Bob Riding

I just finished reading this month's "Hemmings Classis Car" magazine article on Kay and Harold Norton's P19 Deluxe 2-dr sedan. Great article. It said that "1950 Plymouths used front coils with different rates on the right and left sides...because Plymouth engineers realized that highways in the eastern US and Canada were more steeply crowned than those in the West and that a Plymouth built in Evansville Indiana would have slightly stiffer coil springs on the right front than one built in San Leandro CA, to compensate for the more severe camber it might be facing." Just yesterday I was removing the springs and front suspension on my P10 wagon to get it ready for sandblasting, and found that the left front (drivers side) spring had a spacer (looks like a huge washer) , but the left didn't. This wagon was built in LA in 1939, and lived out it's days on a Turkey Ranch in Tonapah Nevada. I'm pretty sure the front end hasn't been apart for at least 40 years, so what gives? Bob

Hey Jim; Are you going to use nails on the raised floor/deck behind the second seat? You know, the part that looks like it would made a nice raft? Jim Dugue did his to stay authentic...if you are, what kind of nails would you use? Bob

Tim; I assumed mine was the Suburban, based partly on the name script on each side (I am looking for a replacement...one side says only "Subu" ) If your guy ever come through on the ws, I'm interested. thanks Bob

Thanks Jim; I think I have the courage to tackle it now...I think the California Zin I just opened is partly to blame too. How's your front clip coming along? Bob

Tim; I too am the owner of a '51 Suburban Savoy (the less expensive model) Maybe we can find someone to make us up some split rear lift-gates? I think they are cool too... Also I need a tailight, and various small stuff. Have you found anyone that sells the rubber for side or back window glass? (or windshield ws for that matter?) Thanks Bob

Great looking ride. Thanks for the info. I will get it done - I'm not in any rush. Bob

Thanks Rodney, Mine is more rusted than that...I will need to take it all apart Bob

Hi Phil; I was sorry to leave the ranks of '40 Dodge owners, but really needed to sell it in order to devote my full attention to the woodie. When you replaced the control arm, did you use any special tools? Also how do you know if your springs needed replacing? Thanks Bob

I live near Fresno and don't know about the 10,000 car figure, but the best source for old iron (both cars and parts) is Turners Auto wrecking south of town. here's the link http://www.turnersautowrecking.com/ Have fun! Bob

Ok you '40 Plymouth experts/owners - Rodney Bullock, Jim Yergin , Don C, Charlie, Lou, and probably many others, I'm about to tear into the front end of my '40 Plymouth wagon, and never having done this before, I'm feeling a little apprehensive about getting it put back together correctly. I've been re-reading old threads, such as PatS's post in the Technical Archives section on "Home Made Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushing Installation Tool" My questions: * How much of the existing control arms, steering knuckles, king pins, tie rod ends, etc. can be cleaned, painted and reused? Mine has only surface rust, no visible damage. * Can I just order the bushings and rubber from Roberts, Kanter, etc, or is it advisable to buy their whole front end kits? (pretty expensive, but if necessary, then OK) * Do the '40 Plymouths need the same type of spreading tool like PatS created or is there a different process? 1940 Plymouth front ends seem to be different from all other years. * Billy Austin had a teflon coating put on shafts and pins and polished the internal threads on the bushings (p15d24 Forum Nov '05). Is this necessary/desirable? (see his attached pic) * Any suggestions on where to buy new shocks? This car will be basically stock with some safety improvements (front disk brakes, dual m/c, Coker 16" radials, turn signals, etc) I am not planning on racing it! How fast do you want to go in a car made out of toothpicks anyway? I would just like it to ride as it was when new. Any and all advice appreciated! Thanks Bob

Hey Don; Great picture of my "now famous" 40 Dodge. Did you see it made it on the cover of the Old Cars 2008 Calendar? Too bad it's not mine anymore. The gentleman from Alaska now holds that honor. Bob

James; I just got an '51 NOS emblem from Neil Riddle (SeaPlym) off e bay.It wasn't cheap, but it is flawless. As for the letters, I'm looking too. Maybe we can get a group discount? Bob

Mine is the Concord, which is the base model - hence no horn ring...mystery solved! Thanks

I saw a horn ring for sale on e pay that is supposed to fit '51-'53 Plymouths. My '51 Suburban (Concord, not Savoy) does not even have one and I believe the car has been unmolested. Is there a source showing the different interior options of these early '50's models? Thanks Bob

Yes, but I haven't installed it yet

Rodney; I sent George my p10 tranny a couple of years ago. He went through it to make sure it was servicable and added the OD. I think the bill was $1,500. Bob Riding

Ken; Thanks for the info. I am just picking it up tomorrow. It is in Chowchilla (north of Fresno). I will be keeping it for a while - if you are still interested in the Spring, let me know. Bob

Hi Don; He made it to Seattle, then put it on a ferry to Anchorage. When he retrieved it, He started driving it home and found he had no brakes in the first intersection! They had crimped the lines when they tied it down on the ferry. He seems to be happy with it...BTW, have you ordered your 2008 Old Cars Calender, with my old Dodge on the cover??? Figures I would make the calender just after I sold it! Bob

Thanks for the info...it looks like the body sheet metal is the same since '49?

I have a 49 B2B Pilothouse truck with the stock 230. It runs well, and I was thinking about using it in my '40 P10 wagon, then use the bigger motor in the B2B. I looked under the hood of the B2B yesterday and there seems to be enough room, if you reverse the radiator mounting bracket. Bob

I just found a 1951 Suburban for sale with 27,000 original miles - surface rust, but everything seems to be there. Does not run. It's been in storage for 20 years. The owner wants $2,500, for which he'll throw in a newly rebuilt Dodge 236 straight six from a 1.5 ton Pilothouse pickup, and 4 extra wheels and tires. Seems like a no lose scenario, since I need the engine and don't want to see the wagon street-rodded. Any experience with these pre-finned wagons? I like the style, and have the room to store it, but I can't seem to find much on parts and history (other than the "Standard Catalog of Chrysler 1914-2000") Thanks Bob

Dodge did a major revamp in '48 with the Pilothouse series. I wonder if they are that different from the power wagons?

In pieces and parts

Tony; So I guess that is the deciding factor. Thanks

Kevin; Are you running the 236 in your 1.5 ton Dodge? Thanks Bob