Chuck51631

Bob, My thoughts and prayers are with you. After reading many post on this site and the Plymouth owners club site I fell that we are friends. I wish you all the best and a speedy recovery. We are all part of the Mopar family.

Sorry to hear of your loss. My Mother passed in 2006. I still think of her everyday. I always remember the good times and forget the bad. This may sound strange but after my Mother passed we planned a Birthday Party for her instead of a wake. At first people thought I was crazy. I told them it is their choice, if they wanted to attend or not. At the start I wished my Mother a Happy Birthday in Heaven. We started talking and sharing special times we had with my mother. There was music, food, and a good time was had by all. This helped get over my loss. I found out some interesting things I never knew about my Mother.

I used to be a member of both clubs. Now I am only a member of the Plymouth Owners Club. They have a great magazine called the Plymouth Bulletin. I don't know much about their car shows. It seems they are far and few from where I live. I do enjoy reading the Plymouth Bulletin. They come up with some interesting articles, many things I never knew about my car. They also list cars, parts, literature, and people that deal with parts producers and suppliers. This club also has a website, much like this one. I have to admit this site seems to be more popular. Just my 2 cents, Chuck

Welcome to the site! You will find alot of information on here both in the forum and maintaince sections. Having the parts book and service manual for the car are a great help also. As for ebay be careful. I have seen parts listed wrong. Cars prior to 1956 are all 6 volt positive ground (unless someone changed it to a 12 volt system). I have seen people trying to sell 12 volt starters, generators, radio's voltage regulators stating they will fit a 55 Plymouth. 55 Plymouth had a 6 volt system. Good places to buy parts from are: NAPA auto parts if you can find one that still uses a catalog. Our cars are too old to be listed in the computer and you don't pay for shipping. On line try Rock Auto, Andy Bernbaum. I have dealt with them in the past and never had a problem. Good luck with your project, take your time and enjoy it. Thank You for keeping another MOPAR from the scrap yard and helping to keep automotive history alive!

I agree with Alshere59. Since the carb was rebuilt not too long ago and doesn't have that many miles on it. My motto is never go below a half a tank of gas. First the tanks are old and have rust sediment in them second you never know how accuart your fuel guage is. I had no problem going to NAPA and getting a rebuilding kit for my car. They usually grumble since the car is not listed in their computer. A good counter person will have no problem looking it up in their parts books.

You are in my thoughts and prayers. I have been reading about the wayback machine for quite awhile and look forward to the stories. I wish you a quick recovery and many more years with the wayback machine.

Why do we spend the money? Simple, we enjoy our cars. I also like to think, it is my way of preserving our automotive history. If we all gave up our hobby, Plymouth, DeSoto, Rambler, Studebaker, Hudson, Nash, Mercury, Pontiac and the list goes on would be forgotten.

The only time I drive on gravel roads is when I go to car shows. The manufacturer claims you can hit it with a hammer and it won't chip. I have not tried that.

The Pro's and Con's. When I used standard DOT3 brake fluid I was always replacing wheel cylinders due to rust or leakage every 2 to 3 years since the car was not driven much. After replacing the brakelines, wheel cylinders, flexable brake lines and master cylinder (since I was doing a major brake job I converted to a dual master cylinder). Flushed they system with alcohol just incase the rebuilt parts had any DOT 3 brake fluid in them. Filled the system with DOT5 brake fluid. It has been 7 years and no brake problems. Every year I pull the brake drums and no leakage or locking wheel cylinders.

When I cleaned the underside of my car I found some surface rust. I came across a product in Hemmings called Miracle Paint. I applied it and it has held up for over 10 years. no more rust. I also did inside the wheel wells and no chips from rocks or stones.

I just had my rear pinion seal replaced. I watched the mechanic do it. He tried the air gun and the nut wouldn't budge. He sprayed it with what I assume is BP blaster waited about 10 minutes. Put the socket on the nut took a hammer gave it a few whacks and then with the air gun the nut came off. Getting the old seal out was another problem, it didn't want to come out. He went at it with a screwdriver and hammer and it came out. He put a small amount of lube on the new one and in it went. Thankfully no more leaks. I guess he had the advantage. The car was on a lift. He is a friend of mine and tried to do it in his driveway to no avail. Unfortunately he had to take it to the shop where he works. The work was done there.

Whenever I changed a generator I never had to polarize anything. The only time you polarize the system is when you change the regulator. I have to agree with Tod you could have another bad regulator. The regulator is like a switch, when the battery is fully charged it turns off the generator, when the battery starts to drain due to using lights, radio, heater etc. it turns back on so the generator charges the battery again.

Hi Fellow Mopar Owners, I had my 55 Plymouth in the shop the other day. While it was on the lift I asked the mechanic to lubricate the rear wheel bearings. I once read in a service manual they need to be greased at least once a year. He told me the rear axel fluid lubricates the rear wheel bearings. What information is correct? If they do need seperate lubrication, how do I get the wheel bearing grease in there? Do I have to pull the rear axels out? Any help is appriciated. Thank You, Chuck

Port Saint Lucie Florida. Also known as the Treasure Coast

Does anyone know the best way to strip a car down to bare metal? Money is limited so I am thinking of this as a do it yourself project before sending it to the shop for painting. I have been told that sanding is the best method. I have been told sand blasting warps metal. I have been told chemical strippers damages rubber and plastic parts. Any advice is welcome. Thank You for taking the time to respond. Chuck

I also added radial tires on stock rims.

Thank You all for your responses! I had the car on I-95 today it had no problems at 65-70mph. The posted speed limit. What amazed me is she could have and wanted to go faster. The point Todd made about points, condensor, and rotor made sence. I am going to pick up an extra set just to have them in the car in case of emergency. I had my brakes updated years ago. a dual master cylinder all new brake lines and silicone brake fluid. I also have radial tires on the car and the front end has new king pins and tie rod ends. A wheel alignment was done after the front end work. I am planning on attending a car show next month with my car. Thanks again, Chuck

My car is all orignal, engine, transmission and rear differential are the one's Plymouth installed when the car was built. I can tell you I am in third gear by 25 mph. The engine is strong, does not burn any oil. I usually change the oil every 500- 1000 miles. It is usually clean when I drain it. I feel better safe than sorry. I do not drive the car much during the summer. too hot and no air conditioning. I will start out early take my time and keep the speed at 55-60 mph. I never had this problem up north, speed limits are still 55 mph.

When our cars were built the speed limit was about 45 mph. I now live in Florida where the speed limit on the interstate is 70 mph. Most drive faster than that. I have had my car up to 60 mph. It wants to go faster but at 60 the motor sounds like it is ready to come thru the hood. I always maintain the engine, use 30w oil. I have radial tires on the car and the front suspension has been rebuilt. Would it be safe to drive distances at high speeds? Will I do damage to the engine? I am missing out on going to alot of car shows since they are not in my area. Any feedback is appriciated. Thank You in advance for taking the time to reply. Chuck

Andy Bernbaum sold the business. When you call in they answer the phone Bernbaum. I have dealt with them many times over the years. As a matter of fact I received my rear pinion seal today from them. I have never had a problem with them. They now have a catalog on their website. I was also told you will be able to order parts on the website in the near future. So if the gruff voice on the other end of the phone bothers you you will have another way of ordering.

How hard is it to replace the rear pinion seal on a 55 Plymouth? Are there any special tools needed to complete this job? Thank you for taking the time to read this and for any replys.