Bingster

Actually, I just looked and didn't see the latch lower base plate listed.

Is the hood catch base plate (that has the spring catch which locks the upper latch) a natuural metal from the factory? I removed and sandblasted the one on my '47 Desoto and to protect the metal primed it with Rustoleum. I suppose I could pait it aluminum.

Did you topcoat the Rust Encapsalator? That was Eastwood's?

Anybody had any experience with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and Extreme Chassis Black vs. Rustoleum? It seems to me after using Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator and Rustoleum's primer that the Rustoleum held up better under very humid conditions than did the Eastwood. Now, I will say that when I topcoated with Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black Gloss, no rust pitting came through the finish. But the Rustoleum primer doesn't have any rust pitting coming through under the same conditions that pitted the Wastwood Rust Encapsulator. As for the topcoat, is Rustoleum's Gloss Black just as good or better than Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black? It also seems that sandblasting a sheet metal panel or part is the key to preventing that rust pitting coming back through the primer.

And no, I cannot tell the size of a bolt just by looking at it!

Rockler Woodworking sells what they call "The Thread Detective" which is a set of plastic balls (metric or standard available) with a male extension on one side and female on the other. With these it's a snap to remove a bolt or nut and match it up to see what it is. I cross referenced some bolts with my Desoto parts book and they were a perfect match. Only about $12.00 or so.

In replacing old bolts, is it okay to replace them with stainless or will there be any problems?

What do you think is the advantage of baked parts over air dry? Does the paint dry harder? I know it dries faster.

Grain-It would be my choice. I got the videos and it looks to be a lot easier than first thought. I'm going that route for my '47 Desoto interior.

Yeah, I might do that plus the engine compartment and headlight wells, etc. I chose gloss for the underbody stuff becasue I feel that gloss repels dust and crud better and is easier to wash off.

No, it was my fault. I MEANT to order gloss but ordered satin instead.

Well, because I'd have to pay double shipping - to and return - and the paint would end up costing me far more than if I'd pay full price for it.

I just bought four spray cans of Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black but got satin instead of gloss by mistake. The cans were on an email sale at $12.95 per can which is about seven dollars a can off normal pricing. It's great paint. I'm using it on my '47 Desoto sheets metal and suspension parts. But I want gloss. If anybody's interested (I haven't even recieved it yet!) I'll sell it for the same amount I paid for the cans - $63.91 - and that includes the shipping.

I'm ready to send off my brake cylinders and master cylinder for re-sleeving on my '47 Desoto, and would like some imput as to the better shops. I know there is Apple and Sierra that have had some good reviews here. But Sierra seemed to say that I had to supply the rebuild kits. I would like them sent back ready to mount and have them supply all parts. Input???

Okay, that's why I don't want to leave Neil negative feedback over a photocopy booklet. He sells mainly parts as far as I know and it does seem pansy-*** to bring his rating down over this booklet. Now, if it were a part that was pitted and not what was advertised then that's another story. And you're right. I knew it was a photocopy and you take a chance. And yes, it is better than nothing to go by. I can now see on ebay what is OEM and what is aftermarket. And there are numbers. Maybe I expected too much. My wife says I do!!

I'm not sure I fully understand that last post. What is the OPC and VAP? Can you clearify or rephrase your statement?

Yeah, okay.You have a good point. But by the same token, if you're going to do something like that booklet, give the project to somebody who knows how best to do it. All I'm saying is that it could have been done better for maybe not too much extra money or none at all. Machine settings, etc.

You know, he does have a good reputation it seems. I think this is a case of a person who had a good idea but didn't execute it well. I've done a lot with PR and copying and I know it could have been done better. But I don't want to mess up his ebay rating cause I do think this booklet is probably the best he could do. And, because I have bought and probably will buy more parts from him and it'sot worth messing up my standing over a twenty buck booklet.

Anyone buy one of those Mopar Accessory Catalog reprints on ebay? I just received mine and while it is nice to have these things listed and documented, the photocopy reproduction wasn't too good. Some of the items I could barely make out, being only an outline and washed out. For twenty bucks I expected better.

I just finished reading a new book called Freedom's Forge which describes in great detail how American industry won WWII for us. The automotive industry is featured prominently because it was one incredible man named Bill Knudsen - an immigrant - who had cut his teeth at Ford and Model T's and went over to Chevrolet to turn that company around in it's infancy. FDR went to Knudsen when Britain and France needed war materials to get American industry converted to producing everything for war. It's a very nuts and bolts book - literally - because it describes early auto production and how it was done, and how that eventually became how ships, planes, tanks, etc. etc. were also built. Amazing book.

I was told by somebody on this forum about this place he had his chrome done. Tallahassee Florida - Pot Metal Restoration

Thanks for the input. The car's finish is not an issue and a California Cover may be more than I need right now. The ground tarp is an excellent idea. Midwest weather is tough on houses and cars.

I live in Iowa where we get a lot of humidity. Last year my car was stored in a large, closed metal building where it got so humid inside it was wet, and rust formed on certain parts of the car. I now have the car in a metal building that has no door as of yet, and have been covering the car with blue tarps to protect it from wind and rain, then uncovering it in good weather to circulate air underneath it. But I was wondering the wisdom of covering the car in humid weather, if it might not hold it in under the tarp and be worse, especially the interior. Any thoughts?

Any particular grit or however they rate those 3M discs?

Yeah, the guy at NW Transmission was very knowledgable and also said these fluid drives were very well built and seemed a little surprised that mine needed rebuilding. Actually, I don't know yet if it does or not, but I'm just checking around in case. He said a new seal would be more likely the problem a FD would have. He even knew that they changed seal types on the Desotos ( and I guess the other cars as well) during the post war years before the newer '49 models.