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Showing results for tags '1953'.
Found 25 results
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Hi Mopar fans Once again ? I would like your advice ! On my Chrysler New Yorker 1953 V8 Fluid drive I have a Carburetor carter wcd 935s. It was "rebuit" with appropriate kit, but after this winter, it works very bad (too rich and hard to tune up ) I have found a New one ( rare ) But it's a 931 SC ! someone know the difference between 935s and 931sc and if 931sc will fit my NY 53 ? Thanks a lot from Belgium
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My freeze plug inside my bellhousing went today. Does anyone know if this can be accessed without pulling the motor? Can I drop the trans and bell housing instead and replace it from there? What does that process look like? Where/how do I find freeze plugs that will fit?
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My 1953 Job Rated does not have its bench seat it only has the frame that is built into cab. What are some options for making or using another truck seat? Exact replacement is almost impossible to find.
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The PO on my 53 Cranbrook had some jerry rigged gas tank put on the car that didn't really fit right and had clearly been cut and welded. It also used an different style sending unit with the fuel being pulled from there. I was able to buy one of the repo tanks for it from BernBaum. I've got a new gauge unit and hose and everything incoming. But the new tank appears to have a threaded connection in the bottom corner for the fuel pickup. Is there a specific fitting that i should be using there, or is any barbed male end threaded fitting i can find at like autozone acceptable? Just trying to figure out how may things may be original and how many are replaced.
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Hello everyone..new to the forum. Will be taking ownership of my first oldie this next weekend, a 1953 Chrysler New Yorker. Looking forward to learning from this group.. thanks Terry
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Last week I got myself a barn find Plymouth 1953 from an old man that thought it was a 51' dodge, real cheap deal, it's got the flathead six and most parts, lots of metal work to do yet. This is how it arrived at home last weekend.
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I got my 53 Cranbrook running the other day after two years of working on it, and it did great for like 20 minutes before stalling. I figured I had not got all the old gas out of the tank and that it got cranky with me, which is exactly what happened. Figured that after flushing the entire fuel system, I might as well rebuild the carb too, as it didn't look like it had been touched in years. When I bought the car, the PO had sold me a bunch of parts, including a new carb that looked identical on the outside to the one that was on the car, but seemed in much better shape. Almost brand new! they are both Carter B&B carbs with the correct type I dashpot. But inside, the well that the dashpot plunger sits in in different between the two models. I have no problem cleaning the one I took off as best as I can and putting it back in if I need to, but does anyone know which one is the correct on for the car? Or if I can just use either one on the car? The PO already did a couple wacky things to the car to make it run and throwing on a random carb he found wouldn't have surprised me in the least. Also, if anyone has any idea where to get the correct dashpot plunger I would be much obliged. The one I ordered doesn't match the one I took out of both or the ones from the manuals and is missing the check ball and vent hole through the center of the plunger. And the ones I have, the leather is all worn out on. New one is on the left.
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Working on a friends 1954 C1-B6 Job rated Pickup. I need wheel cylinders front and back and am having a hard time coming up with the correct part numbers. Any help is appreciated THANKS Randy L Peterson
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From the album: Sundry items
Finally got to take her for a drive after over a year ... Good day out. -
I recently saw a '53 Pilothouse 1/2 ton that is painted all-black except for the correct yellow wheels. I have not seen all black before, was that an offering in 1953? Crossposted to Pilothouse group. Thanks!
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Need info on puutting t5 trans behind 218 flat head ..thanks.
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License to cruise 2016 -
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hey y'all. I'm trying to get a 3 spoke moon wheel on my 53 cranbrook due to a shorty original wheel. Ive tried 2 adapters that my local shop said would fit and neither worked. Anyone have any experience or knowledge on the topic? Thanks in advanced.
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Hi all, I am in the process of having the windshield and rear window rubber redone in my 53 Cranbrook and when I received the set of rubber seals, the front is a formed rubber, but the rear is by the foot, and seeing that the rear window has 2 almost right angle bends on the bottom, I was hoping to find a formed one piece for the rear too. I have tried Andy Bernbaum, Steele Products, and Atlas Obsolete to no success. Does anyone know a source for these?
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1953 b4b -
OK, the next step on a journey... (thanks Paul) I purchased from an honest type of individual what he considered a "daily Driver". Now that it is here, we have had a chance to rack it and take a look around. We were looking at brakes initially with an eye toward converting to dual-chamber. Then some things caught our eye. Nothing about the last four feet of the frame made sense. The more I looked, the crookeder it got. The more we found, the more dangerous the condition of the vehicle became. I've brought in a professional mechanic (he raised the roof on how it is unsafe and not drivable), two retired mechanics who just laughed (thanks guys), and a professional frame straightener ($cha-ching$) who basically steered me away from even trying to fix this mess directly. I am now at the point where I think I have a few choices. Return the truck for purchase price as it should not be considered a daily driver Straighten what is there ( frame guys says that is pretty hopeless) Buy another '53 frame, splice it onto the back at the cross member just in front of the axle.(cut, splice,align,weld as recommended by the frame specialist) Sue for the cost, plus shipping, plus legal fees and let him have the truck back (not in my nature) Drive it. ( No, I'm not really advocating this) Honestly, I had put a lot of $$ in contingency funding for this build but it was really for paint, interior, rear end changes, disk brakes. I could have it fixed but then I would be where I thought I was three weeks ago with a running vehicle. And I have not started the engine. I open it up to your learned opinions. All comments welcome. You can't hurt my feelings, I'm still laughing at myself. That's healthy right? Mike http://p15-d24.com/gallery/album/232-as-delivered/
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From the album: B4B build info
The last four feet of my frame are severely borked, enough to warrant splicing in a new half from a donor frame. -
I am rebuilding the front axle/brakes/suspension on my 1953 B-4-B. when trying to reinstall the kingpin I noticed that the diameter of the pins in the rebuild kit were a smaller diameter, .795". the original pins measured.875" The company I got the rebuild from seems to think that the smaller diameter is correct. What is weird is that the new bushings and bearing are for the bigger diameter pin. I am confused and any help would be great. Thanks Graham
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I am working replacing the bed on my 1953 Dodge B4C. From what I can tell this bed configuration is different from most of the other years. I am looking for any information anyone might have regard the dimensions of the wood and how the outer pieces are cut and installed. It appears that the two outer piece have a curve which would need to be cut with a Jig saw. I have the bolt Kit and I just want to make sure that I have the correct information before I start cutting and drilling the wood. Any and all information would be greatly appreciated!
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Howdy, Does anybody know if ring and pinion sets are available for early 50's half ton trucks? I have 4:10's in there now but would like to increase them to 3:70 or approx. The reason is to be able to reach highway speed. Any clue as to what the ring gear diameter is?? I've looked into a tranny upgrade too but I don't think overdrives were available on these trucks. Thanks in advance for y'all's help!
