gtech636p

Thanks for the reply. My weekend down here is pretty much used up, this will have to wait a little while longer still. I do appreciate the amount of frustration in your post, I must be doing the same thing just not as thorough right now. I was able to find the clips from a VW Beetle type supplier on ebay for much cheaper than the Dodge suppliers want. At least that makes the process a little less expensive if errors do happen. The channel section I do have is hanging from a joist right now in an attempt to straighten it a little bit too.

48

I bought some window channel a little while ago that came coiled up. I tried to straighten the channel as much as possible before installation, but it wasn't great. I had C-shaped metal clips that went in the door channels and that had teeth to grip on the rubber channel material itself. The clips themselves were very brittle and half of the stampoed tangs used for securing the clip on the door frame itself snapped when I tried to push them in place. I believe the channel came from DCM and the clips from VPW. First: Are there different suppliers for the window channel itself? I see restorationspecialties mentioned from time to time, but the dimensions of their products seem to match what I bought. Does someone have a part number they know worked great? Second: Getting the channel into the door was difficult. When the rubber channel was pushed into the teeth of the clip the channel didn't really stay in place, it could be removed very easily. When completed the portion of the rubber channel going across the top of the door didn't stay straight and sagged downwards a little bit. When being rolled up the window could not make it's way into the horizontal (top) portion either. Rolling the window down had the same issues once the window met the rubber channel that is pushed into the bolted in metal support. Is there a different install method I'm not getting? Is everyone using the 3M adhesive and just putting the rubber channel into a puddle of that? does the rubber channel itself need to be "opened" up before putting it in the door frame? Obviously I failed at this. Any tips or pointers out there? The truck is a bit away from me and I'm trying to get everything together for another attempt in a few weeks.

Are these available anywhere? This solves the issue of mounting the front of the running boards that I had no clue on before now.

I've finally gotten around to trying to work on the B1B again. I have an XJ master cylinder bolted up and put the pedals in the floorboard last weekend. I got around to trying to find the pushrod for the master cylinder but got distracted and didn't complete the task. Unfortunately, the truck is ~ 7 hours away again. The original pushrod is available, but I wanted to check what everyone else used before I put everything into the original pushrod. Another slightly related question, to those who performed the swap before, did you cut some of the "guide" for the pushrod on the front of the XJ master cylinder or leave it in place? Any help is appreciated.

Got it! Removed door, put a 2x4 on the edge and heated the middle of the hinge up for about a minute. Hit the hinge a few times with the sledge and changed the angle a good bit. The door opening needed a little encouragement to be square as well, and the floor riser between the running board and floor was poking out about 1/8" causing binding when closing. When all was addressed the door shut nice and smoothly. The gap might not be perfect, but I'm not claiming a professional restoration either.

I hung a door on a 48 B1B cab today. While I didn't expect perfection, I can't figure out how to fix what did show up. Everywhere EXCEPT the bottom latch side fits in the opening. The bottom latch part of the door hits the cab sheet metal by 1/16" or so. I have read a copy of the old manual that says to put wood here or there and push. The only issue I have is that I can't figure out how to get to the hinges in a straightforward way. Currently I'm thinking to open the door half way and hit the lower hinge with a sledge hammer somehow? The hinge only needs to move about 1/16", but how do you get to that more "professionally". I'd like to think you could put a cheater bar across the hinge plate and pry away but couldn't figure it out while I was looking at the hinge. Anyone have a better method?? I'm all ears, but the truck is 7 hours and three weekends away from me right now.

Sadly, this is what I thought I would hear... I guess it's time to see if I can get this figured out. Thanks for the replies.

I've got a '48 B1B and am getting ready to try and finish the front end off. My current fenders are a bit past prime at the bottom rear carriage bolt area. My plan when I first started putting things back together was to get a set of fiberglass fenders, but bebops doesn't seem to make them anymore. Short of me actually learning how to do a little bit of metalwork, is there a better option to source fenders for this truck? edit::I just noticed I asked the same thing sometime last year.... has anything changed?

Does anyone make fiberglass repops for B1B trucks? I believe I remember seeing them a while ago on Horkey's site, but they're no longer available. I've emailed Be-bop's and their mold seems to need work and aren't planning on making another run in the near future... anyone else to look for?

Yup. The blue arrows.

Unfortunately, I was trying to describing the parts on the hood itself. Your arrows are in the right place, just move further back in the picture.

I'm really bad about reading the first response and then not following up on threads... for now I decided to just patch the hood material and leave the bracing alone. I did receive a question about what I was referring to, and I may be breaking rules by hotlinking pics that don't belong to me, but I was trying to refer to the underhood braces seen in the pic below:

The supports that go from the center of the hood to the edges. Mine are rusted fairly heavily and have actually contributed to the holes in the sides of my hood. The rusted metal has been cut out ans is slated to be replaced, but are the braces under the hood remanned anywhere? I'd like to replace these at the same time.

I just got covers for the seat in my '48 B1B and, well... they're about 2" short on either side when compared to the frames. I do have the "air ride" seat frame and figured I would stop in here to see if all frames were made equal in '48 before I brought it up to the supplier. I do understand it should stretch a little bit, but this would have to be spandex to make the cover fit on the current frame...