splat1955

I recently had to get back under my dash. I'd gotten under there about 3 months ago to do some troubleshooting recommended by another member here. I'm not tall, but I am wide. Getting under the dash was a pain. At the same time, whenever I drove the car I didn't like the fact that the seat didn't go further back...I felt too close to the steering wheel. So a few days later I pulled the front seat out....that took about 5 minutes. I spent the next couple of days making some plates about 2 inches wide and 4 inches long that bolted to the original mounts in the floor. Drilled & tapped holes matching the seat mounts about 3 inches back on the plates. Now my seat sits comfortably for me....and it's easy to pull out. So, a week ago I had to get back under the dash...pulled the seat, threw an old thick blanket on the floorboard that I keep in the garage for just this kind of thing....man, it was way more comfortable than with having the seat in the car....My Daughter brought me a pillow so I could prop my head up and I used my craftsman ball cap that has a couple, 3 I think, LED's built in. Put on some goggles and grabbed the air hose from my compressor...my daughter got in the other side with my shop vac turned on and we went to town...I blew the dust while she sucked it up with the vac. Got it pretty clean under there. But I wouldn't have been able to be comfortable enough to lay there that long if I hadn't removed the seat. I agree with the other member here that suggested putting on some music, take the seat out and just spend some time in the car...

That's a beauty Dwight!

Remember a while back I was looking for a manual for my Craftsman Diagnostic Engine Analyzer, Part # 161.2104500? Well, I'd posted my needs on a couple of other automotive forums. Oh, btw, I just received a copy of the manual for my Craftsman Analyzer, I also have, on the way, a couple of other manuals on the way for 2 of the other Analyzers in that line...not sure of the models numbers at the moment...but the I believe one of them has the last 4 digits of 4400... Anyway, today I was sent these links...and I thought they might come in useful to some of the guys here...that have purchased from Sears. I'm sure these #s go back quite some years. The first link basically has the info on who has manufactured for Sears, with a list of the manufacturers. The first column gives you the prefix of the Sears Model #, generally the first 3 numbers in the item model and then tells you who the manufacturer was. Some of the prefix numbers can have more than one manufacturer. So, if you have a product that you purchased from Sears, but no longer have the manual for or have purchased a used item and would like to have a manual for, you might be able to use this list to contact the manufacturer and see if they have the manual for your item. Just a thought. The second link gives you more info, plus just some history and info that I found interesting. Anyway, if you can use it here it is. http://www.owwm.com/Craftsman/Manufacturers.asp http://www.owwm.com/MfgIndex/Detail.asp?ID=222

Okay, try this....I had a problem not to long ago with a site.....and for years when I've had a prob I've followed this procedure. I'm using Windows XP and Internet Explorer, but I've used Windows ME and Windows 98 and it's pretty much the same procedure. First, close all programs and take yourself offline if your in a dial-up...if your on cable, DSL, Satellite, no need to disconnect. In XP on the desktop go to " All Programs", then " Accessories" then " System Tools " then " Disk Cleanup". Click on it. Choose your hard drive....then "OK". Next you will get a list of components that you can clean out. Put a check in " Temporary Internet Files", " Recycle Bin", " Temporary Files". Then click " OK" and let it go through it's cleaning cycle. Close it when it's done. Then, open your control panel and click on " Internet Options". On the " General " tab you should have " Browsing History" or " History"....clean that by clicking the " delete " button. After that has completed, reboot your machine. There are a couple of other files that Windows has in the Windows operating & system files as well, but I don't feel comfortable telling someone through a written format how to do that cause I wouldn't want their system screwed up. I've never had a problem with the procedure above, but I disclaim any responsibility for any difficulties or problems anyone using it might have. It's safe though...and probably the easiest way to attempt at resolving your problem. Sometimes is just some glitch in a cookie or conflicting cookies. Good luck.

Thanks man.......yeah, I'd like to know what manufacturer it is, oh, and maybe the length and inlet/outlet diameters if possible.

No Problem Reg....which car do you expect one of those gear ratios to be in? I'll do my best to get a look. Hey Norm....So, there would be more of a chance that an OD unit would be in either the '50's Cranbrook or the '50s NY'er...correct? Not so much of a chance in the '46 - '48 Chrysler though....is that right? And thanks guys for the heads up on the speedo cable & and everything that needs to be unbolted.

Okay Norm.......I'll take a look at these. How much of a pain is it to pull it all out, OD and everthing needed to have a complete unit...what's involved?

Good question Shel.........do I want it......or, do I need it. Well, to be honest, I don't know. I think it sounds like a good idea, but I guess until I drive the car more, I shouldn't jump on getting an OD...but, I know once I am totally comfortable with the car to even drive it 100 miles, up here, it sounds like when I get out of the mountains up here (and to go anywhere, you really have to get off the mountain), I'd be driving on highways and freeways, and I would think that the improvement in MPG by dropping the RPM's 33% or so would have to be a plus. I'd really like to take it for a ride to my home town in Central Calif around spring...that's about 350 miles. By then, I hope to have all bugs worked out and maybe even some upgrades done. I guess before then, I should really get it driven on the local highways and see how badly I want to tackle installing an OD. I haven't even trouble shot the issues with the front end yet. That's tomorrow....I've been mocking up my front bumpers and getting them straight....and finding other things under the front to tighten or replace. Anyway, Yeah, at this point, I probably want one more than I need one......but if one of those cars has an OD....I'd bet it would be smart to pick it up if I can get it cheap enough, cause there's no saying how much longer those cars are going to be there. I think they have sold the property and are smashing most everything. I'd hate to see something like an OD ....or any usable part get gone before I have a chance to make an offer on it.

Man..........I can't say anything here.....but I am on the floor laughin' my XSS off..............you guys are tooooo funny...all of you! Man, this is got to be the best forum I've ever been privy too.....But man, you guys crack me up! I can't wait till I've been here longer.....so I can chime in.......but c'mon you guys.....my side hurts!

Hey Darin...........Man, I wish I could hear your car cause I'm about ready to go the glass pack route.......So which glasspack did you use?

I recently posted some pics of cars I found locally...one was a '50's something Chrysler NY'er...the other a '51 or '52 Cranbrook. Could either of these vehicles have come with the stock OD's? And if so, is there a way to tell without getting under the cars if they have the OD? Also, what gear ratio would I have in my '48 Dodge Custom 4 Dr...I haven't really looked to see if it's stamped anywhere on the diff but if someone can tell me where to look, I'm gonna be under there tomorrow and the next day. One more question....I've got the Fluid Drive trans....Is the OD & Fluid Drive a decent combo or is there more hassle having the Fluid Drive as opposed to the standard 3 speed.....regarding installation.

I know what you guys mean. It's not too long down the road before we start having this weather again....although the pics below are from this year...I think in March....man, wasn't ready for this snow. This is my Canyon and the walkway up to the front door after just a few hours.....good thing we have an attached garage.....at least one vehicles is always ready to go.

Yeah, maybe your e-brake won't stop you and maybe it will, but it will slow you down, and no matter what, yanking on that e-brake handle should still be one of the first things that enters your mind and should do if you loose your brakes......that and cut your ignition...

Man, I know what you feel like...especially probably knowing who the thief is! In 1994 I lost nearly $50,000 in tools and possessions to thieves, and a '55 Chevy 210 Post that I'd had since '81 and had been building that long. None of it ever recovered. Went away for about a week on a vacation and below my home I had a 4 car garage that I kept my tools and '55 in. Thieves didn't even bust into the home.....just the garage, but that's all it took to loose so much....and I thought it was secure. Anyway, you must mean that having a shotgun connected to a trip wire is illegal in FL, right? But owning a shotgun isn't, is it? Man, I've had a gun since I was 9 years old and I guess I could be considered " just slightly over SUPER conservative, but I wouldn't live anywhere I couldn't own a gun. Anyway Olddaddy, glad to hear you have wraps on everything, bolted down, strapped down, what ever it takes. Hey, and don't forget....a couple of 12V batterys hooked up correctly to exit/entry doors can be a great deterent.

Uhhhh, E-brake? I'm guessing, but if you lost your M/C a few years ago, and you've just installed new lines, shoes and cylinders, but didn't rebuild the M/C this time around....then you must have rebuilt it when you lost your M/C? If you expect your M/C to still be in good shape since last rebuilt, then give 'er a whirl.....but remember the e-brake if you haven't replaced the M/C since it let go a few years ago.....cause your probably gonna need it.

Yeah Norm, I'd have to agree, if it's that much of a pain to get the Alt out of the van, I'd probably be paying someone else to do it also.

Hey Shel......Are you really going to give that a try? Cool! I would really like to hear what you have to say about it.....right after you fire it up for the first time and after having driving the car for a while. I think that is pretty cool...no matter what it does. Hey Tim...good one about the Chrysler Pentastar...I saw that too and thought..naawwww.

Hey Norm, Just a heads up, but " self exciting" internal regulators are available for most alternators....for sure they are for the GM alts. They are really easy to install if you like tinkering. I've done a few on the GM units and found that the alt itself was still in good shape, just pulled the case apart, cleaned the other connections inside, installed the new reg and was good to go. I don't remember what the cost was but I think around 14 bucks. I even contacted a company that manufactures them cause I had a question. They manufactured them for most modern charging systems and some old. I was getting ready to install a higher amp alt 36A to 63A, into my old '69 Jeepster Commando and wanted to change the system over to a single wire internally regulated system. This was all pretty new to me. Anyway, the guy told me I should give one of thier new internal regs a try...it was designed for a Mercury outboard...and a few other applications. Anyway, he sent me 2 of them on the house. They had a really low excite point....about 300 RPM's if I remember right....anyway, it worked great. Only takes about 15 minutes to install in the alt after the alt is out of the car. Anyway, just thought you'd like to know you can change that unit for a lot less than purchasing a complete alt...and have fun doing it!

So Norm, Are you saying that oil drips from this tube occassionally? My 230 has a drip, and although it had a few...stopped most of them, I think it still has one. Naturally, it only drips after I've run the car a little. So, maybe I should put a clean white rag on the floor below the tube and see if that is where it's coming from. Yeah?

Hey Jim...............No problem....not to worry, I got a kick out of your post......Hey, and I am going back out there, possibly tomorrow...next week for sure cause a guy here want's a part off the Cranbrook...anyway, I'll dig around a little closer in the NYer and see if that wheel might have been in it or in the trunk...I kink of doubt it, but hey, I think they are still looking for the holy grail as well aren't they? Anyway, if it's there somewhere, do you want me to take a pic? Find out what they want for it? Let me know cause I don't get out there often...matter of fact, after I go this next time, it may be a month before I go again.....

Yeah Bob, it definitely had a different profile than the rear bumper. When I first found these cars a couple months ago and saw that front bumper inside the car(at least I think it's front...not sure though), I measured the distance between the inside of the mounts...cause the bumper was so nice that I figured even though it wasn't correct for my car....I'd buy it and put it on. I went home and measured and it was about 2 or 3 inches narrower than the space between my frame rails where it would have had to mount....plus, it really wasn't " rounded " as my car is in the front, so had the rail measurement been right, it probably still wouldn't have fit without hitting the gravel shield and at best, would have looked kind of funky.

Okay, thanks Bob.....The script sure does look cool though...and 20 more cubic inches would be great...and the motor is complete I think except for carb. Are these pretty much the same motor, dimensionally as my 230? I think I've read here a few times that they are. Would this engine drop into my '48 and bolt to my fluid drive trans without a lot of fabrication since they are pretty much the same era? Not saying I'm going to go this route, but I was thinking it might be something to have sitting on the sidelines if I should ever need it.

Yeah, but, if the bear is too heavy to drag into the house, just plant a gun in one of it's paws before you call the authorities. Self defense, officer!

Ummmm, errrrrr, hmmmm....steering wheel? Shipping? Perfect? No, seriously Jim....which car are you talking about...which steering wheel...although I think only 1 of the cars had a wheel....maybe two. Brian

Hey, thanks Bob...yeah, I thought it was one of those years....but I didn't know they had a model name....So, a 250 CI motor....hmmmm, I wonder how that would fair in my dodge? So, what is the " Spitfire " ? And what is the M-5? I have a fluid drive in my Dodge...it's pretty cool, 3spd on the tree, but I don't know what model number my trans is...how does it compare to this M-5?