Normspeed

Darin, I may have been barking up the wrong tree. I was thinking the P15 might be the same as my P24. here is a photo of the two sway bar mounts that came off my broken P24 sway bar. There are also two more rubber mounts at the extreme ends of the bar. On these mounts, the rubber pieces seem to be captured pretty tightly in the mount which is spot welded together. Sorry to get you off the track. The P15 setup might be way different. The insulator pad, I can't say, since I'm still running with a badly deteriorated one. My guess is that the main purpose is to dampen road vibrations so they don't transmit to the frame.

Glad she's doing ok now Fred. 40 is way too young to be worrying about health issues. That's pretty neat that the paramedic phoned you enroute to the hospital with an update. He is to be commended!

Boy, with all the heating and cooling over the years, those choke bolts sure get fragile. If it will hold down tight with one bolt I wouldn't think grounding would be an issue. You can try to drill out the old bolt and replace it. At least it's pretty accessible. Plenty of older threads about broken bolts and studs and how to get them out. Have fun!

From another thread today: "I have been told by other forum members that my ideals are not correct. My ideals being that you should know just a little bit about your car before you spend big money on repairs. So I say toss all the information you have received about your engine from forum members such as myself and others down the sewer and go with what ever your family plumbing business can support. Find and purchase a matched set of piston rods to make your machinist happy and go for it. Hopefully with you enriching the economy my 401K will also see an enrichment. I welcome comments from normspeed and others." OK, I took the bait. Don, a couple days back I contacted you by PM, not on the forum, because I didn't want to add to the public unpleasantries that seem to be taking over parts of the P15-D24 forum these days. Apparently though, you would like to go a different route. If you are referring to my PM when you say you were told your ideals are not correct, you know and I know that I did not even use that word. If you're not sure of that, go back and re-read my PM. If you'd feel better I can cut and paste what both of us said in that exchange, unedited, into this thread, so there would be no chance of someone being painted with the wrong brush. This forum has never been about baiting people into arguments, nor is it about badgering or bullying certain members. There used to be a lot of room given to people who are not professional mechanics and who might ask questions that have been asked before. Some of us have lost that helpful spirit, in a big way. Fact is, when it comes to bullies, there are three types of people. Those who stand behind a bully and cheer him on, hoping they will not be his next target; those who say nothing because they also hope to keep a low profile and avoid being the next target; and, those who speak up. I've spoken my thoughts to you in a PM, not publicly, but you just don't seem to get it. All I can say is, to those who think they own the forum, or think no one else should have different opinions or ask questions, have a blast, and I hope the rest of the forum members can, one way or another, keep enjoying the forum and avoid being the next target. There are a few here who know what I'm talking about, because direct conversations with them indicated they were victims of this stuff in the past. I've witnessed some of it and it is getting worse. Let me know if you'd like me to accurately quote what our brief PM conversation consisted of. I stand behind what I said to you. Meanwhile, I'm sad to say that I've pretty much had it with the downward turn this forum has taken. A sad thing to see, and I don't need the aggravation of seeing any more of it. We've lost a lot of quality participants in the past year or so and there is no doubt that the negativity here is a part of the reason. This has gone from the best forum on the internet to just another forum. Lastly, you seem to be very proud of getting "grumpier by the day". I don't see anything to be proud of in that statement, nor in proving it in your posts to others. It's just not what this place ever stood for, in the past. That's all I have to say. Guess you could say I'm one of those who speak up.

Bolted to the frame, but it looks like the rubber bushings are captive inside spot welded brackets that bolt to the frame. Might be easier to replace than it looks. I'd sure like to hear from someone who has replaced them with new.

Hi Darin, mine had the loose steering box too. It was the rubber insulator pad that had deteriorated, between box and frame. In my case I tightened the bolts and have never replaced the insulator but some day I will. It's a good idea to replace it at the same time as the rebuild and alignment, as replacing it later will affect your tow-in adjustment. They are available from different sources, not real cheap but under $50. Personally I would stay away from Roberts on rubber parts because I've had a couple of their rubber items rot away within a year. I just bought a tie rod end and a kingpin kit from RockAuto.com at a good price. They offer two grades of name brand tie rod ends, I went for the good'uns. By stabilizer bar, you mean the sway bar across the front? Not sure where or how the shop would locate those bushings for your P15 but maybe they have a source. The rubber bushings are enclosed in a bracket that's spot welded together so I think to replace them you would have to drill out the welds, replace the rubber, then either weld or bolt the brackets back together. Let us know about how that part goes. I broke my sway bar earlier this year and replaced it with a used one that has very loose rubber bushings. Need to fix that eventually.

Very sad. I'll miss him.

Hey Don, how about lightening up?

Ahhh, sweet revenge!

A pop quiz. Gosh, I hate pop quizzes.

Make sure your clutch disk is not in backwards. They will go in that way but there is a difference. On the input shaft, some will come right off if you remove the machine bolts and the retainer cone. But, other Mopar 3 speeds require the input shaft to come out by disassembling the trans and pushing the shaft and bearing out to the rear.

My favorites are the L.A. Roadster Show in Pomona, held on Fathers Day weekend in June. The show is for pre-37 roadsters, but the preferred parking is a huge show of everything else, and the swap meet is big. Also the Pomona swap, held periodically. If in Southern Cal, be sure to check out the Bob's Big Boy cruise night in Toluca Lake. Best cruise ever, hands down. I couldn't even begin to list all the crazy stuff that comes through there.

A friend of mine did that, filled his gas tank with diesel, on the way home from California to Florida in a 34 Ford phaeton street rod.

I recently sold a small boat on Craigslist. No fees, but it's a more localized market. The boat sold in just a couple weeks. Different from ebay, since it's not an auction, you fix your asking price and go from there. There is a separate program called Crazed list that allows buyers to search many local lists at once.

I use the Offy and it's a good fit and less money than the Edmunds or other vintage aluminums. The kit comes with fuel line and fittings, and a basic linkage kit included. I run two stock type Ball & Ball carbs. It runs great, although on my 53 it has a tendency to boil fuel in the float bowls in hot summer weather. Probably due to the alcohol content in the local gasoline. I'd like to try the Carter Webers or Holley Webers some day, when time and money permit. I get around 15 mpg average.