adam_knox

Woah! A hundred and ninety markers have been placed! We might break 200 mopar owners!

Hey Dr. Dial Tone, did ya' get it figured out? Here's the steps on what to do. Shouldn't matter if you're using a mac... Step 1: Go to the map Step 2: Type your address in the search bar (City, State will do, or whatever system your country has set up). Click "Search." Step 3. A box will appear to "pin" your location. Under "Name" put your forum id name Under "Message" you can leave your e-mail address (or other contact information. Optional, but is nice if someone from the forum wants to invite ya' over for a cookout!) Under "Image" you can, if you wish, upload a jpeg avatar image from your computer Finally, click the icon you would like to be used to tag your location.

So envious! Our sister campus in Columbia, SC got a snow day, but here in Savannah it's a normal Garfield kinda Monday. People here drive me crazy, took 22 minutes to drive 4 miles! Enjoy your day off Tim!

Just a friendly bump so the new members can see where their fellow Mopar neighbors are (instructions to add yourself are on the first post). Meeting your fellow forum members definitely makes a fantastic memory. Don't be shy. We all at least have one thing in common to talk about!

Hey, that was a great article, thanks hkestes41! For those curious, here's the table of ranges you get with each battery pack. The first dollar amount is the conversion kit cost. I was surprised to find out 6 volts gives you the most range. Its a shame the trade off scenario is the way it is, as I'd be fine with the old mopar perfoming the same with batteries in it, but I'd want at least a 150 mile range. If I had the time/money I'd love to do that to a junkyard mopar! Battery Range Comparison Cycle Life/Longevity Comparison Cost Comparison NiCad 40% greater 2 to 4 times the cycle life 4 to 10 times the cost NiMH 2 times greater 3 to 4 times the cycle life Up to 10 times the cost Li-Ion 3 to 4 times greater 4 to 10 times the cycle life 10 to 25 times the cost Voltage is the first number, top speed and range 96 55 0-60 in 20 sec. 70 mph 45 miles $5,500 FCLA - $1,350 120 85 0-60 in 16 sec. 80 mph 60 miles $6,500 FCLA - $1,700 144 150 0-60 in 10 sec. 90 mph 70 miles $7,300 FCLA - $2,050 192 200 0-60 in 8 sec. 110 mph 50 miles $9,500 SRLA - $2,900 288 300 0-60 in 6 sec. 125 mph 60 miles $11,000 SRLA - $4,300 336 400 0-60 in 4 sec. 125+ mph 80 miles $15,000 Li-Ion -$15,000+ 356 800 0-60 in 2.2 sec. 150+ mph 125 miles $28,000 Li-Ion -$30,000+ *Battery Types: FCLA = flooded-cell lead-acid SRLA = Sealed recombinant lead-acid Li-Ion=Lithium-iron-phosphate

Lol, that is one heck of a theater group! All the plays I was in as a kid we just used folding chairs to be the car. One time it got fancy and someone made a cardboard grill! Must've a been a fun project to work on. That's interesting a golf cart motor could get the car to move. Heck, that'd be like a giant go-kart then! Heck, if you took that on a golf course you'd even put this guy to shame!

Not that I'm planning (let alone capable!) of an electric motor modification but just wondering. :confused:I saw the thread about disel motors and gas mileage. I know a DeLorean's been converted and Volkswagon bugs are done all the time, would a 40's mopar be likely for such a thing? I always hear today's cars can't get phenomenal gas mileage because of all the extra weight of the safety stuff, but surely ours are tank and we don't have much for safety precautions! Of course if one did convert, we probably couldn't keep it a 6-volt and would have to do a 12 volt conversion! Electric Delorean Featured Bug Conversion in Wired magazine

Hey! Its the mysterious heat riser! My car's missing mine. Just make sure you patch the hole good before you install it. My car keeps turnign into a phantom Harley because all my attempts to keep the darn hole block end up failing! (course I'm trying to do a temp fix until I find myself one of those fancy risers! Glad to hear of your adventures!

Hey Phil! Welcome to the forum. Looks like a beaut ya' got there! Where ya' located? Hope you keep us posted on your projects!

Today I learned about an accessory that is probably harder to come by than the coveted clocks you guys post about. Anyone care to guess the year the car phone came out? 1946! The history of the car phone: http://www.wb6nvh.com/Carphone.htm Didn't read it, but there's a few pictures, and a picture is worth a thousand words, so it's kinda like reading...

Just out of curiosity, when new, how well or long did these cars go without leaking oil? I've met some pretty meticulous owners and even their cars leak. Are we chasing the dragon here?

A little late, hopefully you got the car by now. I did a broker method from Cali to WI. Wasn't the best method in my situation. I hadn't seen the car prior to shipping and some damage was done that I didn't notice until after I go it home. Took over a month for someone to pick it up (that was b/c no truckers were going from Cali to WI). The money I saved in shipping was lost with the time and cost of future repairs. My damage was minimal in a sense, the chrome grill got dented and scuffed and the plastic emblem got cracked (not very noticeable except the grill was in perfect shape prior to shipping and the plastic piece is impossible to find NOS or without cracks). The other thing that got damaged was the convertible top, but that was of no fault of the shipper, other than I chose not to do an enclosed trailer. Anyways, I would do a broker again, just not for a car in pretty good condition. Hope you like your new ride!

Speaking of magnetic, it was pretty cool to find the M6 drain plug had magnets embedded in it. Genius!

Thanks Merle. See you were saying what I was noticing. I was like "why don't they mention lubricating both the fluid drive AND transmission fluid in the manual?" Just seemed odd that the way everything was going together. I'm gonna leave the fluid drive fluid in there (its at least five years old, but still clean and pink) and figure if it could leak out there's plenty in there. After all how can I add more if its already pouring out when I pull out the bolt. I gotta remember to keep the wrenches in the shade. Stuff get really hot out here left in the sun for a few minutes! Thanks for the lead on the tool!

Thanks Merle! So just spray some brake cleaner through the access panel on the floor board then? As for the the draining part, I thought there's two bolts with square heads on the transmission housing we use to drain the fluid. The bottom one drains and the one above that is to check how full it is. Then we use the bolt on the housing (that you pictured) to fill it up. So are you saying I should: 1.First drain it with the normal drain plug 2.Then take off the filler bolt you showed, turn the engine until its downward and let that drain. 3.Then turn the engine until its up again. Then fill? Sorry for the elementary questions. The manual skips over the maintenance and the little service books and motors manuals just say to monitor how much fluid to put in, not how.

Looked underneath the car, rag didn't catch it all, there's a puddle under the housing.

Hey gang! I sure didn't want this to be my first post since I'm back, was hoping to post moving and car pics. But alas, my idiocy this afternoon may have gotten me in trouble. I was changing the fluid for the Chrysler's M6 Fluid Drive. I stuck a rag to make sure the bolt didn't fall in. But I pulled the bolt out before I drained the fluid and it started leaking out. I *think* the rag caught most or all of it (but can't guarantee that. I was reading the technical tips section and it said: "Be very careful as you fill the unit. Any spillage will always find it’s way to your clutch disk ! After filling, make sure the filler bolt is secure with no leakage." So now what? Can I squirt some brake cleaner down there and hope that breaks up the oil? How much oil does it take to do damage? Or am I just in a drive it until it breaks scenario? Thanks gang. And hullo from GA!

I bought some "Fahrenheit" epoxy from the hardware store, says good up to 500 degrees F. Was going to put that around a short bolt and seal it in. Wish there was a less permanent solution, but the cork only lasted me 10 miles before it popped out! James, when you say two copper washers do you mean to just stack the two washers?

Merle, you were right, the hole isn't threaded. Threw a cork in there until I figure out what I wanna do with it. Still figuring out if I should hunt for a heat riser. The car hasn't had one since I've owned it. You at work today? Have to go get the suit fitted and was thinking of swinging by....

Yeah, I don't have a heat riser spring, but I do have a metal stud that it looks like a heat riser should clamp onto. On the opposite side there's a bolt hole. David, you're right, it doesn't serve any mounting purpose to hold the pipes together nor does it attach to the engine. Merle, you should be on a game show with your skill in SWAG guessing! So should there be a bolt in that hole since I don't have a riser?

Hey Tod, yeah, the Chrysler 1948 manifold gaskets are smaller than the 1949. Sadly, I now know this first hand! =P Since that crazy half year the company in 49 they fella prolly just grabbed the wrong one off the shelf getting the first and second series models mixed up. I don't blame the guy, I do that stuff all the time. Bought a set of four bolts from the hardware store the other day, get home, and sure enough, even after my double check one of the four bolts is shorter than the others!

Thanks Don for the pic of the engine. I have all the mounting bolts for that installed. Its on the "sqaure" portion of the manifold itself where there is a hole. (on the opposite side or where some cars have that heat riser thing they flip). I "drew" this on paint, so pretend you are the engine and its being mounted to you, the red circle is the hole in question. Is this the hole you are talking about James? Thanks for your help guys, sorry for some reason I'm lacking the vocabulary to convey what I'm talking about. I really need a course in old car terminology!

So I've had the usual number of hiccups in getting the car ready for this weekend (company accidentally sent a different year's manifold gasket set that doesn't fit). So anyways, I put the manifold on, and I have one stud/bolt combo left that mounts into the engine. Then I look on the manifold bottom square section and there's a hole on the side facing the engine...I'm out of bolts. Does anyone recollect if a bolt goes into the side of the manifold (not the 4 that run vertically to hold the two pieces together)? Sorry, I don't have a picture or anything, I've looked in the manual, parts guide, and a Motor's manual, but none show detailed pictures, especially at that angle. Thanks gang, hope everyone is having a good week. Can't believe June is almost here!

Hey thanks gang! I love it when there's a general consensus on a topic, don't have to worry about making the wrong choice! I scrapped all the carbon deposits off the manifold with a razor blade and cleaned it with brake parts cleaner. Looks pretty smooth. If I get a leak I'll be sure to get it machined. Hopefully I'll have the car back on the road tomorrow! (Of course now that I said that I'm sure I'll hit a hiccup!) Thanks again for the advice and explanations!

So I have six days to get the car ready for the big day and then the move. Priority number one is the putting the exhaust manifold on. I have the gasket set, but do I put a thin layer of the red gasket sealer on it? Just trying to do this right so people don't mistake my car for a harley 10 blocks away. The gasket sealer says high heat, but never specifically states exhaust manifolds. None in the store did. Any tips from people who did it with or without? Also, if I do use it, most of the gasket sealers say skins in an hour, cures in 24. Does that mean I should keep the car parked for 24 hours? That's one full day out of service. Thanks in advance gang!