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Showing results for tags '1949'.
Found 19 results
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I found this "Drive Report" article in the "Special Interest Autos" Dec '82 issue, now called "Hemmings Classic Cars" magazine. Looks like the authors put 'er though her paces! Their only suggestion for improvement was "Probably the only thing that would have made the Suburban more useful was the addition of rear doors" 1982 SIA Article P17_P18 Suburbans.pdf
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Hello all, I've been a ghost on this forum ever since June 1st of this year, when I acquired this fairly awesome, well-documented, mildly famous 1949 Dodge Wayfarer: Some members who have read quite a bit on these cars may recognize this car from a certain Mopar reference website. This is the oldest vehicle I have owned (newer notables include a 1967 Dodge Coronet and 1958 Plymouth Belvedere), and therefore came with a new set of challenges for me like 6 volt positive ground electrical systems and the wonderful tapered rear axles, and Fluid Drive. So thank you all for making this forum what it is today. I've gained the info I've needed to get going on this awesome car. As of today, front brakes and master cylinder have been replaced/overhauled, and the rear axle is to be reassembled in the next couple of evenings. She should be safely on the road for a neighborhood cruise-around this Independence Day. Stay tuned for updates. Glad to be a part of this forum. PS - It's a shame to say that this car was actually under a carport within the debris field of a tornado about three years ago, so the driver's side isn't as pretty as the rest of the car. That will be fixed later. It may need a door. You can see so many ripples in the metal around the large bondo spot. The whole door skin just looks "pissed off" for lack of a better way to say it. I feel like I can fix the fender myself. Also - I DID NOT PERFORM the Bondo "repair" you see pictured below. That would have been a PO.
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I have a 1949 Desoto custom. She's got transmission problems. As in it won't stay in 2nd gear. It has the fluid drive tip toe trans. It starts out fine . shifts into second and go's for a while then pops out of gear with a loud clunk. I have taken it into a shop and it looks like the pump is bad and the housing and syncros also the speed blocking ring. Thats what they're telling me. I don't know that much about transmissions. Anyway We are not finding any parts for this trans. Can anyone steer me in a good direction where I might find parts?. Or someone who can machine the extention housing?. Or possibly buy one in good condition? Thanks
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Hi guys. advice required. I'm about ready to pull the motor out of my '49 Dodge wayfarer. The transmission is 3 speed manual with fluid drive. I know I have to separate the engine and trans, before I lift the motor out, but I need to know whether I have to remove the transmission, and leave the fluid coupling/clutch and bell housing on the motor, and then remove that unit after the motor is out ??. If I tried to remove the trans WITH the bell housing/clutch etc, the motor would become unstable because the bell housing casting sits on the rear mounts. Looks like common sense, but any advice welcome. Also, when lifting the motor out, will it be necessary to remove the radiator yoke (mounting panel ?), or, should it clear ? (using an engine hoist, not overhead lifting block and tackle) Regards, BB.
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1949 Plymouth Spec Dlx, have had an intermittent leak for a week. I could see the shine around the bottom of the engine but could not find where it was coming from. First thought it was the fuel pump for various reasons, but the clear liquid did not smell like gas, while checking the oil I just found this clump of yellow crystal-like residue “growing” on the freeze plug. Most likely the source of my leak but what on earth is the build up on the engine?? do I have to pull the engine to replace the plug? more info: I installed a new (modern) 3 core radiator earlier this summer as I was constantly overheating, it solved the problem but my buddy thinks it may be putting too much pressure on the cooling system. Could that be the reason for the leaky freeze plug and the residue?
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New guy with new (to me) '49 Dodge. And a question.
49DodgeClubCoupe posted a topic in P15-D24 Forum
Hello everyone, I discovered this board when I started doing research on the '49 Dodge Coronet that I ended up purchasing. I am new to things pre 1960s-1970s and would sure appreciate any help I can gather. First I'll go over the car 1949 Dodge Coronet Club Coupe. 230 flathead with fluid drive three speed manual. Last registered in 1976 and appears it was used as someone's college transportation. Lots of Mississippi university stickers and a fraternity front plate haha. Car is complete and, to my surprise, we drove it onto the trailer with a coffee can "gas tank" hanging from the hood. Has some rust. Holes in front floor boards etc. but right now I'll just be fixing things to get it running, driving, stopping, etc. Now some stuff about me. I live in the Detroit Metro area and work as an engineer. I grew up with 1960s muscle cars but have grown a little "bored". Fear not, I have no dreams of hemi swaps or front clip conversions etc for this car. It will stay as original as possible. I'll probably even go with some new bias plys. I want to get an experience of how these cars drive. Not how the latest hot rod show thinks it should drive. Now that that's out of the way I have my first question and it's related to doors. I ordered a shop manual from faxon but it hasn't arrived yet. Has anyone experienced sagging doors and what is a good fix? I have to lift the door to shut. Do these have conventional hinge pins? Can't seem to find them online. Also the drivers door does not open from the outside. I suspect a linkage issue. Thanks for any help and I look forward to asking many more questions haha!
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Wow what a great site , I am still trying to work our how it all works , so lets give it a try I am trying to find a replacement UJ for my 1949 B1B pilot house half ton pick up , i need one shipped to the UK , would be great full for any help Craig Rutter -
Hi, I mentioned in a previous post that the vin number on my registration document (UK) had two incorrect digits. I contacted the licensing authority to have it corrected, but they replied saying that the number on my UK document is the same number on the previous owner's Oklahoma (USA) title. The only way it can be corrected is if I provide proof that the number is incorrect, -either from a recognized 'owner's club' official, or, from the manufacturer. Is there anyone connected to this forum that could supply me (for a fee) with an official letterhead that might satisfy the licence departments need ?? One of you guys sent me a pictured list of Dodge serial numbers showing the start and finish numbers for all the model/years. I can forward this to them, but it would carry more weight with an official letter. many thanks, Regards, Billy. By the way, the vin number shown on my reg doc doesn't even fit in with the number sequence for that year, but the actual vin number (on car) does !! Car is a '49 Dodge Wayfarer Business coupe (D29).
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The ol' buggy has been immobile, waiting for a repair on the starter. How boring, just sitting out there in the driveway with nice summer weather. A project was on the list. Why not now? Via the picture, many of you well know this kind of project. I ran out and bought a compressor and spray gun.
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John's 1948/50 Willies Overland Stretch Concept
TrampSteer posted a gallery image in Individual Member Photo Albums
From the album: Sundry items
Photo mock-up of a stretch version for the jeep we got from 48Dodger's brother just before the BBQ.© MPrutz 2016
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File Name: 1949 CHRYSLER INSTRUMENT CLUSTER GASKET File Submitter: rb1949 File Submitted: 07 May 2016 File Category: Instructions, Manuals & Templates This is a PDF template for the one piece paper (fiber) gasket for the 4 gauges and odometer housing that mount to the rear of a 1949 Chrysler Instrument Cluster. I believe 1950 used the same cluster. Made to keep dirt, dust, etc. from getting into the gauges. Cut with a sharp instrument to avoid 'tearing' the material edges. Punch the screw holes slightly lager than the screw. Print the template at 100%. Click here to download this file
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Version PDF
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This is a PDF template for the one piece paper (fiber) gasket for the 4 gauges and odometer housing that mount to the rear of a 1949 Chrysler Instrument Cluster. I believe 1950 used the same cluster. Made to keep dirt, dust, etc. from getting into the gauges. Cut with a sharp instrument to avoid 'tearing' the material edges. Punch the screw holes slightly lager than the screw. Print the template at 100%. -
I've looked everywhere (on the forum and search engines) looking for a correct or even close modern match for the metallic gold paint for 1949-50 Dodge Coronet Gyro-Matic fender script. The original is a satin or flat metallic gold with red "Gyro-Matic" inlay - See photo of a NOS example for reference. I can match the red inlay close enough, but the I haven't been able to find a close match for the satin or flat metallic gold paint. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Looking for help on my 1950 panel. Looking for body parts and hopefully pics of one with good floor braces and door jambs. Needs lots. Any and all help appreciated thanks in advance.
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I have a 49 sedan with a shot strait 6. I want to modernize its ability but not cut it up. ie front discs but stay away from the steering (though i would like a collapsible colum if reasonably doable), i dont know if all the engines in the poll will work and if you select other, please post your engine and i will add it to the poll. ive left off the 5.7 hemi cause it wont fit and the stock strait 6 is a non option.
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Hi everyone! I happened upon this site and forums while researching the 1949 model dodge. We have inherited a 1949 dodge kingsway custom and are starting the process of restoring as close as possible to original. Gladly everything is there, it needs a lot of cleaning up though. Any advice or words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated as well as any information on service providers who can help with seals, interior (which needs to be completely redone), chroming etc. in and around Melbourne Australia. Also, funny little question about blinkers, aka turning signals, I cannot work out if these were original on the car or if they needed to be added aftermarket. Again, and info would be greatly appreciated. Hopefully I will be able to add some photos as the restoration progresses.
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Hey Guys - I've been away from my project for a while, it's crazy weather here in VT too much ice to ski so I'm in the shop. Brake job on 1949 1/2 ton I know I had seen some good posts on this and searched but other than the tech page I really didn't find anytining on it. I have not located the right puller for the rear yet but the fronts aren't a walk in the park either. I pulled the drums, pulled the shoes and the rusted up cyls and tried to move the cam adjusters at the bottom, one is not seated all the way to the shoulder and neither will budge on either side am I missing someting? I backed off the castle nuts and pulled the two backing bolts so it's the backing plate is free wheeling. One of the shorter cam nuts looks stripped and so is the castle nut. I haven't hit it with the hot wrench yet but suspect that will free it up. Looks like these cams are also the bolt that holds on the steering linkage? I know many of you have converted with the rusty hope kit and eventually I would probably go disc but I've already got new shoes for front and will keep her stock for now. Anyone got a bucket of spare front 1/2 ton parts you want to sell a cam bolt or two out of? I'll need a source for wheel cyl, felt washers for behind shoe, and clips too. could use a couple spare lugs too. Any input on freeing up the cam bolts welcome. Thanks !
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After months of searching for a Black 46 - 48 Dodge Club Coupe, we finally found one in MI. Car is all original and does need some TLC. When we got the title from the owner, the title read 1949 Dodge Coupe?? We researched the internet and we could only find the 1949 Dodge Coronet. The seller did include the original registration from when the car was new with a Serial Number that matches whats on the door frame and the Engine Number that matches the Serial Number of the Engine in the car. The car was sold New on January 31st, 1949. The 1949 Title on a 1948 body threw me a curve ball. Does anyone know if this is common? I'm sure you guys are much more knowledgeable than I am, and I appreciate your help.
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Does anyone know where I can find spring bushings for my 1949 Plymouth business Coupe? When I am torqued up and driving the car goes good but when I let off the gas it shimmys like the rearend is moving around. I would like to get polyeurathane bushings if I can but rubber would be fine too. any information would be helpful. Thanks
