mlozier76

Here is a pretty good definition of Ohm's Law.http://diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/Ohms-Law/ When I learned it in aviation they used E where V was for electrons or potential energy, which made a little better acronym: P=iE, E=Ri, R=E/i, AND P=i^2(SQUARED) X R. Remember P= Watts (Power), E or V = Volts, i = Amps (Current flow), and R = Resistance (ohms). I simply used lower case I because it looks like a 1 otherwise.

Do you hear a light tapping sound from the motor when it is not producing power? The car runs good on flatter ground until power is needed (ie hard acceleration or long uphill travel). I had a similar thing happen to me this weekend when trying to power up the large hills around here. My points were not quite adjusted right. When the vacuum advance tried to adjust the timing it pulled the points too far away and wouldn't make good contact. I could hear the points tapping. You may want to check that out.

So I had my 48 Dodge on the road this past weekend, first time in 46 years since she drove more than around the block. I took her on about a 100 mile round trip trek to Palouse,Wa for our car show last weekend. I put some fuel in it earlier in the week (about 10 gallons) and drove it all week to work to try and work out any bugs before I took her up our 7 mile long 7 percent grade. When I went to put fuel in Friday night the fuel Gauge was reading almost empty, but she only took 7 gallons, and was full up the neck. The problem is the gauge when full is pegged and steady at HALF. I haven't yet been able to look into it with the manual, but intend to sometime this weekend. Is there a chance that sender installed is 12v, and that's why its reading half? I have done a lot to make her roadworthy, and she runs well. My goal is to driver her to Spokane in two weeks for Swamp Stomp, which is about a two hour drive. I would really like to have a properly working fuel gauge. Any ideas? I will definitely be delving into it Thursday or this weekend one way or another. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Found 1 application for your YF4368S as of now, it was used on 1st Camaros with either the 230 or 250 engine with automatic transmissions. Hope it helps.

Per the Carburetor Doctor, the carb kit for your YF carburetor would be a CK45 with a float F17. Napa #CRB 25354. That carb is listed as GM and Ford. I had a YF4339S on my car when I purchased it, and it drove, but was definitely not right. The numbers in the center (4368) tell you what carb kit to look for in the books. I have been unable to find which type of cars/engines that your carb is designed for at this time. I'll try to figure it out, if you decide to sell it or just to know. By the way, I'm not trying to push one kit or another, just trying to help give options.

PULLMAN, Wa, That's my neck of the woods. By the way, a lot of times those double headed studs are used for mounting spray shields or shrouds, not sure if that is the reasoning for your application. I just got a Shanafelt Dual intake with two carbs mounted on it for my 48 this past weekend at the Portland Swap Meet via a friend who was looking out for me.

My parents live in Ann Arbor, one of these days I would love to drive my Dodge from Idaho to there, and do the Woodward Cruise and Gilmore Museum, near Kalamazoo.

I was talking to a retired salvage yard guy yesterday, and he told me that some of the late 70's Chrysler Cordoba front clips are a boltup for the Dodge D24, don't know if it would be interchangeable with the Plymouth. He had a couple there, but didn't have a chance to look at the specs vs the 3 D24s he had in the yard. I may take a look at them when I go up in a month or so to pull my inner fender and engine that I reserved with him.

This may sound silly, but did you have your fuel supply higher than the pump? If so, it may not have been able to develop enough vacuum to begin the suck before it encountered an air bubble.

My first Driftbuster or Beater with a heater, as my brothers and I called them growing up in Michigan was actually very nice 1976 Plyouth Fury we got for $300 from a little old lady at Church because she couldn't back it out of her tiny garage anymore . AM radio in high school listening to Rush Limbaugh, 'cause its all we could get. We had a lot of fun in "Big Red" as we called it over the years. What a great car, we piled a bunch of people in it one summer and drove it over to Lake Michigan and got it stuck in the sand. Took everything we had for 5 of us to push it enough to get any traction.

Let me start off by saying, that I really love my Dodge...But I really don't care much for the front girlle. I don't want to destroy what I do have on it because I want to keep all the original parts available to me if I decide to go back to stock. I was wondering if anybody had tried to put a grille from a 1950 Coronet or the 1949 Dodge Wayfarer on the 1948 D24. I really don't want to stray too much from the badge, but do know that I am probably going to modify at some point. I do like the the looks of my car better with a fulton visor as original, and will definitely be sporting one as I believe it detracts from the milk crate grille. I'm not trying to offend, I just think its a little too uninspired for my liking. The Wayfarers that I've seen are much better, in my opinion.

Are you guys running with a group 1 or a group 2 battery? Stock I believe is a group 2, but the group 1 has more cranking amps, so I am going to build a smaller bracket, as the group 1 is smaller and I only have the lower tray at this time.

Looks like this unit. It would need to be mounted, but is what I had in mind for mine.

I work in a heavy truck shop and the ones they use, and I will be putting on my car are rated for 6-36V. I just have to figure out where I'm going to mount it. There are two options we use: Cole Hersee p/n: 2484 or Pollak 51-902PF. There are also variations through Cole Hersee that have removable keys, if you're looking for that extra security.

That is a very nice looking car. Nice looking coaster for your beer.

Thank you very much for your help. I could have created more problems. I will take a look at that when I get home.

I should have gotten them from a local place, they were $2 a piece. I mainly did it for ease, as I was already on the phone with them.

Honestly I have never had much luck with easy outs, either style in the cast parts, engine block or manifolds. I had 3 studs broken in the block and 3 in the intake manifold, that's why I had to get the vintage power wagons bolt kit with stainless bolts for the manifold. I ended up welding nuts and washers on until I could extract all of the broken studs. I didn't have access to a torch, but I like that idea and believe I will try that on it. I really should have done it while I had the manifold off earlier. I simply forgot about that one.

I was working on the flathead last night, putting in new manifold studs that I got from vintage power wagons when I realized that one of the studs that hold down the automatic choke on the manifold had broken. When I went to try to start the engine, it started arcing where the unit had the broken stud. I removed the wire, but now question how easily my car will start. I have a weak battery and bad wiring (cracked insulation). I plan to go hard at them both this weekend, assuming I can get all the terminal ends for my wiring. Has anybody either run without the automatic choke, or replaced it? How readily available is it and/or could you please help with an idea where to find one? The gasket that was underneath is pretty much toast, and I don't know if that will affect the operation.

LOL, not an electric car, (though I do respect that engineering too) that term I believe goes also to England, but I've never really been there . They call themselves the Knucklescraperz. They are in Eastern Washington and Idaho. They have their "drivers", which are a lot of the ones that are shown on their website, but also some have their projects which are much different. Old skool, comes to mind, but I'm not Old Skool. We still have a lot in common because we speak the same language, cars. Not really too hard to join as far as I can tell, but it's a "have to have a sponsor" type club. When I went to College in Texas at Letourneau University, I was a pledge in the Letourneau Automotive Society, and I liken it to that. Basically, a group of guys and gals, that have similar interests. I grew up in Battle Creek and Graduated from Marshall High.

So... I had the police officer come by my house today because I needed to have the VIN inspected so I can finally get the 48 back on the road, hopefully very soon. As he was checking the VIN I showed him when the last officer (which, funny thing, was him) checked it '07 and it had only registered 3 miles since then. I then saw that the car was last titled one State over in 1969, and I did a little math... That was almost 50 years ago. Its hard to believe that my car is almost 70 years old, and probably runs as well as some newer cars. I really hope to have it on the road soon, maybe by the end of the week though it won't be sporting any paint... and love it when someone gets a long dormant car a second chance at life. The Car Club I'm in the process of trying to join is instrumental in kicking me in the shorts to get it moving finally. We tend to be a younger crowd and a lot of our cars have the patina finish, and fall in the category of street rod, or custom, but don't ever call them a billet barge!! They give me hell because I was defensive when they called my Dodge a Plymouth, and most of them have old Chevy's or Mixed hot rods. Many thanks to this website and the members who have helped me on my journey that surely is nowhere near done. Be proud of what you do with your cars, by keeping them on the road we are preserving history. Though we may not all share the same vision of our vehicles, we all share that same goal. I grew up in Michigan, and must have had too much of that water when I was a kid because I love the smell of gasoline, diesel, transmission fluid, gear oil and grease. I especially love sound that these old inline engines make when they are driving around. I go for the slightly custom, mainly because I can't afford to go OE on most of the parts. Let's do our part to help our younger generations understand and keep that pride in American Made, as so many have lost that in this Global Economy...Okay, I'm not going to put this into politics, I am just a proud American Veteran, and it comes out too often.... Keep Motoring.

I guess what I meant is that solenoid generally affects or causes movement, whether mechanical or electrical. Yet another area where terminology, or word usage matters.

Also a relay tends to have the ability of using a smaller signal amperage (smaller wiring) to activate a larger amperage circuit. Solenoid Valves transfer any fluid medium (i.e. electrons, water, air), whereas Solenoids generally employ mechanical or electrical movement. I used to work on large equipment and currently work selling parts to heavy truck guys, and terminology can be extremely confusing and can seriously mess up parts ordering.

Oh man that brings back some memories. The ones I drove in Iraq and Kuwait were an older M35A2, with the super skinny widowmaker rims and dually, not a bit of power steering....My forearms got pretty big in the sandbox. I've always wanted to get one of those, but don't have the land to warrant it. Love the look with the super singles and the box. It makes it look like one bad a#$ pickup truck. Not like those Ford or GMC Kodiak Wannabees.