falconvan

I found the outer rocker repos on Ebay. They were actually for a four door sedan but fit nice when trimmed down. I hadn't thought of chemical dipping; it probably would have been a good idea. I did coat the inside of the rockers with rust preventor before I closed them up. You've definately got a chore with bad B pillars but it can be done. Did you try Wayne at The Plymouth Doctor? He might have some patch panels for them.

Thanks, Joe. I had it sandblasted, there's an old timer around here who really has the right touch for getting them stripped without warping the sheetmetal. That's a bottle of some spray on rust converter I've been getting from Advance Auto parts for a few years. Good stuff, really keeps it from coming back.

Heres the last few

I made the inner rockers with some 16 ga and a $50 brake, bought the outer rockers, and took the sedan floor out at the factory seams and dropped it in the coupe in one piece. I left the floor braces on the sedan floor and just cut the floor back about 4" from the bracr ends on each side, leaving the brace end exposed. I measured and got them welded in place first and just patched in the sides with some more 16 ga. The rear of the floor I separated at the spot welds where it sat on a lip at the edge where the trunk floor started and dropped it right into the same spot on the coupe. The coupe and sedan floors are identical. Then I made the front pieces on both sides of the trans tunnel cover and used the factory cover to finish it up.

A few more

I did an entire floor transplant on mine, it wasn't too bad.

Just build one of each, a chopped one and a stock one. They'd look great side by side.

I've seen them both ways, unbelieveably high or low. I bought three 86 Crown Vic police cars at an estate auction for $600 for all of them. I also saw a 64 Plymouth Belvedere 4 dr 6 cylinder go for $5K and it was a pile of crap. If I was closer, I'd check this one out but it's about 4 hrs from me. That's a long way to go to come home empty handed.

This one looks pretty good, lots of memorabilia and a fair amout of cars from what I hear. http://www.sullivanauctioneers.com/06.10.09.Simmons/auction.html

I've used a Fluke 322 at work and home for several years. It's been a great tool, really bulletproof. I paid $99 for it.

If mama aint happy...............enough said. My wife is the same way but I do find myself getting more done when I listen to her advice to stick to one project. She's a pretty smart lady; most of the time.

How have you been, George? Did you get that beast on the road yet?

I am however quilty of the cookie cutter comment..and to qualify that statement to some degree you can only look at so many IDIDIT, Genie, Ron Drake, Dakota Digital, billet accessories and them awful looking designer front seats..etc etc before you are ready to gag..not knocking anyone who has that..but it gets boring after a bit. This I totally agree with; I prefer more stock looking while at the same time trying to make it friendlier for long distance driving. I never cared for the flamed steering wheels, digital gauges, and 21st century looking interiors.

I figured what I had in mine last night: using the stock suspension and upgrading I paid $225 for the rack and pinion mount kit, $90 for a new rack and pinion, $300 for dropped uprights which came with a shock relocation kit, $500 for disc brake conversion stuff, $100 for an Ebay tilt column, and probably another $200 for misc like steering joints, new shocks, some boneyard items, etc. So about $1400 and I think I probably could've done the brake conversion cheaper than what I did.

I'd check with Fatman's Fabrications. These early Mopar front ends actually have pretty good geometry and Fatman's make a few nice kits to adapt a 89-96 Cavalier rack and pinion, disc brakes, and dropped uprights to them. I've seen a few done this way and both owners were very satisfied with the results. I'm doing this with mine; the rack conversion along with disc brakes and dropped uprights. They also offer a complete front framestub to use MII stuff if you want to go that route. I looked at a Camaro subframed 48 P15 last year and decided not to do mine that way because it just looked like a hack job. If you're going through the labor and $$ to upgrade, look at the companies who've put good research and development into their product.

Thanks Tim, I may have that manual somewhere; I got a few with the car. I'll take a look.

When I took my coupe apart a few years ago, I didn't pay attention to the body mount configuration. I found new rubbers for the mounts at Steele Rubber Products, and they list an upper and a lower rubber piece. Does each mount take 1 upper and 1 lower rubber piece? Would anyone happen to have an exploded view of how the mounts went together? Sorry guys, I should have taken pictures when I tore it down.

Parts came today and look great; thanks Wayne.

Well, it seemed like an honest mistake and he was very apologetic. Looks like he's one of the good guys.

How weird is this; the guy just called me and said he would ship them out today. Maybe he saw my post.

Thanks, good idea. He never charged me for the parts but I'd still like to get them. He's the only one I could find that had repair panels.

The best looking aftermarket steering wheel I've seen on a 40's era car is a Lecarra Mark 10. Pricey, but a very classy modern update.

I called him and got a voicemail; I'm just wondering if anyone has had any recent dealings with him.

Is this "Plymouth Doctor" guy still in business? I ordered parts from him last November. He said he'd be shipping them in January but haven't heard a word from him in four months.

Even though I'm a lifelong Republican and voted for McCain. I'm willing to give our new President the benefit of the doubt based on his performance. There's been enough polarizing and fighting amoungst our two parties and look where it's gotten us. Mr Obama, I'm keeping an open mind. Prove to me that you've got the answers and I'll give you whatever credit you earn.