Bob Riding Posted September 15, 2008 Report Posted September 15, 2008 I am about ready to pull the motor from my '49 B2B, so I can take it down to the rebuilder (Tex Davis, Fresno, CA) . I had a much easier time when pulling the motor from my '40 Dodge, by pulling off the entire front clip - fenders, grill,etc., all as one piece. Is there a similar technique with the pilothouse trucks or is there enough clearance the way it is? Quote
Don Coatney Posted September 15, 2008 Report Posted September 15, 2008 Bob; Did you eat your wheaties this morning? Quote
Young Ed Posted September 15, 2008 Report Posted September 15, 2008 The 39-47 trucks like Don showed a pic of are designed to have the front clip easily pulled for easier engine removal. I suppose they figured the truck engines would get worked to death and need replacement. The factory directions show it being removed. I suspect the pilot house trucks are the same way. The 39-47 front clip only has about a dozen bolts before it comes off. You can even leave the radiator and upper grill in place which are missing from the picture. Quote
Bob Riding Posted September 15, 2008 Author Report Posted September 15, 2008 thanks! very cool...and being in CA, I of course had granola this morning...will that make a difference?...Dude! Quote
Reg Evans Posted September 15, 2008 Report Posted September 15, 2008 I've swapped many engines in Pilot House trucks and never found the need to remove the front clip. Just the hood and radiator works fine for me. Quote
Bob Riding Posted September 16, 2008 Author Report Posted September 16, 2008 Thanks Reg, you just saved me some time! Bob Quote
MBF Posted September 17, 2008 Report Posted September 17, 2008 That is one nice looking solid truck. What a patina-she wears her age very well! Mike Quote
grey beard Posted September 17, 2008 Report Posted September 17, 2008 We all know that Reg is the MANNN, but having done it both ways, please beleive me when I say it's MUCH easier to do all the work you will be doing with the nose removed. Here's what it takes to get the nose off: 1. two nuts on the front center crossmemeber under the radiator area 2. two 3/8-inch bolts inside the cab on each side of the cowl behind the kick panel. 3. one bolt on each side at the rear lower fender corners - buzz 'em off with a grinder - they always rust here - saves the sheet metal 4. drain the radiator and pull the two radiator hoses loose 5. AMD only if it's a 48 or 49 - disconnect the two radiator-to-cowl rods and, viola! she's ready to lift off. Now, with the nose out of the way, you can even see the master cylinder. All the wiring connections are accessible, and anyrthing else that needs work while the drive train's out of the way is twice as easy to get to as it is leaning over those fat fenders. Mebby it's just because I'm short and fat that I feel this way - ughhhhh! 1 Quote
Bob Riding Posted September 20, 2008 Author Report Posted September 20, 2008 Greybeard; Thanks, It sounds like full removal is the way to do it, especially if you need to work on the other systems...Bob Quote
Reg Evans Posted September 20, 2008 Report Posted September 20, 2008 I would also agree that pulling the front clip is the way to go if your are also restoring the truck. But if it's just an engine rebuild or swap then I wouldn't bother. Nice 1 ton pickup by the way Bob. What does the lettering on the door say? Quote
Bob Riding Posted October 4, 2008 Author Report Posted October 4, 2008 The lettering is from a Sonoma county mom and pop grocery store called "Baldy's " Pretty funny since most of my hair went south years ago! Quote
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