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I am going to convert my 49 Coronet to 12V. I have been scouring the net for information on how to handle the servo on the Gyromatic tranny, but have only come up with "it can be done" - which just encourages me to find a way. Before I mess up the tranny (or force a larger project), does anyone know how this can be done? Looking at the wiring diagram, if I use a 12V to 6V converter or ballast resister on the red wire off of the coil (and switch it to the + side), that will power the transmission circuit with 6V negative ground. Will this work? Has anyone done anything that has? Before all the 6V faithful chime in, due to my wife's asthma, AC is a necessity. Not a luxury. That makes 12V also a necessity. That goes before all the "brighter lights" and "modern stereo" arguments. Sure was easier on my old 49 SD 3 on the tree ....

Hello to all, I just acquired this 1959 dodge coronet like 2 weeks ago, it has some issues and I would like to rehab and rebuild it to be my everyday driver, looking for parts online any help would be appreciated thanks

Hello everyone. I made a huge mistake and pulled the guts out of my distributor without taking pictures where the wires went to. I thought I would remember but obviously that didnt happen. I have the new points added but can't finish. I'm hoping someone could pull their cap off and take some up close photos of the guts and wires. The pics I have found online don't help me much. Thank you so much for any help you can offer. -Dan

Just picked up a 1951 2dr Coronet from a 40 year auto cocoon here in AZ. The exterior is decent but very patina'd. Interior is gone as is all glass except the back (lucky there). We got the flathead to breath life again so that's good. I will be bringing the vehicle to a pro to have the trunk floor completely redone as holes the size of my fist are abundant. Brakes are first, is there a recommendation for a rebuild kit for the master cylinder or should I just buy a new one? The old is out and the bore is still very smooth. Any advice here is welcome. Thanks, Dan.

My son and I recently purchased an auto cocoon, sat for over 4 decades. We got it running, finished brakes, fluids, etc ...and we pulled it out of the garage under it's own power for the first time yesterday. I'm used to normal clutch vehicles, so I'm hoping someone can help me with this tranny functionality. I have heard that at a stoplight, the clutch does NOT have to be engaged, correct? At what speed do I clutch in order to column shift also? Thanks a lot for any help. Dan

I am attempting to put the stainless trim around the windshield in my ‘51 Meadowbrook and I am struggling pretty badly. The book says to use cord stuffed into the slot in the weatherstripping and gently pull it back against the stainless. That works great until I get to the upper corner. The trim has such a curve that it pulls the lip in under itself. I can’t seem to get the weatherstripping to go up enough to reach the stainless because it is pulled in so far away from the weatherstripping. Not to mention that the trim I not a perfect 90 and when you pull the side of the stainless it pulls the corner even farther from the weatherstripping. And every attempt I make releases the rubber lock on the weatherstrip so the lip will raise up but then I can’t get the rubber lock back in under the stainless.

Hello everyone, I discovered this board when I started doing research on the '49 Dodge Coronet that I ended up purchasing. I am new to things pre 1960s-1970s and would sure appreciate any help I can gather. First I'll go over the car 1949 Dodge Coronet Club Coupe. 230 flathead with fluid drive three speed manual. Last registered in 1976 and appears it was used as someone's college transportation. Lots of Mississippi university stickers and a fraternity front plate haha. Car is complete and, to my surprise, we drove it onto the trailer with a coffee can "gas tank" hanging from the hood. Has some rust. Holes in front floor boards etc. but right now I'll just be fixing things to get it running, driving, stopping, etc. Now some stuff about me. I live in the Detroit Metro area and work as an engineer. I grew up with 1960s muscle cars but have grown a little "bored". Fear not, I have no dreams of hemi swaps or front clip conversions etc for this car. It will stay as original as possible. I'll probably even go with some new bias plys. I want to get an experience of how these cars drive. Not how the latest hot rod show thinks it should drive. Now that that's out of the way I have my first question and it's related to doors. I ordered a shop manual from faxon but it hasn't arrived yet. Has anyone experienced sagging doors and what is a good fix? I have to lift the door to shut. Do these have conventional hinge pins? Can't seem to find them online. Also the drivers door does not open from the outside. I suspect a linkage issue. Thanks for any help and I look forward to asking many more questions haha!

Hello all, My name is Jonathan Eme, I am 31 and live in Manteca, CA. I currently work for Lexus of Pleasanton as a Service Consultant, a Hendrick Automotive company. I am married and have twin daughters. I've mainly been building fast Dodge Neon SRT-4's, but have had a passion for anything with wheels, obsessive even. My wife and I recently bought an original(rough shape) 1950 Dodge Coronet(Mopar fan) and I wanted to showcase the build here, as well as learn about the culture surrounding these types of vehicles and possibly make some friends along the way. I look forward to being a lifelong member. Current plans include a 5.7 hemi, ran on megasquirt pro, mustang II front clip(unless i can make this setup work with coil overs), discs all around, 4 link, complete custom interior, and frame-off repair. This will not be traditional in anyway. The body will retian mostly stock lines and wheel/tire style, but I plan to have a 650-700hp tank to cruise around via a built turbocharged engine. I hope to learn a lot about these cars and have fun while building it(it will be a long build, ha). Thank you for looking. Day one after bringing it home and cutting out the front seat. From what I know, the car is 100% original, been sitting 22+ years outside. I filled a 35 gallon trash can with rat feces, it smells horribly. The car is in horrible shape, but I wish I could find more history on it. 1950 Dodge Coronet day 1 by jonathan eme, on Flickr The first day we brought home our 1950 Dodge Coronet. by jonathan eme, on Flickr

I've looked everywhere (on the forum and search engines) looking for a correct or even close modern match for the metallic gold paint for 1949-50 Dodge Coronet Gyro-Matic fender script. The original is a satin or flat metallic gold with red "Gyro-Matic" inlay - See photo of a NOS example for reference. I can match the red inlay close enough, but the I haven't been able to find a close match for the satin or flat metallic gold paint. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Greetings everybody - My name is Mike and I live in Southeastern Michigan about 20 miles south of Detroit. Last week I picked up a 1949 Coronet Club Coupe and drove it home from Cleveland. Here's what I know about the car: 318 swap with a mild cam, edelbrock intake, 4 barrel edelbrock carb - 904 trans with a shift kit - super high gear rear end (I averaged 2k on the tach at 70mph) - 15 inch steel wheels and coker wide whites - butches 3 inch rear blocks - 12 volt conversion - has a nice new column. Here's some eye candy. My plans for the car: New weatherstrip for windows, doors, trunk Aerostar front spring swap (ordered and will arrive tomorrow) Front disc brake swap and add power booster Attempt to source out new bushings for the front end Upgrade the sway bar Clean up the interior and hack job wiring I'd also like to finish shaving the trim, antenna hole, and doors I'm kind of digging the primer look so once the body is straight, i'll hit it with an off white with semi flattened clear. Let me know what you think! I'm new to these old mopars so any suggest upgrades are appreciated. Also, please pass along any sources for the parts listed above. Thanks for having me!