CNP934DC

Had my 48 2dr sedan listed for sale. Car has been sold. Thanks for all who took the time to look. Been a great resource coming to this web site while I had the car. Thanks again. Good luck and good health to all.

Hmmm. Not interested in bikes but depends on how big the squirrels were.

Have had my Plymouth for sale for a while but no takers yet. I love my car. How come everybody else doesn't?? Asking $6200 but will accept reasonable offer. Questions to wayne.pursh@gencoatc.com. Located in Plum PA near Pittsburgh. Must sell, guys. Anybody out there/

Bought my battery tender at Advance Auto for under $20.00. Works fine, multi-volt so works for my 6v, automatic shut-off when charge is complete. Little yellow light when charging, little green light when charged and little red light if connection goes bad or a problem with battery is sensed (like plates not covered).

On e-bay there is usually a seller (business, not private party), that has new re-fabs of the trunk divider, I forget the name but they are in the Harrisburg PA area. Not a bad price but they only sell via e-bay and the shipping cost is a little steep because of the odd packaging required. Thought I'd mention in case you can'tlocate a pattern. Good luck. I'm gonna buy mine as soon as I can scrape up a few extra bucks.

I also bought my cowl lacing (and cowl vent gasket) from Andy B. Had trouble with the fit on the vent gasket but the lacing worked out great. Iwas even able to re-use the tap in screws that remained when I ripped the old lacing off. The screws came out with a simple tug with needle nose pliers.

After a year of messing with my horn and getting a lot of tips from this forum, I finally got the horn on my P-15 working. Some of the tests I did way back (as suggested here), included running a test wire from the horns directly to the battery and various other tests to test the relay. All the tests worked but when I hooked up all the wires....nothing! Last week I installed a new horn button wire that I found on e-bay and re-checked all the connections and ground. My neighbor came over (a real car guy) and asked if I tried adjusting the horns themselves. I said no, because all my tests worked fine. But he suggested that the power would be greater going straight to the battery than they would going through the relay.Sooooo, I took the horn covers off and while I pressed the horn ring he turned the adjusting screw in each of the horns and bingo!! :)Horns are working. If anybody out there has experienced the same problem I had, make sure you check the horn adjustment along with the other tests. God bless this forum and happy motoring.

Thanks, Tim. That's what I thought but never hurts to double check. As is the case in so many of the clutch posts on this forum, I'm getting a little grinding when shifting into 1st and reverse. I've tried shifting into second before changing gears as from a dead stop and that seems to work most of the time but I have way to much free play in the clutch pedal. Hoping extending the rod out a little solves the problem. If not, I'll probably be back on the forum.

When adjusting the clutch play, should the tranny be in neutral? It's been so long since I've messed with this stuff, I can't remember. Part of the aging process, I guess. Thanks to all on this forum! Always helpful.

Uh oh, dribbled some gasoline down the fender of my P-15. TRied to get it off quick but way too late. Left a haze on the paint. I've tried Maguires cleaner, polish and Mothers pre-wax cleaner. Haven't made the smudge any worse but no improvement. Anyone been successful at restoring the finish after a gasoline spill without re-painting?

Good luck with the horn. I've been messing with mine from time to time over th last year. First tested the horns by hot wiring and they worked great, but not with the horn button. Next, replaced the relay. Still no honk. Faint grunt from the horns and then some click click noise. Next, took the steering whell apart. Aha, someone had "made" their own connection to the brass T using small guage wire. Pulled the wire and touched to the T and got a spark. Reattached everything including jump wire to the ammeter. Then, no horn but my amp guage went flying into the negative zone. My next step is to replace the horn button wire with original set-up, not jury rigged. Found one on e-bay for $15. If this doesn't work, I'll just bypass everything and put a button under the dash. We can put a man on the moon but try to get a P-15 horn to blow. Sheesh!

Hey, In the posted instructions with pictures, I don't see any advice to drain the coolant before installing the repaired bulb. Oversight or can this be done without draining?

Thanks guys. I'm not on the forum often, but when I am I can always trust quick response and sound advice.

Finding more need for my own multimeter for electrical system checks, (voltage, amps , ohms). I saw one at Advance Auto but did not see selection for 6 vs 12 volts. Still have my P-15 in 6 volt mode so any advice as to type, manufacturer of multimeters?

I've had an ongoing issue with my horn as you may see from previous threads. I rewired my horns, coil connection, amp connection and installed a new relay. The last thing to do was to run a new wire down the column from the brass T at the horn ring area. Every test to blow those horns from battery to horn and from relay to horn, worked. The previous owner apparantly didn't have the original horn cable with the funny little cap on the end where it feeds through the T. He had the wire going through the T and into a metal grommet. The grommet had a non-metallic washer around it. After re-doing everything (except that horn cable which is jury rigged) I still can't get the horn to work properly. The amp guage goes daed negative when I hook everything up and hit the ring. My guess is the most critical piece of the puzzle is having a good cable up the steering column. I keep watching posts and EEEEEE-bay for an original cable. Nothing else on mine seems to be a problem. I even had the horn wire spitting sparks at me at one point. Needless to say, all is disconnected for now. I just yell out the window. Before long, I'll just install a button under the dash and be done with it.

Just received my copy of Classic Car. The description of driving that '50 sounds just like my P-15. Shifting, lean, braking. The personality of these cars was pretty consistent. Great read. Is the owner on this site?

In my high school days I drove a 60 Stooty Baker Lark before my first Plym. The Stooty was my Dad's car. Driving along I hear a bang and then a rapid clang, clang, clang from underneath. Turns out the Stooty had a cast iron transmission housing that protected the front universal joint and had a fitting where the speedo cable attached. The bang was the cast iron breaking apart and sliding to the rear of the drive shaft. The clanging was the speedo cable wrapping around the drive shaft and slamming against the floorboard underneath. I crawled underneath with a pair of side cutters that I had in the trunk, (just luck they were in my trunk), unwrapped the cable which was now shredded with razor sharp edges sticking out all over the place, and me with no gloves, and snipped the cable off short just to get home. Didn't tell Dad right away. He took the car out that evening and discovered blood on the seat, steering wheel, arm rest etc. and no working speedometer. After I explained, he sent me on a junk yard search mission to find replacement parts. Would have been easier if he asked me to find the Holy Grail.

Should look good on a '50 too. See the P-15 on my profile. Can't attch. File too large for the post.

That reminds me, my wife was driving along the rural road to our house one morning when she spotted a wild turkey standing off to the side. As she slowed to look at the bird, the thing took flight and landed on her hood. By then the car was stopped and the turkey was looking at her through the windshield. It tried to stand and wound up sliding off the hood. Nice scratches in freshly polished wax job. Wish she would have killed it. I never tasted wild turkey.......................not the eating kind anyway. I hear they're gamey and tough. Kinda like the wifey. Kidding of course.

I had a deer jump over a guard rail and run alongside me for about 20 feet as I slowed down. I was only doing about 30 at the time. Just as I was about to completely stop, the deer cut in front of me and I knocked him over. All you could see were 4 deer legs sticking up in the air. My car pool lady passenger was screaming "Is it Dead, Is it Dead!!!!!!!!!!!!????????". Just at that moment the deer scrambled to it feet, gave me a dirty look through the windshield and calmly walked back into the woods. Had a bad experience coming back from NC a few years ago though. In a '93 Chrysler, I got broadsided by a buck. Took out the power mirror, left front and rear doors. About $2,000 in body work later and a junk yard mirror I re-installed myself, was back on the road. Thankfully, no-one hurt except the deer.

Looks great. What coating are you using?

If one of those little screws that hold the T plate down is loose, or riding up because the threads are stripped, the screw head would probably bump into the horn ring, completing the circuit.

That helps, thanks. I have a part similar to that clip and a retainer. Sooooo, I have a funny feeling my relay wiring has something wrong going on. Gonna go back to the drawing board. I think the previous owner left me with incorrect connections. The way I'm set up right now, the circuit is completing as soon as the horn wire touches the T plate. I'm getting juice where I shouldn't be getting juice and vice versa. Gonna run my own wires. Horns and horn button are ok. It's the ignition and battery (coil) connects that may be at issue. Thanks for everybody's help on this. I have so many other more important chores to do on this car, but I thought this would be an easy fix and I could get one thing done on my list. Yeah, right. STILL HAVING FUN THOUGH.............:

Thanks. Any help would truly be appreciated. I have the diagram you posted. I wish there was a closer-in view of that contact and retainer. That is where my problem is. Don't know if the wire is sheathed where it comes through the T plate or if the retainer shown is metallic or not. I'm sure the wire or contact can't be in touch with the "T", because the horn ring should accoplish the connection. Hmmm. Unless I have the relay wiring screwed up somehow. But I've checked that over and over. "H" to horns, "B" to battery, "S" to horn button wire and the fourth connector to ignition which I have wired via the coil. That all seems ok because the horn doesn't blow with the key off.

Is the button piece non-metallic. I have the wire going through a short metal tube that slips into that T-shaped piece. As soon as the key is turned, the horn starts blowing. I'm completing the circuit without the aid of the horn ring. What is supposed to touch to what? Any thoughts?