dsapern

I am in the final stages of restoring my 1951 Dodge B3C and was wondering if anyone knew the correct length of the four openings (slits) in the steel wheels. When I got the pick-up, there were four different wheels on it. I think the correct slit length should be around 3". I've seen some of the Dodge/Chrysler wheels with slits from 3 7/8" slit, 3" slit, 1 1/2" to no slits (solid face). I have attached a picture of one of my wheels so you will know the slit I'm talking about. Your help on this would be greatly appreciated.

I do have power and when I touch the two wires together the brake lights both work. Also, when I use a center punch and simulate hydraulic fluid and press the plunger in the brake switch it works then too. I just think that I don't have enough brake fluid pressure at the switch port to press in that plunger to complete the circuit.

That's what I'm leaning towards...a bad master cylinder. I purchased a Raybestos master cylinder in 2016 and I think it has a lifetime warrantee. If not, I will get a hold of Steve at DCM classics. I do have him on speed dial. What a great man and a great company to do business with. Thanks for the feedback.

To be honest, I don't know if the brakes are great. They work. I'm restoring the truck and I've only driven it 1 or 2 miles. With the switch out of the master cylinder and someone to press on the brake pedal it hardly produces any brake fluid (in the hole that the brake switch is supposed to be in). I would think that it would squirt brake fluid all over the place but it doesn't.

All, Is it possible for a bad brake master cylinder to not provide enough brake fluid going to hydraulic brake switch to close the circuit? I have replaced the brake switch with two brand new NAPA parts and still nothing. I know the wire going back to the brake light is good because they light up when power is applied. A bad brake master cylinder is the only thing that I could think of. Also, do the brakes need to be bleed when changing out a brake switch. It might have been that my original brake switch did go bad but added air into the system when I changed it out. Please provide your thoughts. Thanks.

Paul, Any ideas what type of New Process. I do know it's a NP 4 speed spur gear...is that all the farther I can go with the model type? I didn't know it there was a model number ex. NP420, NP435, etc.

Jeff, I appreciate the time, effort, and all of your information. I know more about the transmission today than I knew yesterday. Thanks again. Travis

I figured out how to post the pictures so here they are.

My case casting number says that it's a Warner. The casting number is C-38661. I'm very confused as the casting numbers say Warner but the logo says NP. Did NP make a spur gear? The reason why I need to identify the transmission is because I want to replace the gaskets, seals, and bearings. Travis

I need help identifying my transmission. The casting number on the case says that it's a Warner. This can't be because of the NP logo right? The case casting number is C-38661, and the top casting number is C-39871. It has two different production dates...50' and 51'. Also there is a large 3" "S" stamped on the top. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I tried to download the pictures but the file sizes were too large.

Jeff, Thanks for the information. Is that a New Process or Warner transmission? The reason why I ask is because the transmission repair manual on dodgepilothouseclub.org says Warner makes the spur gear but my transmission has an NP stamped on the case and top. Can the spur gear also be called "up to" or "after?" Thanks again for all of your help in identifying my transmission, Travis

Hank, Is the top transmission 4 speed spur type transmission a NP 420? Mine looks just like that and I'm having difficulty identifying it. Thanks, Travis