, safe vehical. Been thinking I may paint the frame at all, just clean it.

Please be patient with us, we will continue to ask confusing and ofttimes unclear, wrong terminology questions but I, for one, am having a lot of fun, and sore back muscles, doing this and I, like others, will amaze our skeptical spouses and eventully drive these old vehicals out of our garages and eat hamburgers and fries at "Fat Jacks' on Friday night.

Interesting that the shackle on the front spring is on the rear of the spring on some (mine) and the front on others (Eds). Eds, Don's, and 48D

's pictures were immensely helpful. I went to the garage this morning to look more closely at mine. Not going to work on my springs until I have the truck running. Have taken enough apart, got to go back up now.

Posted

Didn't think you were putting it down. Just wasnt sure what you meant. The frame on my truck was actually professionally painted at a body shop before I got it. So was the body that used to be on my frame. The previous owner street rodded the frame that was under the body I have and then put the freshly painted body on that frame. So my truck is 2 trucks combined. And whoever painted my truck red way back did about as partial 1/2 assed job as possible.

Feel free to keep asking we'll be here to answer

Posted

I know it ain't perfect but it is cleaner. The firewall was black, note third pic. When I started to sand it the black came off like old grease and the light blue paint above was really thin.

I think I will touch up the frame, most of it isn't seen anyway but the firewall has so many holes in it I'm not sure what I will do, maybe put a nice piece of tin over the entire area. I sortof think I will just keep cleaning and present it as a clean-up truck, not a restored one. A more practical approach which can later be restored further by. . .

Posted

Thats a good plan. Thats basically all I did to mine. I completely restored all the mechanicals and then just put the body back together. I did weld a few holes in the firewall shut.

Posted

Cant say I remember back that far. Now if that was my car you'd see the same thing. That one had a hole in the oil pan that was plugged up with sludge. When it came back from the shop nice and cleaned out inside the fresh oil I was pooring in was going right onto the floor.

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