Fastback50

Try it now JC....I just started using Photobucket and they were posting properly last night. Let me know if the link doesn't work.

10-4, I'll get it. Thanks

Great, then maybe I have a donor parts motor....what is the easiest way to tell them apart?

Looking good--contemplating a 360 myself so will be interested in your progress. Currently getting the 218 running first lol.

Thanks Reg! So that's a 201 then right? I'm thinking of going back for some more parts including that grill later this week. Who knows what my next project will need...

Was at the yard and found a water neck for my 218 (although it's slightly different and has an angle to it). While I was at it I also found a car with a decent grill and maybe a salvageable motor....can't tell what the car is or if it's a 201 or 218....the block had an A stamped on it if that helps anyone. Think the water neck will work/seal? I'm thinking I have to give it a try after soaking it in vinegar/wire wheeling/paint job.... http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h62/jxc330/1950 Plymouth Deluxe/IMG_0414_zpsad0kzj90.jpg http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h62/jxc330/1950 Plymouth Deluxe/IMG_0415_zps2wnyxlwj.jpg http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h62/jxc330/1950 Plymouth Deluxe/IMG_0421_zpssf1kcrl2.jpg

Not a fan of Philadelphia Plymouthy? I had to research this to find out what "P" stood for haha....you had me worried that something was wrong for a minute

Okay all, so I got busy this afternoon and grabbed a bottoming tap (which Knuckle, as far as I can tell, is the same as a thread chaser) and cleaned up all the threads using 3 in 1 oil, followed by PB, a bore brush, compressed air, a magnet, and one final blast of air. My "gauge" was when I could thread my new head bolts all the way in by hand with little to no resistance. And yes, many of the bolt holes thread into the water jacket, which is why I didn't use the vinegar--I wouldn't have had enough and didn't want another trip to the store. Anyway, it seems to have worked well, and while all my bolts were threaded in I cleaned more carbon off the deck, painted the head with VHT, and drained the oil and radiator. Tomorrow the head with new gasket and bolts goes back on and with any luck I can get this beauty running...fingers crossed.

Haha if it makes you feel any better I'm only at a "1", or "neutral" it says. I'd never noticed this before now--hope I don't develop a complex

Knuckle you've come to my rescue once again--thanks. I'll do these things--was hoping to get my head put on and see if I couldn't get her running tonight, but looks like I have a bit more homework to do. That's okay, I bought some VHT paint for the head so I guess I can take care of that while the vinegar works it's magic. Headed to the store for some dowel....

Hey guys, I am ready to put my head on after getting a valve unstuck but am running into a problem. When chasing the threads my 7/16-14 tap is VERY tight after about 4-5 threads, to the point I stopped and didn't go any further because it felt like I would be removing steel rather than rust/debris. Is 7/16-14 the right size? Am I doing something wrong? I'm using 3 in 1 oil and drenching the threads and tap beforehand, and started, then backed off, repeat, but can't get further than the first four or five threads. Also, I bought Pioneer bolts, but noticed they have less threading than the stock bolts--did anyone else notice this when they did theirs or did Pioneer change something? I only wonder because it looks like it would be real close in terms of having enough thread to get proper torque specs. Thanks all.

Great--good luck! Looking forward to seeing the photos.

Casper--your progress is very encouraging, keep up the good work! I was looking at pics of when you removed your cylinder head and am wondering what you used to get the deck and valve tops so clean? Thanks.

Glad to help Ronnie--it's the least I can do after all the help I've had from others on this site Like I said, feel free to PM me if you need more precise pics.

Here are some photos I INADVERTENTLY took of the underside of the rocker panels while trying to assess the massive amounts of rust damage under my car. Surprisingly my rockers are somewhat solid, it's the floor braces and outer braces (correct term?) that are toasted on mine. Anyway, if you need me to take GOOD photos let me know, I've got some time tonight and could get whatever angles you need

Hey thanks!!

Thanks Shel-- I was able to get the stuck valve free today, but despite working it up and down for quite a while and very liberal use of PB and ATF, it is still not wanting to move freely on its own. I figured I will just let it sit another day or two, and maybe time will sort things out. That being said, I'm not too confident that it's going to be that easy and am going to buy the tools I will need to remove and clean the valves, deck, head, and valve guides. From what I have read I will need a valve lifter tool, the lapping tool, some lapping compound, some brass brushes, and a brass pipe-cleaner/reamer for the valve guides. Any suggestions on the valve reaming tool? Somebody correct me if I'm missing something on what tools I need. Right now the head is soaking in a full strength combination of Purple Power and Simple Green to break down all the carbon deposits. Can I use a Scotch Brite and some carb cleaner on the deck surface or is there a better combination for that job. The more I get into this and learn/build confidence, the more tempting it is to just pull the whole motor lol.

Hmm yeah, I was wondering how I link the two. Should I just take it down and tack it on to the old post or...? I did do a search before I posted on removing carbon buildup etc. but didn't find much.

Hey all-- I got the head removed today and found the stuck valve. I soaked it in ATF and turned the motor to see if anything else was stuck and found no other issues. I think my plan at this point is to get the valve unstuck and to put it back together so I can work on getting it rolling. Let me know if this is a horrible idea lol. Before I do that, I would like to know what to use for cleaning all the old carbon and gunk off the piston tops, valves, and top of the engine block/underside of the head. I'd like to at least put it back together cleaner than what it was. I'm also deciding on whether or not to lap the valves. Pointers/ideas?

Excellent info Ed, I was wondering if I could take it off, get the valve unstuck, reattach the head and work out other issues. Later, I could revisit lapping valves, etc. What procedures did you use to unstick your valves?

Ouch. Okay. On one hand I'm excited to take the head, on the other bummed because I know it will be more time, and probably $$ lol. That said, lapping valves is something I've never done and it doesn't look too bad. I DO have my service manual, and want to say it gives pretty good instruction on head removal, including bolt torque sequence.

Okay that makes sense. So now I know it's still dry as a bone and frozen up good. The plot thickens haha.

Well I figured out that the valve I was actually tapping on was the wrong one. The valve that is stuck is inaccessible from the top side of the motor (without taking the cylinder head off). I got a pry bar in the spring from the underside and attempted to gently move it that way, but no dice. I'm now wondering if any of the ATF I put in plug hole #4 got to that valve at all (I'm not sure if they are in separate "compartments" under the cylinder head or not). I'm wondering if torch heat or taking the entire head off are my only two options?