Whats a Newly Rebuilt 218 worth?

[BobT-47P15]

My only question is.....will orange go with your car????

$600 seems fair if the rebuild is good.

I'm looking at a flathead that was probably rebuilt several years ago

for $225. Been sitting covered up in a garage building for a few years,

don't even know just how many. Turns over - has pretty good compression

on 5 out of 6. The 6th one may come around with use of the engine.

[fadingfastsd]

Ok guys,

Picked up the engine this afternoon. I think it was a great deal.

Engine runs great, has about 150 miles on it.

Has all receipts for the rebuild. It was pulled out of the car about 3 weeks ago.

It came with a TON of extra parts: driveshaft, multiple B&B carbs, e-brake assembly, clutch assembly and linkage, a bunch of other stuff.

I'm definitely happy with the deal for $600.

I'll put up pics of it tomorrow.

Now who's got some tips on pulling the engine!?

[james curl]

In my opinion, pulling the entire front clip is the easiest way to go along with the removable floorboards. I have done it both ways, with the hood removed, the radiator and the cross brace on the radiator support also removed. It will require an engine leveler on the hoist so that you can raise the front of the engine straight up then level the engine when the front is fender height. Be careful when you move the hoist with the engine that high in the air, it weighs over 600 lbs. and the hoist can roll over on you with the engine that high. If you pull the front clip remove the front tires before removing the sheetmetal, that way you do not have to lift the rear of the clip over the tires, now the engine can be removed by raising only as high as the front crossmember.

[Don Coatney]

Dennis Hemmingway did his without removing the hood.

[greg g]

I did mine by removing the hood and radiator. The center section of the floor is rmoveable if the fasteners ar not too rusty. mine were so I did not remove my floor. I did remove my transmission. I do not believe you can do the egine and transmission as a unit with the front sheet metal on the car. Pulling the dog house is fairly easy but it entails some work to the wiring harness. If your wires are tender due to age you may want to consider this when you do your job. Pulling the engine itself is pretty much self explantitory once all the connections are removed.

I would pull the genny and the fan, disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold, disconnetc the starter cable, the fule line the throttle linkage choke cable, temp gauge line (be very carefull with this one, if you twist and crack the tube the ether will escape and the gauge will need repair) the neater hoses, the vacuum line to the wipers if so equipped, and then lift her out.

You do want the angle thingie as the thing needs to be tilted frot high.

Also make sure your hoist is on level ground or that you can push the car out from under the engine leaving the hoist where it is. As noted that is a heavy chunk of metal hanging there. I did not sufficintly tighten the cinch bolt on the arm where the extension come out. When I go the engine up in position the extension slid back togehter. I had to then let the air out of the front tires and push the car back to get it out of the bay. In either case I would not try it with the hood in place. Dennis is a braver man than I. As you can see in the pic it might be a good idea to remove the carburetor also.

[De Soto Frank]

Greg raises a good point about the under-hood wiring; if it's "intact but fragile", you might think twice about pulling the clip...

I will probably "clip" my '41 De Soto at engine-swap time, for ease of work and also so that I can easily clean-down the front frame and paint it .

I would recommend dropping your tranny first, as well as removing the front floor-board (pull front seat cusion first: front edge "pops-up", then slides forward, then out the side (easier w/ two people).

I have had bad experiences with modern engine hoists "rolling" or "tipping" (jack-end coming off the floor; my freshly rebuilt RB-383 did a "face-plant" this way, on its way over to the car...), so I would agree with those who suggest "go no higher than necessary.

Definitely have a helper for the lifting part - second pair of eyes/hands.

Work slowly, work safely.

Good luck!

De Soto Frank

[Reg Evans]

I also did mine by just removing the hood,radiator and cross piece over the radiator. Things would have been much easier if I'd had one of those angle thingies Greg mentioned.

[hkestes41]

Just did mine after removing the front sheet metal/radiator and support. Removed the sheet metal by myself after removing the front tires. Also removed and installed the engine/transmission as a unit again by myself so it is not that difficult.

You do need to heed the advice about the wiring though. Mine had been converted to 12V by the previous owner who unfortunately was a hack. I took the time to label every wire's location before pulling the sheet metal. What I was not aware of was that he had not used a single crimp connection in the conversion. Just twisted the ends of wires together. So, when the wiring was moved around during the removal/install they all fell apart so my labeling was out the window. Now I'm in the process of rewiring, which I guess is a blessing in disguise considering I was driving a fire in waiting.

[mackster]

Ok guys,

Picked up the engine this afternoon. I think it was a great deal.

Engine runs great, has about 150 miles on it.

Has all receipts for the rebuild. It was pulled out of the car about 3 weeks ago.

It came with a TON of extra parts: driveshaft, multiple B&B carbs, e-brake assembly, clutch assembly and linkage, a bunch of other stuff.

I'm definitely happy with the deal for $600.

I'll put up pics of it tomorrow.

Now who's got some tips on pulling the engine!?

let me know if you need an extra pair of hands, I live tw ohours away from you. I can swing by and help...Mackster.

[fadingfastsd]

Hey guys, thanks SO SO SO much for all the tips!

It really is much appreciated.

This will be my first engine swap, or pulling an engine in general for that matter.

I'm trying to decide between doing the work in my carport (I have a house, but somewhat limited room in the carport due to having a boat), or going over to my friends wakeboard tower fab shop.

I'm going to be starting on the work tomorrow morning...Mackster are you free? I definitely could use another pair of hands, and I'll provide all the beer and food!

I'm going to get the new engine set up with all my Langdon's goodies before dropping it in. I plan on removing the hood, radiator & core support (does the core brace need to be cut out and welded back in?)

I have a good cherry picker available I will pick up from my buddy tomorrow morning too.

[james curl]

Drill out the rivets in the cross brace and replace when finished with 5/16" grade bolts.

[steveplym]

Hey guys, thanks SO SO SO much for all the tips!

It really is much appreciated.

This will be my first engine swap, or pulling an engine in general for that matter.

I'm trying to decide between doing the work in my carport (I have a house, but somewhat limited room in the carport due to having a boat), or going over to my friends wakeboard tower fab shop.

I'm going to be starting on the work tomorrow morning...Mackster are you free? I definitely could use another pair of hands, and I'll provide all the beer and food!

I'm going to get the new engine set up with all my Langdon's goodies before dropping it in. I plan on removing the hood, radiator & core support (does the core brace need to be cut out and welded back in?)

I have a good cherry picker available I will pick up from my buddy tomorrow morning too.

When I pulled my motor I pulled out the radiator support and cleaned it up and painted it. Was not really hard to do. Removed the horns and front hood lock plate as well. I've pulled a motor without removing them, but makes it much easier and keeps from damaging the horns. I decided to clean up everything and paint it with the engine out of the car. Made it much nicer and easier.

Also take these guys advice on getting some type of device to change the angle while it is attached to the cherry picker. It will have to go in and out at an angle, but you can use that device to ease it in.

Like the one pictured here.

Also make sure you use Grade 8 bolts to attach your chains to the motor. I've made that mistake before and used 5 grade and broke off a few. Takes a lot to break a grade 8. You can get them at any local hardware store.

[mackster]

I just read your last posts. sorry I am already at work. too little notice.... maybe this weekend I can cruise by. I have a dj gig going too but that is at night so maybe then. if you have any use for me...thanks Mack G.

[fadingfastsd]

Hey guys thanks for all the tips.

I started the process, working in my driveway.

I'm pulling the engine and trans together.

Took the hood off first.

Removed the radiator, and cut the cross brace (I'll weld it back in place later).

Everything is loose and the engine will move freely side to side and up/down, but I cannot get it to come out.

I have the driveshaft loose & disconnected but not completely seperated (without the engine coming forward more, I can't get it all the way off).

It seems like the trans is getting stuck between the trans crossmember and the floorpan...

how did you get this thing out of there with the floorpan in place?

Thanks!

[steveplym]

Hey guys thanks for all the tips.

I started the process, working in my driveway.

I'm pulling the engine and trans together.

Took the hood off first.

Removed the radiator, and cut the cross brace (I'll weld it back in place later).

Everything is loose and the engine will move freely side to side and up/down, but I cannot get it to come out.

I have the driveshaft loose & disconnected but not completely seperated (without the engine coming forward more, I can't get it all the way off).

It seems like the trans is getting stuck between the trans crossmember and the floorpan...

how did you get this thing out of there with the floorpan in place?

Thanks!

Looks like you have learned what the rest of us have and that you can't pull out the motor and trans as one unit without removing the front clip. You have to pull out the trans and then pull out the motor and bell housing. It is a tight fit even with just the bell housing.

[fadingfastsd]

Yup I think I've learned that the hard way! I was under the impression that I could.

Well I'll pull of the trans and that should do it.

Is there any way to fit the new engine and trans back in one piece?

Or am I gonna have the same problem?

[Don Coatney]

.

I have the driveshaft loose & disconnected but not completely seperated (without the engine coming forward more, I can't get it all the way off).

Once again WHY????

[steveplym]

Yup I think I've learned that the hard way! I was under the impression that I could.

Well I'll pull of the trans and that should do it.

Is there any way to fit the new engine and trans back in one piece?

Or am I gonna have the same problem?

I had the same problem and could not do it either way. It's a pain to get that trans out and back in with it sitting on jack stands, but it can be done.

I've done it, just make sure when you put the motor back in you line up the clutch pressure plate and disk with the line up tool. Best to leave it in place until you get the engine back in, then you can put the trans in while leaving the pressure plate bolts kind of loose and the input shaft should go in smoothly. You'll only cuss five or ten times if I remember.

[fadingfastsd]

Hey thanks for all the tips guys.

Got the engine out after pulling the trans.

4 bolts and it slipped right off.

What is the line up tool you're talking about?

I'm assuming when installing my new engine I'll just pull the new trans off as well. How do I line it back up correctly to reinstall it?

[steveplym]

That would be the clutch alignment tool. Go to any auto parts store with your clutch disc and they should be able to find one to fit your needs. I'm almost positive that is how I found one for mine.

Here's a photo of one so you'll know what you are looking for.

[Don Coatney]

I have sucessfully installed many transmissions over the years without using

an alignment tool. I would simply eyeball the disc to insure it was centered

on the pilot bearing. However my eyes were not nearly as worn out then as

they are now. I had a spare input shaft from the rebuild of my transmission

so I used it as an alignment tool last time I installed my transmission. I also

have never used the dowell rods but I was a lot younger then and my

arms/back/etc. were not nearly as worn out then as they are now.