fatFreddie

I did not see Vintage American Parts on your list... Seriously NAPA has them 160 STAT part THM55 $8.69 180 STAT part THM155 $8.69 and you will need the gasket part FPG 35063 $1.69. The external bypass STAT is the one with the rubber gasket on top...used to 1950... after 1950 you can use the modern style (flat) STAT. You can get them at your local NAPA or from NAPAONLINE.com and they will ship them to your front door

Nope.... that is a misconception as the only way to insure NO VACUUM is to DISCONNECT. It is almost impossible to guarantee that the throttle plate is blocking off the vacumm port (slot) at idle. Worn parts cause this. Smallest vacuum will move the advance. Check it out for your self...put a vacuum gauge on the line and see!!!

Get yourself a set of Dorman 799-350 Vacuum Caps Rubber Set of 30 about 4 bucks at any auto parts store

Make sure you disconnect and PLUG the vacuum line to the Distubutor vacuum advance BEFORE making any timming adjustments. Must have no/none/ZERO vaccum at the advance. I never see this mentioned and I know guys are not doiing it to their FLH engines because it is a HARD LINE and not a rubber line so no one thinks it needs to be disconnected...but YES it does. Try that before moving the hard adjustment under the distibutor as COATNEY recommends.

GTK..... are we now opening your forum up to religious postings?

Steele Rubber http://steelerubber.com ...is the only one that has them . You will need the rubber and the cloth BOWDRILL to cover the weatherstrip as the BOWDRILL makes the window glide over the weatherstrip. Steele part numbers Weatherstrip set, side roof rail, rubber only. Eight (8) piece set for right and left side, including windshield post. 70-1277-65.....$ 394.00/set Tape, bowdrill cloth 70-1176-65...Tan 5"..$ 25.10/ea 5" works best as you want to completely wrap the strip and then slide it into the channel. You also will need the header weatherstriping Weatherstrip, windshield to front bow 40-0418-65.....$ 52.20/ea. Weatherstrip, windshield header to front bow, at rear 30-0503-65.....$ 47.50/ea. Stuff is NOT CHEAP...but is needed to seal up the top

VMR is the site the insurance companies use...you can see which ones use it in the banner ...they may say "we insure for "stated value"" and take your premium money for your "stated value" but when you have a TOTAL loss they go right to this guide for pay off if you did not have 2 independent appraisals in the last 3 years confirming your "stated value". Then you have to sue them to pay up which is more money and hassle then to just accept their amount....and they (insurance companies) know it. Do not be fooled if you insure that P-15 hot rod for 50K and it gets toasted in a California wildfire...they will only pay you 10K... http://collectorcarmarket.com/menus/makes.html

The Plymouth bodies came from the Briggs plant already assembled with interior and all. Briggs had several plant all around the country which produced the bodies for Plymouth. The Woodies , Convertibles and specialty cars were all assembled in Detroit.

Welding 101: FLUXCORE is for outside work or a open shop. GAS SHEILD is for indoor work. Slightest breeze blows away that expensive shield gas.

hahahahah...look who is the SELLER!!!

Chrysler indiscriminately referred to both the standard and semi-automatic fluid-coupling transmissions as “Fluid Drive” in its promotional and technical literature. This contributed greatly to the confusion between the two types, and many Chrysler Corp. car owners of that time did not understand the difference. Many who had the fluid drive/3-speed manual configuration were not aware of any difference between that and the conventional flywheel set-up. Source...allpar.com

Really...than what fluid does go in these?

First, MOPAR engineers did not make the fluid. A company named LUBRIZOL did (NYSE: LZ). Second, Greg that has been done already... like 30-35 years ago. Look for WPC News from 1975 or 1978 I do not remeber what issue or exact year. Back then it was determined to be Hydraulic JACK fluid, or 10W ND motor oil. It was also stated back then that you can still use Hydraulic JACK fluid, or 10W ND motor oil, but the better replacement was Tractor 134 or Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) FORD TYPE F...NOT DEXRON..... DEXRON contains a SEAL SWELL additive that will destroy the original seals in teh FLUID DRIVE transmission.

The first question is WHAT fluid is in the can...is it original Fluid Drive fluid? or is is something else. I have seen them full of old motor oil, kerosene, old gasoline, turpentine...or what ever, so that is the first question. Second not even a MOPAR purist would risk putting a 70 year old fluid in their tranny...sorry Greg Dump the fluid....take it to a recycle center.....and display it or sell it...worth 20-50 bucks depending on how good the litho is on it.

Where is DON COATNEY when you need him...he has to have a PIC of these different heads somewhere as we all know he has more pictures than a Japanesse tourist

Volare, oh oh E contare, oh oh oh oh Nel blu, dipinto di blu E ci dice di stare lassu E volavo, volavo felice piu in alto del sole con coro piu su Mentre il mondo pian piano spariva lontano laggiu Una musica dolce suonava soltanto per me

Don't mean the YOU get the most money for YOUR junk you sell on eBay

Not from Vintage American parts.....right Michael... That same sign can be reproduced at a sign shop for under 15K...at that price I wonder if it also comes with the crack they are smoking?

Yep read that too...but I will let all the good little sluthes out there in P-15 land do a little road work...now I am sure that most of you have a copy of the P-15 parts manual, now boys and girls open it up to the BODY section....and see were Chrysler tells you were to order the wood parts ....Now you will need to have an April of 1947, D-11758, or newer parts book, D-12198, to play along on this slueth...but it is worth it Now for an added bonus...once you figured out the slueth you can use Google earth to view the site.....

So.Jim..if there is no bending and just a bunch of cut and glued pieces then why then would Chrysler just get a Shopsmith MARK 5 and make the bodies themselves instead of contracting them out to a company that has experience in bending wood....horse collars?

Now if it is not running...how did you determine the timing is 5 ATDC? I would check to see if the breaker plate is free. The IGS distributor had a large bearing and this was loaded with grease which over time turns to cement and will not let the breaker plate move to advance the timing. The latter , mid 1949 introduction, IAT distributors had a friction pivot point which solved the problem of this sticking. Remove the cap...place your THUMB on the side of the condensor and you index finger on the side of the electrical connection for the points and rotate the plate...now it will only move about a quarter of an inch and should move with ease...if it does not move easily it is gummed up...you can spray some WD40 on the bearing to free it but it is best to remove distributor, clean and regrease the bearing

Looks like you caught me on that one Jim...USCHO did not use STEAM...they used a hot water alkali solution to soak the wood in then they place them into a form or jig to bend in the shape. When I was restoring my 48 Town & Country Sedan, I was lucky to find the original jigs for the rear trunk pieces....got them from an original employee at USCHO in Buffallo. I have since sold the jigs some 30 years ago...last I heard White Post has them... The curved sections are made up of multiple pieces joined with finger joints. YES that is true....but that piece started as a straight piece of wood. The FINGER JOINTS are used to control the spring and warp in the piece while it undergos bending.

That is not true...anywhere there is a bend in the wood it is STEAM BENT... Lets look at...can you take a solid piece of wood and cut a bend in it ...yes you can, but the grain is wrong. That is fine for a cabinet that hangs on a walll and never moves, but a car moves and shakes and hit bumps... Now for the wood. You just cannot go to Home Depot and buy it...no.. you need to be very selective. Nice tight, straight grain...air dried...no KILN dried. White Ash...harder to find as that Chinese emerald borer is destroying it all..Maple, Red Gum, Oak...not cheap stuff. If you need to make a wood body talk to a boat builder/restored. My favorite woods are the Lyman...Garwood and the Chris Crafts are nice too... Could a guy in his garage with a ShopSmith Mark 5 and a pile of wood build a 1936 PLymuth Westchester body...sure anything can be done...would it be worth 100K +...not a chance as people paying that price requires an inspection and any car appraiser worth their salt would see the difference form a ShopSmith Mark 5 body and a properly made body...

Unless you are a master shipwright...master body man...master automotive mechanic....own your own chrome shop and upholstery shop...RUN AWAY... Lets look at reality...a top notch Westchester Plymouth is worth 85K...Now in your case...Wood reconstruction alone is the biggie...provided there is enough left of the originals for a pattern look at a cost of 35-50K....body work 12K...Chrome 8K...interior 3K...mechanical 3K...missing parts...2K I would not go over a 1K offer...and only if it has the sidemount spare fenders...

missed this one too....