n1gzd_plymouth

thanks. for sure it is not 1/2. It is much larger. Thanks for the tip. Rebecca

Hi, Strange question. Due to circumstances beyond my control (not my fault) my 36 Plymouth diff carrier fill plug is missing. Anyone have the spec for that. I would bet that I can find one if I know what the size and thread is. The car is far away from me at the moment (can't just go measure it). Does anyone know? Also do many year cars have the same size? (possibly I can do a different kind of search). thanks, Rebecca

other than repeated investigation I have been unable to figure out where this leak is coming from. I can see no oil above the cross member (on either side). Is dripping from the cross member (left side of car). Hopefully when I finally start it up for the spring I an see if it is a real leak (vs some oil that had pooled somewhere from before and is finally pouring out).

I did get a chance to go for a real drive. snow and salt arrived just about when we got it done. I can't wait. Also I can't wait to start working on my new one (the 39). Rebecca

we tried some modern seals and had no luck. will try again in the spring. I have not driven the car with the new engine. Got it done just about then the salt and snow arrived. snug as a bug now. I did just notice an oil leak under the firewall on the left side. I have not investigated but I am wondering if it is leaking line from oil filter hosing. will investigate soon. Rebecca

thanks. I agree and will try one. I had an experience with a Buick where the tank looked good but the filler neck part was not identical and had to do a hack. I hope that this one is identical so that it is just a swap. Rebecca

Are these MoparPro replacement fuel tanks ok (drop in works, no fitment or quality issues)? http://www.moparpro.com/new-reproduction-fuel-tanks/ I am thinking of getting one for my 39 coupe rather than clean up the original one (which has bad gas in it). thanks, Rebecca

diff housing seal. we think corrosion is preventing the new seal from sealing (old seal matched the corrosion). will revisit in spring. Rebecca

My engine is rebuilt and back in the car. Car runs and drives. Main issue to resolve now is rear end leak (new after changing seals - worse with new seals). Rebecca

Right. Will not use rubber. Rebecca

peak torque just under 200 ft-lbs, and peak HP about 100. Is very fine for this street toy.

I guess I can't show the other side because of the 3M limit.

Hi, An update. I have sorted out the parts issues (after determining that military surplus for M37 is helpful). My engine is now ready. I will attempt to post a few pics. It is not in the car yet. Please no comments about the color. I did not want a silver engine. I previously painted it black (which was cool) but I decided that this time a lighter color would be more practical. No bling on it yet (do that later). Rebecca

that one looks very nice but I have now already found one. Thanks very much for the response though. Rebecca

I think that I found one. I will report back after confirming. Rebecca

I think that this one looks good: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-M37-WC-3-4-1-1-2-TON-ENGINE-OIL-PAN-NEW-N-O-S/192563032792?hash=item2cd5a6b2d8:g:1VcAAOSwxUtbGz0Z:sc:USPSPriorityMailSmallFlatRateBox!94043!US!-1 looks like rear sump (unlike the first one that I found). I think that an M37 has a 230. Rebecca

I am interested. can you PM me. Do you have a pickup that looks like the one in my photo as well? My understanding is that mine has pinholes. yes I need a pan for rear sump. Rebecca

My family had no Mopar products and I never owned one until 2000. My first Mopar (and the first one that I ever drove) was my 1958 Desoto Firesweep which I still have. My most recent Mopar experience was in fact driving that same car last weekend. Rebecca

what engine does that have (is it compatible with a 230)? Does it have a clean oil pick up to? is the engine bad? (why do you want to separate the oil pan from it)? Rebecca

talked to them today. some pitting corrosion. He wants me to find an NOS one. Rebecca

I was told that there were corrosion but I did not actually talk to the engine mechanic myself (possibly not possible until friday). I guess I will just start looking without knowing if what I find is correct. It needs to fit the car too. Rebecca

I don't have the details. something just occurred to me. It it possible that my oil pan was from the 1936? I may need to visit the shop and confirm that they want one that is identical to what I have (without corrosion). I don't have a photo of the oil pan but attached is the engine after the oil pan was removed. You can see the pickup. The pickup appears to be mid to rear. This is the pickup that was rejected (does not look terrible in this photo but it is not a great photo). Can you tell which style of oil pan this must go with? Also can you rule out the 1936 oil pan? I may need to get the shop to send some photos as I do not have it in my possession now. Rebecca