Fastback50

So you think the MC's ability to generate any pressure at all is due to me not bleeding it before I cracked open a bleeder on the lines?

Thanks Tim. So I need a 2 lb. in line residual for the front, and 10 lb. for the rear as long as I stick with rear drum. Right now, I have the rear circuit of the MC plugged until I get the lines replaced , which I will hopefully get to in a week or two. Still wondering why all the fluid sat in the top of the MC? Judging by the diagram in the service manual, the MC should still push fluid even without the residual valve installed. I'll take it apart and see if something is not as it should be.

No....was thinking I could just run without one for the time being until I upgraded to dual MC and/or boosted dual MC. Still shopping around to see what is easiest/best and wanted to be able to run off old MC until then. Does it need the 10 and 2 to work until I find a replacement?

Hi guys, I've just completed my Scarebird front disk conversion and had removed what the residual valve assembly in the MC. When I say valve assembly, I mean I removed the little metal piece with holes (sort of looks like a salt-shaker top), AND a rubber grommet or gasket that sits behind it. I filled the topside of the MC and was going to bleed the brakes and had no pressure at the pedal....I pumped it up quite a bit with no results and the pedal continuing to just feel loose. When I opened the top of the MC again, I saw that no fluid had gone into the lower portion of the MC. Now this MC worked prior to doing this, so I'm just wondering: Did I remove one too many pieces thinking they were both part of the residual?? Otherwise, what else could have gone wrong? The spring did come out but I was able to put that and piece behind it back into place as they should be. Any ideas? Thanks.

Thanks fellas--ended up doing almost exactly what Knuckle suggested I'll check out that truck forum as well just in case.

Brilliant set up Andy! The battery box really fits right in without standing out.

Hmm I actually like that idea Bizz, that's got to be costly for 00 battery cables though...would be cheaper if I went 12 volt but trying to stay with original for now. Will consider the idea though as I agree it would really clean up under the hood.

Doh! Thanks Eneto, I should have thought of that since I did valve work only last year

I agree and for the most part won't be driving it, but am ALMOST done with my Scarebird front disc conversion, and really sort of need to drive it to dial it and, and hopefully for some satisfaction Also, it would be convenient to be able to move it in and out of the garage, and to drive it to a buddies place (on dry winter roads) who has a lift for ongoing rust repairs. If it's too big of a pain, then I'll just have to put them back on and take them off for access when needed.

Okay odd question, but has anyone ever found a good location for the battery/starting solenoid so that the car can be driven while work is done with inner/outer fenders off? I still need wiring work, engine/frame cleaning and painting, and a few other things done while I have the fenders off and it is SO much easier to work in the engine bay with these things gone. What's the best way or best location for the battery and solenoid? Right now I have the inner and outer fender removed on the driver's side, and the lower half of the inner fender removed on the passenger side. I notice the passenger side inner is a two-piece, and the driver's side inner fender is a one-piece. Is this the same on all 50 Plymouth's? Anybody think taking all the fenders off at once to allow easy access to the engine bay is a bad idea? i think I'm legal to drive it this way in MI as long as I have the bumper still on lol.

All great information guys---Ithanks! 'm going to do some research on how to do a proper rebuild and work on pulling the original out this weekend. I've heard it can be a bit tricky to remove.

I had a stuck valve once as well and while I had the head off I picked up a grill brush with wire bristles on one side and a scraper on the other and went to town on cleaning the deck and piston tops. I tried a variety of products including Seafoam until the deck was free of all hard carbon deposits. Just make sure to keep the cylinders and valves lubed while you do this. You can also have your head milled for some added performance, probably for under $200. I also replaced my head bolts which you may want to do depending on their condition. There are some made for a GM application that I used that were reasonable in price (unlike ARP). If you search the threads here you can find the part number. Lastly, it’s a nice time to give the head a new paint job

Disregard—found it

Does the mc have to be removed to take that valve out? I’ve heard it can be a trick to get the mc out...

Great—I’ll add this setup to my list of possible improved setups. I’m with you on the safety piece, but may limp by with the original mc for a bit. Thanks!

Have you removed the internal residual or are you just going to use it as is and see how it goes? I’ll be interested in seeing how it works out.

Hi guys, I'm close to finishing the installation of my Scarebird front disc kit, and while was thinking of trying to use the original MC (if possible) while I save for one of these three setups: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Under-Dash-Brake-Pedal-Assembly-Single-Diaphragm,45466.html https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Brake-Pedal-7-Inch-Power-Booster-1-Inch-Master-Cylinder-Unit,74286.html https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Stainless-Sleeved-Brake-Pedal-Assembly,68688.html As for using the original MC, I know there is an internal MC that may need to be removed for it to work, but I'm not sure if that's necessary or not. The tough decision on the updated MC is mounting style, ease of installation, and whether power booster is worth it. I would really like to get the car as close to modern braking abilities based on the way some folks with modern cars drive these days. Anybody use one of these set-ups on a similar model with the angled firewall? Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

@DJ194950: Thanks DJ--I may look into that too.

I do about a 12 inch area then scrape, repeat. Final removal is with the grinder and wire wheel but I don't think that produces much heat....but yeah the heat is something to pay attention to.

@Los_Control: Haha love the flame thrower! I have my service manual which give the complete wiring harness including colors and gauges, I am just trying to keep it simple, especially since it shows two different gauge wires going to something like a headlamp (not that I doubt the engineering abilities of the guys at Plymouth

@Plymouthy Adams: Yeah that sounds right Tim, plus I don't want any paint bonding issues. So far scrape, torch, scrape while hot, then wire wheel anything left over seems to be the way. Thanks.

@Los_Control: That wiring looks like a good deal--if 14 cannot handle 6v though I may go for 12...I'm looking for the happy medium that would handle 6v now and 12v if I convert later, but I'm not sure if that exists and i don't want any risk of fire due to under-doing it on my wiring. Will 14ga handle 6 OR 12v?

@Plymouthy Adams: I agree, though some of this undercoating has deteriorated to the point of becoming brittle/flakey, then after a few inches reverting back to bonded/flexible material. I guess I'll stick with the scraper/torch method for now, tedious as it is

By the way--I'm thinking of purchasing a needle scaler on that "tar type" undercoating....anyone ever used this? I've been using a torch and scraper as I believe I read that Plymouthy had used this method, but wondering if a needle scaler would be quicker?

Thanks for the input--it cut nice and clean tonight, and three bolts later it was off the car: http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jxc330/media/IMG_0935_zpslsxgrbil.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1 What a difference to be able to get into the engine bay with such ease. I'll have to figure out a temporary solution for the battery/starting solenoid so that I can test the electrical out while working on it. I'm thinking of going just all 12 or 14 gauge....I know that's not "restoration" proper, but this car is going to be driver, and that's it. I want it to function properly and look decent. Thoughts on 12 or 14? I don't think I would need to use 10 or something that large, and I'm still contemplating 12v conversion anyway. Someone please let me know if that pic doesn't load...I'm switching to the Photobucket method because the size restrictions on here were requiring me to downsize every photo I took before loading which was time consuming.