46busboys

OK, to pinpoint if this is electrical or not and help pinpoint where it it coming from. Get yourself a timing light. hook it up. they usually will work on 6 volts. if not hook up to a spare 12 v battery. clamp on to each plug wire while pointing the light right into your face. do this to each plug wire, you should find the miss pretty quickly if it is electrical. the light will quit flashing in time to the miss. If it is not electrical ... pull each plug wire one at a time, see if the miss stops, this will pinpoint which cylinder it comes from. If not electrical I think I would consider a small valve leak. What do you mean by everything is new... points, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil.... then you talk about wires, rusty plugs and so on.... It is all new or it isn't. Do what I say above and you will find your problem.

Hmmm, I really don't see any noticible wobble or anything wierd on the HB, actually I am not even sure it is a HB and not solid.

Desoto- could you describe the symtoms you had and how you decided that was what caused it. looks like 200 bucks plus to get one rebuilt.

46 business coupe, 231 engine, I had assumed was factory installed, but just maybe a factory replacement as it has the correct engine number stamped on it. ( matches the one stamped on the rear frame ) At any rate I rebuilt the engine about 10 years ago, reground the crank, new pistons in stock bore, bearings and so on. the motor was installed and then the project stalled while other projects got in the way. Recently the project got road worthy, but I am trying to chase down some vibration issues. Before I tackle the driveline and such I believe the engine may have vibration issues. With the car at a stop the engine idles very smooth, rev to maybe 2000 rpm and the engine developes a bit of a vibration, 3000 rpm and the engine smooths out. Clutch in or clutch out-- same deal. Some would live with it but I don't like it. I believe this is the cause of the excessive vibration at 50 mph while driving the car. Any thoughts, will I need to pull the engine and have it all balanced?

Powerhouse, Sent you a PM

powerhouse, I might do that, I,ll yank mine again in the morning and check it again. I'll get back to you!!

Scruffy, thanks for all the input. Great choices, I'll check them out. I did polarize and all that. I will tear it down again this weekend for another check out, and meanwhile try to locate another one. I have a feeling the getting hot issue may have been a field coil short. ???

Thanks Don, might have to go that route, I was hoping to get something closer to the Tacoma Washington, Olympia area. Guess you can't get one off the shelf anymore. I still can't figure why it was fine before I replaced the bearings.

:mad:OK so where do you all go to get a 6v generator??? I pulled out my p-15 generator, it was getting hot and the bearings were making noise. Replaced the bearing and bushing, now I don't get anything on the output. It does motor, slowley. Does anybody still carry rebuilts??? I don't have a growler but it seems like it should work but don't

I am not aware that the truck starter is different than the car starter. so I am sorry to confuse the matter-----But no one on this thread said to jump 12 volts through the 6 volt battery. I suggested jumping to the ground cable attached to the battery, no big deal if it is attached or not. I run dual voltage on my P-15, stock 6 volt system and another 12 v negative ground in the trunk to power the electric seat and additional power to the starter when or if needed. usually never use it though, but is nice to be able to push that button in an emergency.

back in the early 80's I was a mechanic for a fleet of about 30 one ton ford box vans, all ran on propane. They ran a very heavy load on their daily travels. Brakes were a big problem but the biggest engine issues was valve recession. The Fords 351W and 460 engines didn't have hardened seats so when they needed it the heads were rebuilt with hard seats and put back on. The engines ran very very clean inside so the pistons and bearings received little wear. Because the engines would last a long time, timing chains needed changed out at 100,000 miles or so. The trucks all ran stock compression and did not run dual fuel. With one exception. I put together a 429 with 12 to 1 compression and ran it dual fuel. This went into a 4x4 F250. The truck ran very hard, with not much difference between gas or propane. All in all I think in a early mopar engine I would try to get the compression up and you should have good power, I think a stocker will be pretty slugish. A 5 gallon tank is not big enough or even legal. Needs to be DOT approved, safe and vented to the outside.

a very easy way to jumpstart with 12 volts and not have to disconnect any wires. Take your jumper cables and connect one lead to a good ground on the car. The battery or battery cable itself would be fine. Connect the other 12v lead to the terminal on the starter. It does not matter positive or negative to the starter. then connect the other leads to the good battery. When you make the last connection, the starter will spin, have the key on and do NOT touch the starter button on your dash. instant start.

yep, modern cars have many grounds. I grounded the body to the frame and the engine to the frame and body. With all new wiring ( correct size or better ) and new sockets ( extra grounding wire to body at each socket ) my lighting is nearly modern bright. I have no problems with them at all. P-15:):)

I used the cut to fit from Bernbaums, no issues...used weatherstrip cement to glue the joint. I would buy it again

Anyone?? maybe a photo of the rear upper corner of the fender

After being off for about 12 years, I have reinstalled my hood. I have a good half inch or more gap on the passenger side. The drivers side seem to be pretty good. I don't recall if the fender has any adjustment upward. ( does it?) I have read all that comes up in the search function, not much help there. I do have the hood brace in. How far does the upper rear corner of the fender come to the Stainless Trim on the body? Mine might be a bit low. I thought this was going to be a piece of cake.

I've shipped many cars to and from AK for under 1000 bucks. pm me if you want a good shipper.

Well I'm not saying anyone is out to get rich, but I can see spending an easy 15 grand and ending up with a 4 thousand dollar car......or as more likely spending 4 thousand, never getting a driving car out of it and sitting there waiting on the next guy. I think you would be way better off buying a 2500 dollar car from outside and shelling out a grand to ship it to AK. Then you would be starting with a bit more car. But just me. Good luck to you!!

I hate to be the butthead but keep it real..... The value of those cars in a mildly restored state will be much much lower that the amount of money it will take to get them in any kind of decent condition. These old mopars just don't command alot of dough. you might want to put some serious thought into those projects. Like I said I hate to be an ***, but I speak from many years experience. Someone needs to tell it like it is.......

Thanks Tim, got the vent off, everything repainted, gasket glued in place and all back together. No issues at all. I had my seat out so access was a breeze. If my car was not such a rust free example, I could see this could turn out to be a pain. BTW I used the rubber from Bernbaum, I had sitting around for a while, the kind you cut to fit. I see no issues using this type at all maybe even better than the stretch to fit style. Just have to seal the butt joint with 3M weatherstrip sealer.

Does the rubber glue to the lid or the body??? do you all take the vent portion completely off to install a new gasket?

Tim, I'm sorry I did not answer your PM to me, but due to life I haven't checked in for a while. Yes, I installed a WLS headliner in my BC and it absolutely looked fantastic. took half a day or so. The shop said to glue in the bottom piece but I did it a bit different. Straighten out the pointy grab hooks first. I had most of the upper portion pretty tight and pulled the bottom piece where the wire would go below the window. Then I placed the wire over cloth and pushed the cloth into the point hooks the would normally grab the wire. Then I used the wooden handle of a hammer to reach in and bend the hooks over the wire. Slowly working back and forth one clip at a time. When all finished I then cut out for the back window and worked it on to the little hooks.I used glue here around the window area. be careful here dont get the cloth to far into where the window rubber has to go or you will have to cut and trim to get the window back in. Then install the rear window. I would not try to install the headliner with the rear window in. The only issues I had with this headliner was the B piller covers were not quite long enough, so I just folded some scrap pieces and blended them in. This is the first time I ever installed a headliner ( put it off for ten years ) and I do not think a pro job would look any better. Looking back I don't think a 6th loop will help you as it would have to be sewn in the perfect place with no where to adjust if it wasn't. Once you reinstall the rear cover over the package shelf it will fill in the sail cloth area pretty well and push against the cloth where it wasn't clipped to anything. sounds like a pain in the *** but really this area went pretty fast. also when you glue to the front window edge only glue back an inch or it will show up looking funny when finished.

Thats pretty much how I made replacements for my Radio buttons - and then applied a bit of cream colored Urethane paint

I just bought one from Bernbaum's ---- it was a perfect replica, and rubber was good.

Early 46 had the serial number on the passinger side A post. Got one in the garage