Olddaddy

Plymouth used the smallest spindle/brake combo. Dodge, Chrysler, and DeSoto shared a larger combo, and the very big Chrysler and DeSoto wagons and limousines had the largest setup. I can, and have converted all of them from the very early 30s to late 50s and trucks up into the 60s. The larger Chryslers and DeSoto's have a bastard sized spindle that has to be machined to get standard wheel bearings to fit. Other than that all of the cars and trucks can be converted using mostly the same parts interchangeably.

I started making a bolt-on dual exhaust, a second dump a few weeks ago. I now have them for the small 218/230 engines and the larger 251/265 engines. They bolt on using the four bolts that hold the two manifolds together. You drill a hole with a hole saw right through the bottom of the exhaust. I am selling the two laser cut plates and a gasket as a diy kit for $65. A welded up version like the attached pics is $100, postage included in both cases. I think this is a good affordable solution compared to tube headers, or the old style brazed up dual exhausts I make. I still make them too, but it's getting to be very hard to find broken exhaust to salvage the dumps from. I like the looks of the old style a lot better, but both ways double the exhaust rate which in my case is the goal.

Scotty, Scruffy, anybody....I'm looking for a broken exhaust manifold. I need the dump off of one to finish up a set of dual exhausts. If one of you, or anybody else has a broken exhaust, please get in touch, olddaddy@rustyhope.com.

This is a modified Jim Dandy which was the little brother to the Power King tractors made in Wisconsin. I made the dual adapters, widened the front axle and added a second transmission. I used to have every implement made for them, but now I just use it to mow and move the Non-Ops around the yard. The one pic is when I bought it, the other is when I finished the rebuild.

I used to work in a Marina in Maine where these engines were quite common. They were magnificent! The beauty of the ones in Maine was that they saw very little use in a short boating season, had great care, and looked new in many cases. In fact, even the ones in workboats that had hard lives all through the year still had life in them. And they were quite often attached to some very loverly woodwork in the form of Chris Craft, Garvey, Atkins, Garwood, etcetc. There ought to be a marine engine calendar out there somewhere!

There are a couple of possible problems using that kit on your truck. Although the caliper brackets are similar, the spindle diameters can be different. The 36 can be 1.189 or 1.25. You 55 Dodge truck will be 1.375. The other issue if it is a Plydo or similar is it will be designed to use a Chevy rotor, which is not a problem unless you plan to run original or Mopar pattern rims. One last thing, some of those early kits were actually cut by hand with a torch using a pattern. Mine are laser cut which gives a tighter tolerance on the surface where the caliper rides against the bracket. They look nicer too ! PS, my kit pricing is $175 including shipping to lower 48 US addresses.

I know this belongs on the sale page, but more folks look at the forum. 1950 Plymouth Suburban Wagon 1. Originally purchased in 1996. 2. All new floors, and full length rockers. There is no rot or rust in this car anywhere. 3. Completely rebuilt suspension. Rear springs taken apart, blasted and repainted/re-assembled with new bushings and hardware. Front end completely rebuilt with nos tie rod ends, idler arm, drag link, upright inserts, king pins, all new rubber stops, bushings and bumpers etc. Steering box professionally rebuilt. Disc brakes installed. MBM Brakes underfloor bracket, pedals, booster and master cylinder included. Lowered 2”. 4. Rear end is a Mopar B-body 8 ¾ professionally rebuilt, 3:23 gear, sealed bearings, disc brake brackets installed. 5. Lizard Skin Ceramic Sound and Heat insulation on every interior surface, roof, doors, quarter panels, floors, inner and outer firewall, under hood, inside fenders. 6. Every part for the car except body shell painted with PPG Base/clear. Hood, fenders, tailgate, liftgate, visor, splash apron, dash, garnish moldings, all the small bits and pieces. All materials to complete paint job are included. 7. Sliding side windows replaced with fixed glass and new rubber for all side windows is included. 8. Door hinges are all nos, with no sag. 9. NOS bumpers, front and rear both re-chromed. All trim that was bought nos and re-chromed. All original chromed items and pot metal restored and re-chromed. 10. New custom made 20 gal aluminum gas tank 11. Front fender seams welded and filled and 49 parking lights cut in. Rear fenders are nos with a gas door cut into the driver’s side fender. 12. Four complete 50 model grilles with enough good pieces to make up at least one, or possibly two complete grilles. 13. NOS gauges including speedo, oil, temp, fuel, amp 14. New wiring harness 15. Restored original radio, converted to AM/FM with ipod/mp3 input 16. Original Plymouth brand visor 17. NOS Plymouth hood badges (2), NOS Plymouth Dash Badge, NOS tail lenses and signal lenses, NOS Suburban script nameplates. 18. Custom Aluminum radiator. 19. Original Plymouth 218 flathead six, rebuilt with 230 crank and rods, bored .030 over, .060 shaved head, .010 shaved block, ALL new parts including pistons, rings, stainless valves, adjusters, bearings, seals, oil pump, timing set, cam, water pump, and all moving parts balanced. Original Mopar 2bbl carb intake with both Stromberg and Edelbrock carbs. Dual exhaust manifold. Engine painted original silver. All engine external bits and brackets powdercoated black. Converted Slant/6 electronic ignition distributor and wiring harness included. New motor mounts included. 20. Original Mopar automatic transmission adapter with short shaft 727 included. 21. Virtually every rubber grommet, gasket, bushing, or backing piece is included, both the ones fitting all 50 Plymouths and all the specialized ones for Suburban Wagons. 22. New Wheel Vintiques 15” hotrod rallyes with baby moons included, painted PPG Base/Clear white. 23. Many, many spares included, doubles and triples of some items. 24. Complete rear half of a Suburban wagon included, intended to be built as a matching trailer. Price-$12,000.00- complete package for everything I have to put the car together, plus spares, plus the second body. $10,000.00 without the engine and transmission. I have tons of pictures I will email to anyone interested. I am working on getting them uploaded to the web over at the HAMB. I can work out transport for cost.

11. He's a Hillbilly............

I appreciate all the comments and advice. I'm really pleased to be part of this great group of people. I'm sure something will work out one way or the other. I'm inclinded to find a buyer rather than continue working on something I can no longer afford to keep, but whatever works out will have to be ok. Parting would be less preferable, but is an option. All up in the air at present, but I'm not worried, I've been in tougher scrapes before. Many thanks, to all of you!

Everybody knows the past few years have been hard, for everybody. Me too. I've come to a point where I have sell off my last treasure, my 50 Plymouth Suburban wagon. Hard decision to make, but necessary. The difficult economy and my wife's declining health made the decision only slightly easier for me. The hard part is whether to sell it whole, or in parts. Let me elaborate. About four years ago the car was taken down for restoration. Everything was either replaced with NOS parts, or the part itself was fully restored to better than new condition. All the bodywork was done including full new rockers etc. There is no rust or rot, none. The painting is mostly done except for the body shell, but it's underway. A few more examples, the original radio was restored, fully updated to am/fm with a CD/Ipod jack added. All the bits were chromed and the grille was replated original green color. Both bumpers are NOS and were sent out for new chrome. All the trim pieces, every single piece, was bought NOS and re-chromed. New suspension, four wheel discs, rebuilt Mopar 8 3/4 rear, wiring harness, lizard skin sprayed everywhere, new floors, rebuilt steering box, NOS gauges, dash bezel, hood bezel, fully rebuilt flathead with serious improvements including 2bbl intake, dual exhaust, shaved head, decked block, balanced, and on and on and on. This was to be my car, my last car so money was no object at the time. It is an object now. So, do I try to sell a car that is apart as a whole project or start the painful parting out process. We've all been here, today is my turn. I'll post some pics later. What would you do?

A bit more info. The table moves from horizontal through 90 degrees up to vertical. It 8' X 10' and weighs around 2500 lbs. I have to use two cylinders, one at each end as there is no mounting place in the center that will work due to the undercarriage of the table.

I have a project in my shop to fabricate a tilt table for cutting granite. The metal fab is easy for me, but I'm rusty on the hydraulics. I need some direction on rams and placement etc. Anybody care to take me under their wing?

No problem on my end, all is well.

Yeah, I guess it would take some real effort to pick a fight on this forum! I'm always glad to hear the other point of view, I just usually can't afford it...financially I mean. I'm old enough to remember that I started driving old cars because they were cheap. Those days are gone as are most of what I remember anymore.

On the manifolds I braze up I can separate the two halves and have done when asked. I've also cut manifolds in two and made two separate manifolds from one stock manifold. The idea with this adapter was to double the outlets without all the shipping and brazing and costs. A quicker and simpler route to two outlets. I wasn't starting an argument, just stating my preference for a simplified two into one exhaust.

Don, if you want truly separate duals you would have to braze or weld a piece into the manifold behind where the plate bolts on. Nothing against "true" duals, but I've never installed them.

I have never used duals on any of my cars or trucks. The double pipes, hangers, mufflers, and the balance tube never appealed to me. I run the two exhaust pipes into one high flow muffler with one large diameter tailpipe. Flows nice, sounds good, and fits the available space quite well. Just my opinion, not knocking anybody's dual setup. I am currently impressed with the Flowmaster Hushpower mufflers, but there are lots of options out there.

The engine isn't mine, it's one I saw here on the forum. I'd like to know about the pulleys myself!

I made up a few of these dual exhaust adapters after seeing a picture of one here on the forum. Old dogs can learn new tricks! I like this method even better than my usual traditional brazing method. It doesn't require a broken manifold for the second dump. It only requires that you use a 1 1/2" hole saw to open up the bottom of the manifold. Then bolt on the adapter using the four bolts that hold the two manifolds together. I made the length match the original dump and made the flange the same size so your exhausts will be similar to one another. I like that it moves the second dump back away from the fuel pump too! My hat's off to whoever made the one in the picture, I owe you a favor at least! I'm going to add them to the Rustyhope lineup tomorrow, $65 shipped to lower 48 US address.

The whole idea is to increase the available exit area of the exhaust, to increase the flow rate by doubling the exhaust outlets. I put mine just forward of the center of the manifold. This is an arbitrary position, but I chose it because it evenly divides the six exhaust outlets with three being closer to one outlet and three closer to the other. In a true dual exhaust a balance tube is needed in the system somewhere, but this method makes that unnecessary. I run the two dumps into a low restriction muffler, two in and one out.

Time to watch the movie again, long live Bill Murray!

I've got an intake coming, will let you all know how it works out. I'd really like to find some broken exhausts, or dumps off exhausts if anyone has them in their scrap bin.

Thanks for all the replies and offers to help. I think I will be good on intakes. I am also always looking for exhausts, or just the broken back half of an exhaust for the dumps. I use them to make up the dual exhaust from a stock manifold. See the attached pic. I can use both types.

I'm finishing up a build on a 47 Plymouth 218. I went to hang the intake on the block today for painting and noticed all four exhaust/intake bolts are broken off in the intake. Of course they are too deep to grab and take out. I tried drilling them and of course the drill walked off center etcetcetc....So, I need an intake to finish up the job. Anybody got one they can let go for reasonable money? Or, if you need something what would you trade? I'm getting ready to downsize my shop and the great purge is close at hand. After many years saving and saving and saving this stuff it's time to clear out some stuff. Let me know what you have, and what you need for it and we can go from there.

They are scarce, but not rare. However, the issue is when new they were incredibly expensive and finding one I can afford is the test. When one pops up for an affordable price it's worth shipping.