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Posts
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16 GoodProfile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Lakewood Ranch FL
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Interests
Cars, Bikes, Guns, Poker
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My Project Cars
1947 Dodge WD-15
1957 Chevy Nomad Factory FI car
1978 HD Super Glide
1988 HD FLT 3 Cylinder Turbo Diesel
Contact Methods
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Biography
Trying to keep these rolling art on the road
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Occupation
CEO Medical Group
Recent Profile Visitors
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I need some info on a new project 1955 Dodge Town Panel. I am looking for the model number, I think it is C-3-B but not sure. Anyone know the color combinations offered on this year town panels? it is in Primer and I want to paint it back to a factory color.
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My 1948 Wd-15 is off to the next adventure in Germany. I was offered a very good price for the truck and was eager to start a new project. I have already found the next project a 1955 dodge town panel. It was fun while I had her. I still have a bunch of engine parts laying around. I will put them up on the for sale page soon.
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It all looks to be there. That is the way to go. It has everything including the push peddle and fork for the starter, emergency brake linkage, oil lines and canister. If you just buy a motor and trans you will spend a fortune buying all the little parts. As a matter of fact if the motor is bad all the linkages and parts are worth more then what he is asking.
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I was able to press the bearings in with the vice on the yoke and shaft, however I need to install these with the trans and rear end in the truck, so I guess I will just use a large C clamp for those. JB, I got excited and did not take pictures before attempting the install. I ruined the thin caps that hold the needles on two of the crosses. When I get the replacements I will take some pics.
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So I got my ujoints, anyone have some tricks for pressing these into the yoke, transmission shaft end, drive shaft end and rear end. My 1947 WD-15 has the type, whithout end caps to place the u joint and then bolt the end caps around it. Mine has the complete holes that the ujoint caps need to be pushed into then plates are bolted across the end of the ujoint to keep them in there. Trying to press them in has collapsed two of the needle berring caps at the end of the ujoint cups.
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That's smart to do it with the u-joints and transfer shafts. I will definitely find a shop that can do it.
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I was thinking the same thing. Is it something you can do at home? or does it need to go to a shop for that?
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Sure thing. UJ 538 http://dodgecentralmi.biz/ocart/mechanical/Universal
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After I posted, I was able to find them at Detroit Trucks. Good customer service....
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I am trying to Isolate a vibration at high speed and someone I trust more than me, said it is probably the u joint(s). He said if I replace one I should replace both (sounds logical). My problem is I do not know where to get them from. Vintage has them, but three different types. Does anyone know where I can get the correct u joints for a 1947 WD-15 Cross and roller type held in with lock plates?
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fuel flowing back down to the pump when sitting for a while
finmad replied to finmad's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
So then the evaporation theory sounds logical. I was wondering why the bowls would be empty since the fuel line is up high on the carb. If it is normal, then I guess I will live with it. -
Can you guys give me some advice on this? When my truck sits over night, the fuel flows back down to the pump and upon start up, I have to run the starter for a while to get the fuel pump to push enough fuel up to the carb for it to start. I don't believe this is normal, does it indicate a bad fuel pump or a check ball not working in the carb or???
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I used a light coat of windshield sealer just to hold it down tight, then I put a piece of saran wrap over it (incase any sealer pusses out) and pulled the cowl vent down super tight to lock it in place while the sealer dries.
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just got a cowl vent seal for my 47, I don't want to put it in wrong. one side is flat with a little lip and the other side has rounded edges. which side goes up?