tanda62

You might try Andy Bernbaum at oldmoparts.com. look in the cooling section.

Just wondering if the master cylinder push rod should be at an angle like in the picture here or should it be straight. Thanks.

Thanks for the help guys!

I have finally gotten the cab off the chassis on my 53 B4C and am looking for some help in identifying the transmission. The top has the number C-88481 and the date 10-10-52. The sides have the number C-88221 with the date 10-1-52. The gear shift seems to tell me this is a three speed as the pattern goes lower left, upper left, lower right and then a detent to the lower right for reverse I believe. Any help is appreciated!

Thanks for the tip about Nicopp line as it looks to be a great option.

Took the fuel line off my truck and found a pin hole in it after cleaning it up. As an alternative to purchasing steel line, a pipe bender and a flare tool, I was thinking of using flexible hose. Has anyone used PTFE Teflon fuel line with -an fittings? Something like this from amazon - Autobahn88 Stainless Steel Braided PTFE Teflon Fuel Oil Gasoline Brake Line Hose, 10feet, -6AN, Silver.

Found something that may be a bit nit picky while measuring for new wires. On the wiring diagram there is a brown wire going from the ignition to both the light switch and the ammeter. However, when I look at the wiring on my truck the brown wire goes from the ignition to the light switch and then to the ammeter. (see the photo below) The double connect on the wiring diagram is at the ignition while what I found is the double connect on the light switch. Not sure any of this make any difference but I thought it was an interesting difference. I am pretty sure none of these wires have been replaced and looking at the condition and coloring the brown wire certainly looks factory. I think I will follow what I found when remaking the wiring as it worked just fine connected this way for many years.

Gonna spend the day measuring wires in preparation for a complete rewire job and conversion to 12 volts.

One relay would work but some of the sites about relays advise one for low and one for high to maximize the benefit. I am open to any thoughts on the subject.

So I have decided to switch my 53 B4C over to 12 volts. Here is a wiring diagram I plan to follow when redoing the harness. This assumes a one wire alternator, changing the heater motor to a 12 volt motor, change the horn to 12 volts, and add relays for the fog lights and one each for the high and low beams. Also switching the wiring on the Ammeter and the coil (a 12 volt coil with PerTronix ignition. Also a blade style fuse box. Anyone see anything I missed? Thanks in advance for your help and if this looks good maybe it could help others make the switch to 12 volts.

Thanks for the link looks like some good options.

Thanks for the diagram and pictures desotodav. They look like what I was hoping to find.

Here are some pictures of the fuel tank installation someone did in my 53 B4C 116. As you can see this is a tank from Tanks Inc. but the mounting someone did was...inventive. The Tanks website has some instruction for using this tank in a 53 but I was wondering if anyone has made the brackets to mount this style of tank and could share the dimensions and such. Or does anyone know a manufacture who makes brackets for this setup. I know I can fabricate the brackets myself but why reinvent the wheel when someone else may have done it already. Any advise is welcome - thanks in advance. Tom

Thanks Don, I will check it out!

This is a picture of the electric motor I took out of a 53 B4C for the heater. The Heater case has a face plate for a Type 75 and I know the truck should have a Type 65. The motor however seems to run at the correct speed on 6 volts and really hauls when connected to 12 volts. So my question is does anyone recognized the numbers on this motor? Also has anyone used the motor sold by vintage power wagons, page 43 of the online catalog? Is there a source for a 12 volt motor? Thanks for any help

So over the past few months I have been taking apart the truck (pics before and after along with the wiring) and owe many thanks to many people on this forum for tips on how to take some of the trickier parts apart. The temp gauge in particular, disconnecting it from the engine rather than the back of the gauge. Just wondering if anyone else when taking their truck apart thought about the people who assembled your truck in the first place? As I was pulling wires out of the dash, I pictured in my mind someone installing these wires back in 53. Guess I just had that feeling of nostalgia that comes with working on an old truck.

Thanks JBNeal, I actually used that diagram and found it very helpful in setting up the turn signals!

I am getting ready to completely rewire my 1953 B4C 116 staying with the stock 6 volt positive ground system. The factory manual wiring diagram is good but is missing some things on my truck - Windshield wipers, turn signals, heater, fog lights, electric fuel pump and fuse box. I have added them into the diagram and am wondering if anything looks out of whack or could be improved. I was thinking of using a blade style fuse box with 30amp fuses. Thanks for taking the time to look this over, I have included a PDF file and a JPG file. Oh and by the way I did this in Powerpoint and yes it took some precise mouse movement Dodge Truck wiring diagram.pdf

Here is an update so far. The GM socket is too large to fit in the tail light unless you cut off the plastic tabs and that seems rather silly. I am going to get the pictured sockets (same as I pulled out of the tail lights) which are available at my local Auto zone and use liquid electrical tape to weatherproof them as best I can along with some paint. While the 1154 bulbs fit this socket here is a link to some bulbs claiming to be brighter and still six volt - might give them a try. http://store.candlepower.com/newca6v11sub.html Thanks for your replies. The parking lights are another story. Anyone have a source for the reflector and socket part of the lights? I see plenty of lenses and chrome bezels but not the reflector and socket. And finding a 4 1/4 inch replacement is proving difficult as most new ones seem to be either 4 or 5 inches. If I cannot find a replacement then I will clean these up best I can and use them.

After taking apart my parking and tail lights I have found that some else has been here before and made some interesting changes. To accommodate the turn signal additional wires were added and the sockets were switched. These sockets have long since rusted and in the case of the tail lights were so bad they came apart into the pieces you see here. So here is my question after searching the forums and not finding an answer (maybe my search skills are subpar). Sticking with a six volt system could I use a GM 8912698 plastic socket with bulb number 1154 to replace both the parking and tail lights? Has anyone done this? Is there a better solution? Thanks for any help.

Thanks for the information. I figured it was a dealer add on as the truck started life in the northwoods of Wisconsin. Now the truck is in Florida so not so much of a need. I had a victory today as well. Installed new spark plug wires and got the truck to start. Ran smoothly without any leaks but this also showed me there are some electrical issues as the headlights and taillights would not come on. The wiring needs some attention as most of it is original. Anyway, happy day to actually have the truck run for the first time.

So I am starting to tear down and repair my new to me 1953 B4C 116 and came across this engine block heater. I am wondering if it is a stock piece or something added to the truck later in life. Since there are only 30k original miles it is sometimes hard to tell if something has been added or not. Thanks for any help.

Thanks everyone for the help. BTW this truck has 30,700 original miles on it but has been mostly sitting for the better part of ten years. Looking forward to getting it back on the road and while not a daily driver probably a once a week driver.

One more picture

Here are some other pictures of the truck - it looks good from 20ft