Kai-by-Vecona

Thanks a lot everybody for all the good ideas, seems I have some homework to do now. I unistalled the radiator because it's leaking and I'm going to fix it so this is the possibility to do the timing chain job but as I could see, there are a lot of more things I should check. Only problem is, for most of these checks I had to run the engine, what is not possible now. Maybe I have a look at the chain how it looks and when it seems to be ok I will try all the other ideas and let you know. Thanks a lot. I'll let you know what works best

Yes, I installed a new ignition coil. Plugs are NGK I guess and also the wires. I double ckecked these and also tried other spark plugs. I never tried a static timing. I don't know if it works with pointless ignition. May it be possible that the output of my generator is too low? Just a guess because when I run the car, the gauge does not show very much charging....

6 Volt

The car was kept in a garage since 1993 and was driven not very often and just short distances. When I get the car from the states in 2012 it did the misfiring. I thought it just could be some small stuff like timing or breakers but it didn't. I did the following jobs on the engine: First I thought it was the braker, so I installed a new on, including finger, distributor cap, wires and spark plugs, but it didn't solve the problem. Then I tried an electronic ignition but it won't be better. Then I thought it may be a fuel problem and rebuilt the carburator but nothing happened. By the time I installed a new carburator, new fuel pump, new rebulilt distributor, new fuel filter and checked vaccum and all that stuff. Exhaust is also new. Now I run out of ideas. When I check timing it seems to be everything ok but the marks jump a little bit.

I'm in holyday so I don't have the paperwork with me :-(. The engine runs better with the pointless ignition but it just shifts the misfiring from 30-40 to 40-50 miles. That's why I thought it might be something else. One idea is, that the main metering jet in the carburator is too small. But I installed the original rebuilding kit so it might be right. Maybe it has something to do, that it's a 1950 engine with the original carburator and ignition. Think the swapped the engine sometimes and installed the original stuff. As far es I know it shouldn't make any differences but who knows.

@DutchEdwin. Yes .. I cleaned everything and the centrifugal weights seemed to do fine. @Don. I installed a electronic ignition from classicheads.com including a new ignition coil. It's just a small part mounted on the braker plate of the original distributor. @RobertKB. That would be an idea. I thought fuel should be ok because the level in the filter was ok but who knows...

Hello Jeff, that's what I would try to find out if it could be caused by something else. I go to have a look if the distributor shaft has a play, but I never heard to change the bearing or get the parts for it. I would do the timing chain job if I don't get any other ideas. Thanks Kai

Hello Everybody, thanks for all that info. Here are some answers: @RobertKB. I didn't check the hose but I have a clear fuel filter and I thought I might see it if the fuel lever get's lower. @Jeff Balazs. Plugs and wires are new. I mean that the mark on the damper jumps 5° up and down with idling in the same speed. @John Reddie. I run the car with the original oil bath cleaner. The result is the same with or without air cleaner. I checked the heat riser valve and it seems to work properly. The exhaust system is brand new. That shouldn't influence it. @Dave72dt. Yes it has a vaccum advance system. I checked the function of it with a vaccuum pump and it worked. The ignition does not have points any more. @greg g. I made a compression test. It has a minimum of 80psi on 5 and 6 and 90 on first cylinder. It also has a lazy accelaration. As I told there no points or condensor left in the distributor. I have a vaccum gauge and made a test but maybe I shouldn't have bought the cheapest tool because I wasn't able to get to the results of teh shop manual but it was enough to see that it works. I didn't find a way to see properly if the spring in the vaccuum advance need more or less tension. But I have two vacuum advanced units and it's the same result with both.

Hi Everybody, I have a misfiring problem on my D22. When the engine is on higher rpms i have a misfire so the car wouldn't go faster than 45 to 50 miles. It also has not full power on full accelaration. First I thought it was the braker, so I installed a new on, including finger, distributor cap, wires and spark plugs, but it didn't solve the problem. Then I tried an electronic ignition but it won't be better. Then I thought it may be a fuel problem and rebuilt the carburator but nothing happened. By the time I installed a new carburator, new fuel pump, new rebulilt distributor, new fuel filter and checked vaccum and all that stuff. Now I run out of ideas. When I check timing it seems to be everything ok but the marks jump a little bit. Then I remenbered a post, that I didn't find anymore saying it may be a problem of a worn timing chain that could affect the timing in higher rpms. I'm not sure if this could affect the misfiring in higher rpms. Did anyone heard about that or have another idea? Thanks a lot Kai

Hello, because I didn't find the pin I will try to plug the hole. Now as I understand the funktion of the high idle cam I would try without until I find a carburetor for rebuilt. You can't leave the hole open because the enginge will get too much air. What I really don't understand is the construction of the hole/pin. I always think, the hole might be something for elsewhere they could made a pin that is included in the cast body. But who knows... main thing is to get the car back on the street. Thank's for the help Kai

yes, the throttle plate is still in place. Like on the pictures of shel_ny there's a hole from the inside but the pin is missing. I don't understand how that part is fixed to the carburator normally. I really hope that it don't go inside.

Hello Everybody, I just tried to make a tune up when suddenly the engine shut down. I tried to start again but nothing happend exept. The I took the air cleaner off and saw that the linkage from the fast idle cam ob the carburator was loose. To my surprise, the hole axle were the idle cam and the linkage is fixed isn't there. I looked under the car and found nothing and I really can't remember how the axle is constructed. My manual didn't show anything either. So I uninstalled the carburator and I see nothing but a hole. There's no thread or anything what could hold the axle. Now I'm a little bit afraid, that the axle normally is pressed into the carburator and it's got loose however and the part is sucked into the engine. (Pleeeeeeease say that this couldn't happen!) However does anybody has a solution to this? I don't want to pull off the head just to look if the littel piece has found it's way through the engine...

Ok... some time passed by but I didn't find the time to fix the problem earlier. I didn't remove the bushings because they still looked good to me but I cleaned the bushings with solvent and also the input shaft of the transmission and installed the transmission again. It's very much better now. It's still there when the engine is idling faster e. g. when the engine is cold but at normal operating temperature it worked fine shifting in 3 or 4 first and then in first or back. It did that job without a lift just put the car on jacks. Uninstalling the FD and the transmission ist one thing but to get it back is horrible. I really can't recommend that. That was really hard learning by doing ;-)

Thanks to everybody, this helps a lot. I didn't find one of theses tools at a payable price here so I looked at ebay US and it's cheaper to buy there and ship to Germany. Anyway... the broken spring is at intake five so I think it will be enough place for the tool. I'll try the way Dodgeb4ya showed me and hope it will work Kai

Hi Everybody, one of the valve springs of my 230 is broken so I have to install a new one. Now I tried to get a tool here in Germany to compress the valve spring to unistall the valves but I didn't get one that fits or works well. The engine and manifolds are still intsalled and I don't want to put them off. What kind of tool do you use and where did you get it from? Thanks in advance Kai

Hello Bob, thanks for that advice. I hope I can fix it without changing the bushings but when I can't clean them or I'll find out that they are worn I'll try it. Kai

Thats good to hear that I might be right. I try to get rid of all the gooey stuff but I hope to get rid of it without disassembling the Fluid Drive. I check for the 3-in-one Oil if it's available here in Germany or an equivalent. Thanks a lot Kai

Hi there, that just looks like that. I also wondered why the structure of the clutch disc is "printed" on the flywheel but I have no idea. If the clutch won't have seperate I think it would have not been possible to shift the other gears either. There's no grinding on the flywheel. This is just the part, that is not coverd by the disc when touching the surface. All surfaces are very even, and no signs of burning or anything else. My only idea is the thing with the bushings.

Hi, if you mean the release bearing and sleeve it's there and in good condition. I didn't take a picture of it. Kai

Hello Everybody, long time past by, but I didn't find the time to solve this problem earlier. But now, my own christmas present was a day under the car and pulling out the transmission clutch and Fluid drive. I enclosed some pictures because I think the problem isn't the clutch. All surfaces look pretty new and also the thickness of the lining is nearly new. In my opinion I could use it as it is. Also the fluid drive looks pretty dry, no leaks anywhere so I won't touch it because insalling new bushings ans seals sounds a little bit uneasy when you do not have the right tools. The only thing I could imagine what causes the grinding is like 1941Rick said the bushings. Both bushings and the transmission drive pinion look good, but there's a kind of grease on the surface of the pinion, that feels a little bit sticky just a little bit like resin from trees. Would you say it might be enough to clean the surfaces and grease them with graphite grease or something like that? As already said I won't uninstall the fluid drive because I'm afraid to make it worse because I don't have the special tool which are needed. Should I change the fluid drive fluid? I think that has never been done. If so, I didn't find anything about the oil. Under normal circumstances I would take ATF Fluid but this is not an automatic, so does anybody know what specifications are needed? Thank you in advance Kai