Jeff Balazs

Hi Guy's; I am going to have a chat with Maaco and maybe another local shop or two. I do want it to be well protected but I really don't want to spend much more than around $1500 on paint. It just doesn't make sense to me to spend more than that for the type of paint job I want. Jeff

Believe me I know and I am not blaming the painter......although I explained to him in detail what sort of paint job I wanted before he even came and looked at it. But I do get it and I am sure he does real nice work. I suppose I probably have a much different set of preferences than most folks. I think an old truck should show it's age and battle scars. And if the paint were faded or not perfect well that is just fine with me. I just want paint....not primer. Not Rat rod.....just old work truck. If I would have had enough of the original paint to try and save it I probably would have gone that route. I probably could paint it myself......but I really don't have the time as my shop is busy now and I want to keep it that way. Also I am going to use the truck as my daily driver and really don't want to be worrying about where I park it or what get's thrown in the back. Honestly if there was a way to open a can and get a 20 or 30 year old paint job out of it then that is what I would do. Jeff

Hank Well now I might just could squeeze that outta my budget! Where is Earl when you need him? I did have a painter come by last week and look at it......he wanted 5K. :eek:And I already have it down to bare metal and only want a couple of dents fixed. Sean and I about pissed ourselves! I had to tell him that is not going to happen. At this point I think I am just going to have Maaco squirt it. All I want is a work truck paint job and if it is a little bit funky...... so be it. On the plus side .... thanks to members of this group and ebay....I have already secured most of the main bits to do this fresh air and defroster upgrade. And that is going to be much more useful than an original AM radio........... Jeff

Thanks Guy's for all the great photo's and assistance with this. I feel like I already have a good jump on this installation. Hopefully the truck will be painted soon and I can start in on finishing it up. Can't wait! Jeff

Hmm.....Options So are the truck master fans 2 wire? or more than that? Just trying to get a picture of what is involved. And also start figuring out my wiring harness .......which I will be making myself. My dash (52) had a spot above the trim bar in the center that had the heater switch and a cigarette lighter installed. I am considering putting the defroster & fresh air controls in a line across that area instead of having the separate console. Jeff

So Guy's it looks like the installation is relatively straightforward....if you have the parts. One question though. Is the fan switch a rheostat? Or do the fans in the truck master heaters come wired for a multi-position switch? Does any one have spec's or manufacturer data for these switch's? Or better yet a source? My truck had a small after market heater installed in it when I got it. The switch was missing but it only has 2 wires to the fan. Thanks again for all your valuable input. Jeff

Hi Guy's; Thanks for all the great photo's, info and insight on this subject. I know I want to add these features......just have to find the bits without braking the bank. Again if anyone has any of these items they are willing to part with.......I am more than willing to pay a fair price. I will go see my Rover guy Eddie about the heater control valve and report back. It may be a less pricey alternative to an original. Jeff Here is wishing you all a great Holiday Season!

Does it have the fresh air option? If you can drive it here.......you are welcome to park it here but it doesn't look as though it has done any work lately. Jeff

Thanks Guys; This is all very helpful. I will have to start gathering all the goodies to do this. Keven; I will have to check out that Rover control valve. Just happen to have a really good Rover shop in our complex. It looks like it would do the job just fine. Mark; Thanks for all the photos. Which heater do you have? Routing on the defrost ducts looks fun. What type/brand of switch did you use ? Thanks, Jeff

Hank; Well I gotta tease you...... As you know I really like the "work truck" look. I know.....I am probably the only person (well maybe not) who cringes when they see old trucks done up like a cream puff. To me it is just wrong........imagine what the truck thinks? Now see what you are describing as the condition in which you obtained your truck .....was the essence of the trucks real work life. That was cool....ugly maybe.....but real. Jeff

Hank; Hey you are actually using your truck for hauling! Good deal. In my previous career as a fuel system engineer I had a birds eye view of the fuel supply for Southern California. As far as the fuel topic goes there are several factors that come into play. A) In our local Chevron clearly had the best additive package in their fuel. I believe that this is still true but I have not seen lab reports or tear down examinations for about 15 years. 98% of all contaminants including the most prevalent...water are introduced at the gas stations. Reason....leaking or dirty fuel tanks, poorly located delivery hookups and almost no preventative maintenance. C) The idea that all the fuel you buy is carefully filtered is a myth. Due to the various process and handling steps that your fuel goes through to get to you and the high demand in our area........nothing could be farther than the truth. For the most part the fuel producers rely on high volume basket strainers and such for filtration. And they don't get changed all that often. The only quality filtration that we as consumers can control takes place right in our vehicles. D) A truly useful additive like Sahara Gas Treatment is not a bad thing to have on hand when you do get a slug of water in your tank. E) Much of the "dirt" in our carbs etc....can be traced back to our air supply. The LA Basin has a huge amount of airborne particulates. It is a well known fact with plenty of documentation. And much of this matter is highly abrasive and /or toxic. When your truck is running you are sucking huge volumes of this into the engine compartment....through the air filter and pumping out the tailpipe. Some of the stuff clings to any oily or damp surface like your carb. Some gets trapped in the air filter and that which makes it through acts like an abrasive in your engine. Jeff

Thanks Guys; Your input as always is invaluable. So will any of the truckmaster heaters work? Or is there one that is optimum for the defroster function? Do any of these have a two speed fan or variable speed control? I recently saw a cable controled diverter fitting on ebay which looked to be for the defroster. It may have been a Powerwagon item though. I would greatly appreciate photos showing the duct hose (particularly the defroster duct) and control cable routing. Seems like the heater control valve is probably going to be the toughest item to source. I suppose I could cobble something together from Napa type parts that would work if I can't find the real thing. If any of you have any of the necessary bits and pieces needed to do this installation ....... Imalookin. As I work towards "recycling" this truck into my daily driver these sorts of creature comfort items will make a big difference in how usable it will actually be. Thanks again, Jeff

Hi Keven; Happy holidays to you. Thanks I would like some photos. My truck came with the defroster duct heads below the windshield but that was it. I will have to find all the rest of the stuff. A defroster feature is a must this time of year in my local. No so much for icing (although some years) but we really have a problem with fogged up windows when it rains. I live in the coastal foothills and have about a 300 to 400 foot elevation drop to get down into town and my shop. Going down that hill the windows always fog up... Jeff

Hi Guys; Was wondering if any of you had added these options to your trucks. I would really like to add these two features to my truck. My truck has an aftermarket heater which I suppose would have to be abandoned in favor of a #65 Truckmaster??? I see quite a lot of the bits to do this on ebay. It seems as if it should be fairly straightforward if you have all the parts. Any guidance or spare parts offers would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff

Hank; What did the problem end up being? Jeff

Hi Keven; Did you have the covers sewn up or are you using a donor cover? Either way they look very professional. I am sure you have seen this but there is a fellow offering up some very nice seat covers and door panels on ebay.......it would be great if he did a full kit. Jeff

:eek: ........................ Hank you are too funny! Jeff

Merle; That is what I was thinking might get me close. I will try this and keep some adjustment available in the rod. Thanks, Jeff

Hi Guys; I am trying to figure out how best to determine the proper at rest position of my brake pedal. I have a 52 B-3-C with a 4 speed Fluidrive. I have fitted 4 wheel discs with a Grand Cherokee M/C and am in the process of completing this installation. Currently the cab is off. The original adjustable rod that goes between the pedal assembly and the M/C is too long and needs to be shortened ...... but I am not sure how much? I do know that the position of the brake pedal in relation to the clutch pedal is different but I am having trouble figuring out how to come up with the correct position. Any suggestions or guidance would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff

Thanks for your comments. It really doesn't surprise me to hear that there could be a vibration issue with these mirrors. To my eye they almost look like an afterthought. I think I am going to look for some aftermarket truck mirrors of the period that use a different mounting arrangement. Perhaps something with a larger mirror on it. I am making this truck into a daily driver and if I have to deviate from stock for safety reasons so be it. Jeff

:eek: Paul......for once Hank and I are in total agreement! I don't want to see the pictures either! :eek: Jeff

Yes that is certainly a possibility. Jeff

I have been thinking about spraying the removable sections and the underside of the cab with rubberized bed liner material. About $10 a can at Home Depot right now. It seems to me that this would be quiet, waterproof and hold up well at the same time. Jeff

Hank; It certainly can't hurt to try disconnecting the VR to see what happens. I suppose it could be making a bad contact and cause some sort of ignition problem. I wouldn't think this happens all that often. Jeff

Hank; Sure sounds like a fuel problem to me. I am curious why you left out that filter? It is your first line of defense. It is not uncommon for fuel to have crud and water in it. Try pumping some into a clear glass jar and see if you have a slug of water in it. I doubt the voltage regulator swap has anything to do with this. Pop the distributor cap and inspect for corrosion or moisture there as that is a somewhat common issue. WD40 or similar will take care of it. Jeff