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Been a member since 2013 when I bought my 1952 B3B. Got my 1947 WD21 a few years later. The terms “job rated” and “pilothouse” are used a lot, but don’t seem to enjoy consistent usage — probably due to us uninformed newbies? Just wondering if the more seasoned among us could provide a more definitive answer to a few questions. 1. Job Rated: I’ve seen posts that limit this term to the 1939-1947 years, but my ‘52 has a “job rated” badge on the front grill. Does the term properly fit both? 2. Pilothouse: does this term relate to all cabs in the 1948-1953 years due to the higher riding cab or just to the five window “delux” cab versions. I’ve seen pilothouse used for 3 window cabs too, but can’t tell is that’s proper use of the term. Thanks in advance for the clarity that those years of experience and wisdom can provide. Regards, Bob

I am truck shopping and need some education. The B trucks are called Pilothouse. I am seeing trucks for sale that do not have the quarter window. I missed out on a half ton "1948" flatbed and now I see a "1953" the same no quarter window. I do not know why. Would someone educate me on this era of truck I have tried to read about them and have not came across this cab information yet.

About a year ago I purchased a '49(ish) Pilothouse. The body is in great shape, motor turns over but doesn't run. I've wanted to do a project like this for years but I've never done anything like it before. I am pretty comfortable with fabrication, currently practicing my mig welding, and good with mechanical stuff (but again not a lot of car/truck experience). My Wish-list: A Pilothouse that I can drive to work and back (50 miles round trip, potentially on the highway) daily. Modern suspension and brakes A/C (I live in Florida) Sorry to those this may offend, but I am not a Mopar purist. I love the style of these trucks and I want to keep the outer appearances in-line with that era. But as far as the "guts" go I want to use what ever combination of make/model/year that helps me achieve my goal without spending a fortune or a lifetime. Considering this is my first build I am thinking about doing the S-10 swap (maybe with the code 504 kit). My question is: Can I just keep the existing S-10 motor/transmission/accessories and fit the dodge body over it? I see so many posts about swapping motors with these s-10 conversions but it seems like for a beginner the simplest path would be to just reuse the s-10 powertrain. Am I missing something? The other option I see is keeping the original frame and swapping out the front and rear ends for something more modern and building up a new powertrain but that seems a little daunting and I don't want to bite off more that I can chew for my first go. Any advice for the newbie? Thanks, - Jason

Hey there, I have searched and searched the forums for my question with no luck. I have a 53 1ton dually, I was hoping to keep the axle original and just put new wheels on to remove the "widow makers" but can not find any wheels that are one piece steel, I believe they are 6 on 7.25. So my thought was to do an axle swap with a newer dually axle, maybe a dana 60 plus I would also be able to kill two birds with one stone and upgrade to disc brakes. Does anyone have experience with a dually axle swap or any ideas with the wheels

Hey everyone. Looks like spring is finally here in Minnesota! I am wondering if anyone could share any pictures of their Cummins swaps into their Pilothouses. Mine is a 53 1.5 ton. Particularly the radiator and intercooler mounting and what radiator they are using? I see some people have done the swap and it looks like they use the stock (Really Wide) radiator and intercooler but I do not see how they fit them in. Any help would be appreciated. Scott

Hi, I recently picked up a Dodge pilothouse 1 1/2 ton or 2 ton (Not sure which one) I am located in Minnesota near Minneapolis and need help finding a front axle for my truck. I learned that I am not very good at removing kingpins Also would like some help positively idB-entifying the year, my title says 1948 but i have my doubts. Serial Number 82580207 Model B-3HHA152 GVW 16000 pounds Thanks in advance for your help Scott

I recently saw a '53 Pilothouse 1/2 ton that is painted all-black except for the correct yellow wheels. I have not seen all black before, was that an offering in 1953? Crossposted to Pilothouse group. Thanks!

Well I finally did something I've wanted to do for thirty years and got me that old truck. I am super excited and more than a little overwhelmed at how much I've had to learn. I've read a lot of the forums here and there is so much knowledge and information I thought I would reach out for your opinions instead of blindly going off into the wilderness. It is a closely original '53 if you don't count the '54 bed and rear fenders, and the lowering. The engine and drive train are stock and its still running 6 volt with all the requisite parts. It's a running operating daily driver at this time. Really, I could just get in it (as soon as it gets here) and drive it. I would like to take it to work everyday on the highway at 70mph (so cal drivers will run me down at 55) instead of threading city streets. I'm also city-bound and have to have a garage rented or the work done so labor costs need to be minimized, meaning I don't want to change any single part more than once. To me that means I need to really plan smartly. I'm also looking toward stringing tasks out over the long term just to manage cash flow. So I start seeing issues of how to do this, hence my call for your knowledge and opinion. The rear end is a 4.10 from what I can tell. Are there options for overdrive? Cheap replacements? I've heard that a Bronco might work. Or I could replace the leaky rear brake cylinders (I have the parts but not the puller) and change the gearing maybe. Then my mechanic keeps saying it should have new brake lines and a $500 dual master cylinder. I like the one post about a Plymouth Valient MC for $17 instead, but I'm not convinced I need it to begin with. I WOULD need it if I changed the rear end - loosing the parking brake that is currently on the drive shaft in all likelihood. If I am going to do 70mph in a truck designed for 45mph, should I just go to disk brakes and start replacing everything underneath? Would it ride like a crazy death train at that speed regardless? So, my head is swimming. Really, any opinion at all is a help. Thanks in advance Mike I threw up a quick album if you care to review it. These are the ones from the seller. Truck isn't even here yet http://p15-d24.com/gallery/album/229-53-b1/ UPDATE: Well, I finally got it here and can read vin tag. It is a B4B (so I changed the title above). Also, I noted that half of the Fulton visor is missing from the trip down, there are no brakes at all, the right rear hub wheel are shot and need replacement and the last four feet of the frame are off in all three dimensions. Maybe four dimensions. (sigh). Plymouthy Adams kinda nailed it in that regard. Part of the journey I guess. I still get excited when I see her and if other good people can shake off a garage fire I'm inspired to step up. Think I'll flip out that rear end after all. 3:55? 3.73? Hmm ... still swimming but learning a lot. Thanks all.

File Name: 1948-1949 Dodge Truck Drivers Manual PDF File Submitter: VintageMoParts File Submitted: 14 Jul 2013 File Category: Instructions, Manuals & Templates 60 Page Downloadable PDF Drivers Manual for the 1948-1949 Dodge "Job Rated" Trucks. Series B-1-B and B-1-C These were very detailed manuals and can be very useful in keeping your Pilothouse on the road. Buy more online at www.vintagemoparts.com Click here to download this file

i was just wondering if there were any people out there who had experience with converting the pilothouse B-4 1/2 ton front brakes to something more modern. we were going to stay stock, but we found out that the drums are shot and new ones are $500 NOS each. we were looking for some more modern drum brakes that could be adapted to fit that DONT have an astronomical price tag. not sure whether to just swap the whole front axle with something, or find something that could replace the original brakes with the same spindles. almost thinking universal trailer brakes could be adapted? any help would be appreciated.