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Kai-by-Vecona

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Everything posted by Kai-by-Vecona

  1. Kai-by-Vecona
    Made me a small tool. Works pretty fine to straighten the pan and not bend the holes in the opposite direction. Installeled the pan with longe allen head screws and it seems not to leak. Thanks for your help Kai
  2. Kai-by-Vecona
    Good ideas! Never thought about that before. I'll try !
  3. Kai-by-Vecona
    I saw it... have a original shop manual that says not to cut the edges. Thanks for your help and happy easter ? Kai
  4. Kai-by-Vecona
    Thanks for sharing your ideas. That was my guess that the pan is overtighten. I try to make it as flat as possble and hope it will seal ... mainly so long until I pass the official inspection ? Thanks and best wishes Kai
  5. Kai-by-Vecona
    Hi everybody, removed the oil pan of my 42 Coupe last week because it was leaking. Never changed the gasket since I bought the car in 2012 and I guess it was there forever. Normally the surface of the pan should be flat to avoid leaking again but when I put a ruler on it the surface looks like the Rockys. I guess it's pretty unimpossible to find a good new one in Germany so what's your opinion. Should I try to straighten the pan or leave it as it is with enough sealer on the cork gasket? My idea was to built me a U-shaped tool with a thread in the middle to push down the screw holes ... has anybody tried that before or has anybody another idea?
  6. Kai-by-Vecona
    The one I used was Made in Germany and it was ok :-) I'm also not a friend of cheap produced parts. There's more worry then fun with them. Before I installed the last gasket I put it on my scanner. I will vectorize it and give it to a friend who ist specialized in laser cutting of paper. Maybe he can make me a hand full of them. I have the feeling, I have to open the carb more often as I wish :-) Kai
  7. Kai-by-Vecona
    Ok... Problem solved. I checked the distributor but it was ok so I decided to disassemble the carburator. I did like Jan said and helped with a knife. The gasket is broken but I tried to use it again and there's nothing leaking.... lucky me :-) I changed the gas filter and cut the old one but it doesn't look dirty but when I opend the carburator inside the float chamber was lot's of dirt. I cleaned everything and blow all the holes and valves with air and now it's running fine again. My suspect is the littel piston inside the float chamber for the Fluid Drive. There's no real sealing around it and I guess that there's enough gap that dirt comes into the chamber with the time. Time will show... Hey Jan, good idea with the tetrapack ... I will try that. Was at the Motorworld Classics two weeks ago. If I had knowen that you live in Friedrichshafen we could have met. Maybe next year and thanks to you and everybody for the help Kai
  8. Kai-by-Vecona
    Good point!
  9. Kai-by-Vecona
    I installed an electronic ignition so this couldn't be the problem
  10. Kai-by-Vecona
    Hello Joe hello Lloyd, thanks for your help. I hoped I could avoid opening the carb because it destroys always the main gasket and I didn't find anyone who only sells the main gasket. Always find complet overhaul kits... Or does anybody know anyone? I would buy a 10-pack if I could :-) I let you know if it worked. Try it tomorrow and maybe I'm lucky with the gasket. Thanks again Kai
  11. Kai-by-Vecona
    Some days ago I drove a while with the pedal to the floor... so about two minutes. After that, the engine misfires when I go downhill and stalls when I stop. Before that, everything runs fine. I already chekcked the automatic choke but it works properly. Now I think maybe some holes in the carburator maybe stuck with something so the engine gets to much fuel. When I brake with the lieft foot and step a little bit on the gas it also runs fine. Is that a common problem with teh carburator or should I try to dissamble and clean it? Any ideas? Thanks for your help Kai
  12. Kai-by-Vecona
    That was also my idea. I think, this is in my opinion the most obvious reason that the car runs better now. Funny thing is, that I found the bushings at a company providing parts for restoring planes. A pack of ten bushings cost 12 British Pounds :-) So I have still 8 available. If someone wants to have some... just contact me...
  13. Kai-by-Vecona
    So....here are the latest results. Made the tune up today and the engine runs pretty well. It was easy to set timing and also the differences in the marker poistions on the damper where nearly nothing. Tested the car on the Autobahn and I run about 15 Miles with steady 75-80 mph. That's far more as before and I think the car never went so fast in it's life. Will have a look how things will go on. Now, the only problem is, that I can't say if it was only the timing chain, because I also installed new bushings in the distributor ( what might not effekt the timing because of the electronic ignition) and installed a NOS vacuum advance (just for fun, because the old was ok) Maybe it was the sum of all the work, .... I don't know. Maybe I just earned some respect of the car and it's running now because it want's to do so :-) But... thanks for all the help. Kai
  14. Kai-by-Vecona
    Hello Jeff, when I received the kit it was just the small part. I was wondering myself if this is everything but it worked fine. The grommet is a good idea. I think it's not the best thing when the wires get blank or anything else get's into the distributer. I never thought about the jumper wires. I think you're right that they are not needed when the car has no points anymore.
  15. Kai-by-Vecona
    Hi there, had some time yesterday and put everything together. I did it like janan5243 did and the engine is running. Have to tune up engine now because yesterday it was too late but the main thing is that it worked. Enclosed is a picture for Jeff showing the distributor with the electronic ignition element. Will let you know when I did the tune up. Kai
  16. Kai-by-Vecona
    verteiler

    From the album: Distributor

  17. Kai-by-Vecona
    Hi again, I also don't think it's just the chain but it was the last thing I didn't change. I also put new bushings into the distributor because there was too much play in the shaft. But I heard that the play has not very much effect using a electronic ignition but who knows. Everything else was fine. Wires, coil, rotor, cap, spark plugs everything is new and also in the right position and order :-). Last year I thought it could be something with fuel, so I installed a new pump and rebulild the carburator but this had no effect, so the chain was the only thing left... we will see. I couldn't go on for the next week because im off for work but as soon I have some results, I let you know.
  18. Kai-by-Vecona
    Hello Jeff, that's one thing I don't understand. It's the same with the picture Don posted. If you have a look at the screws that fix the cmashaft sprocket and you turn the camshaft 180° you have the same result. That's what makes me believe the dots are correct and I'm wrong. That's why I checked again the valves and I could do what I want valves are open at #1 when the dots match. That makes me thinking, that there's something with the camshaft. Is there a possibilty that there exist camshafts which are 180° turned. I wouldn't find a reason for that but as far as I know the engine was build up to the early 70s, maybe there was a wired setup for a strange kind of use and as I told before, the engine was rebuild somehow. Who knows what kind of cam they put into that block. On the other hand, I couldn't imagine that there are so many possibilities installing other camshafts like the regular. Fact is, when the dots match, #1 valves are open and #6 is firing. I just have to install the radiator to start the engine. Then we will see....
  19. Kai-by-Vecona
    Yes... and I'm very curios about the result. by the way... because I was doing that... the slop with the old chain was 25-30° with the new one it's about 10-15°.
  20. Kai-by-Vecona
    Hi Dodgeb4ya, that doesn't even calm me down....:-( But the dot on the opposite side is far more better as somewhere on the sprocket or two or three random dots .... :-)
  21. Kai-by-Vecona
    Hi Tod, I would really prefer doing it the easy way, but when I do it like everybody says including the book, my valves on #1 are open, so #6 is firing. In that 42 Dodge is a 1950 enginge and when I disassembled the timing chain, I found a plaque that said, there are oversized pistons in it so somebody has sometimes rebuild it. I don't know what kind of parts they used so maybe it has something to do with that and maybe it's not the original camshaft... I can only guess, fact is that the dot is on the opposit site.
  22. Kai-by-Vecona
    That's not that I don't trust you or the manual, I just see what is. I also can't imagine, that the dot is on the wrong place, but the facts tell me something else...O_o
  23. Kai-by-Vecona
    I did like ptwothree did with the difference that the dots line up but on opposite site like in the picture. If I would do it like Jeff told, I had to switch the distributor because both valves are open when the dots line up next to each other. We will see what happend when I start the engine :-)
  24. Kai-by-Vecona
    Yes.. crazy. I tought this is easy but it's the way it is. I turned the engine several times and had a look at the valves. By turning the engine you could see which valve is moving. They are closed when the marking is on the opposite site 0_o And like Dodgeb4ya said, you can't bolt the sprocket in any other position because the holes are not on a symetrical triangel. Think it's like mhawkins said, that the timing chain setup is maybe for another kind of engine or something. Hope to get all the other stuff assembled this week and I let you know what happend. If I guess right the worst thing is, that I have to flip the rotor 180°.
  25. Kai-by-Vecona
    So.... just to let you know. I checked the position of the valves and they are closed when the dot on the camshaft sprocket is on the opposit side. Seems, like the marks are wrong. Good to check twice :-)
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