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Kai-by-Vecona

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Everything posted by Kai-by-Vecona

  1. @ Jeff Yes, but when I installed it like ist was number 6 was fireing, so that's why I think the marking on the sprocket is on the opposite position @ Dodgeb4ya As I understand my manual, when both markings are next to each other cam, piston and distributor are in firing position. But my setup was in firing position when I disassembled it and when I installed the new one, the dot was on the opposite site so that's why I think the marking is 180° offset. I check if both valves are closed, then I set distributor on #1 if they are both open I set the distributor on #6. Thanks for the help
  2. No... I didn't turn them. I checked the slop as discrobed and then I disassembled the timing chain. I didn't turn anything because I don't want to have any trouble installing the new one. But when I did yesterday, the only way to install the new camshaft sprocket was in opposite of the dot. Now I don't know if the dot is on the wrong position of the sproket or if theres something completey wrong. When I turn the camshaft so the dots match like described in the manual, the rotor of my distributor point on cylinder 6. That's what makes no sense to me....
  3. if I'm right, the only possibility to check if that's right is to remove the valve cover and have a look if number one valves are both open or closed....
  4. I know, that's why I turned the camshaft 180° so the points match. But then, the distributor points to cylinder 6. I fliped the distributor so now all markings are right, but as I told before when I disassembled the timing chain, distributor was on cylinder one and I didn't turn the crank- or camshaft. So now I couldn't imagine, how the engine ever run or... because I turned the camshaft 180° the engine won't run any more though all the markings match....
  5. So... parts afre here and yesterday I started to install the new timing chain and I have a small miracle. The old sprockets have no markings so I looked at the distributor, set engine on Number one and removed everything. When I tried yesterday to install the new sprockets, the only way to install the one from the camshaft was a half turn more (See picture). When I see it right, I could turn the crankshaft 360° then the markings match, but then the distributor shows at number 6. When I remove the distributer, turn it 180° and put it back in, then everything seems to be right, but if I think right, the camshaft is not to fire at one as it might be number six. In that constellation I couldn't imagine how the engine ever could run or ist it possible, that the marking on the camshaft sprocket is wrong? I'm a little bit confused.....
  6. Of course, but engine is already into pieces. So I will take the time waiting for the parts to rebulild the distributor. Spring is coming and I want to have it on the street asap :-) Second distributer is worse then the one I want to rebulild so it's just an backup.
  7. No worries... there must be enough room for fun. If not, it wouldn't be a hobby, it would be your second boss or something else that keeps you away from doing things you want to do for fun. Problem is, it always take so long until things arrive in Germany, but the sleeve is from here so I hope it will arrive monday. By the way, at the same company I found the bushings with the same dimenions used in the distributor. Because the play in the shaft was more than allowed I installed electronic ignition because I heard it doesn't bother so much. But now with all the parts ripped off and having a second spare distributer I will try to install new bushings and have a look if this has an effect. Only thin is, when I completed the engine I can't say if it's because of the timing chain or the distributer shaft play :-( Kai
  8. I would prefer to see the steak on my barbecue, the cow hide made to my shoes or jacket and let the neoprene do the sealing job :-)
  9. Hello Andy, that sounds great. I also found that the SKF 99218 might fit and the best thing, I get it here in Germany :-) I also prefer neoprene seals. Leather might be original but I want to drive the car not only repair it and have a look for oil leaks. There might be a reason why there are no leather seals any more :-) Thanks for the help Kai
  10. @ Jeff .. Of course I will let you know. I'm also very curios if this will help. @ andyd .. I also made a little research and found out, the the measurements seems to be the same, there might only be changes in the material or construction of it. I also think about installung a speedy sleeve because the pulley is very uneven. Did that work fine?
  11. Hello Andy, I'm sure that it's a Dodge engine becauseI already changed the head gasket and it fits :-) My problem is, that they changed something on the oil seal aftrer the war and I don't know if the after war chain cover is installed or the one from the original enginge. But when i google the number I found that it's interchangeable with 1064730 1087608. And when I look for these numbers it show's that it might be a 46+ engine. So I will try to order this one and hope it will fit :-) Thanks for the help Kai
  12. Hi, Engine is definetly a 1950. I bought the car in the US three years ago and it has just been in California and Texas so I think it's a US built 230. Thanks for the link. That looks good :-)
  13. Another question... ordering parts, I also want to install a new chain case cover oil seal. I saw and andy Bernbaum, that there are two different oil seals, one up to 42 and another from 46+. Problem is, that my car is a 42 but the block is from 1950. Now I don't know if they just used a new block and installed the old parts or they used a complete engline. On the old oil seal is a number wich shows 1088602. Does anyone has an idea if this is the 42 one or the one for the newer engine?
  14. Today I found the time to have a look at the timing chain and sprockets and it really shows some wear but I didn't know if this would resuslt in such a slop. I don't know if the chain could also be lengthend a little bit but I think I'm going to order some parts,...
  15. I guess not. I did a valve job before and everything looks fine. Think if a valve is hanging up it might look different as the others.. or gets burned if its an exhaust valve...
  16. There's no slop in the pulley. I checked that just to be sure. Also when I add up a gap in the distributor plat and oil pump, I think about 30° seems to be a little bit too much slop. So I will try to install a new one. Crank pulley nut seems to be a 1 11/16. Thanks for the help.
  17. So... long time until last post but I was busy and didn't find the time to look at the car. I made the test of the chain slop and it shows about 25-30° until the rotor starts turning or about more than 1 inch of the crank pulley movement. Look like I should have a better look at the chain. Does anyone know the size of the tool for the crank pulley nut? Ist it 1" 5/8? Kai
  18. @soth122003: Uninstalled the generator today and everything looks fine. Also brushes have good contact and they look quite good. Seems to be something else. @Plymouth Adams. Is there are maximum of degrees that is normal for the slop? Thanks for the tip and a happy new year Kai
  19. Thanks for the tip!
  20. @Dodgeb4ya. That's what I mean. I just will have a look. I think it should be easy to see if the chain or sprocket is worn. @suntennis. I tried to adjust it but maybe it's worth a second look Thanks
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