rumble48

Saw this in the manual as a way to time from scratch. this is definitely a long way from my sbc background..... so to net, Don's pic's show what is missing on mine. Under the 'don't fix it if it ain't broke rule', there's no chance I'm replacing the timing cover even if I could find one, so it's ear timing and maybe the vaccuum gauge for now.... thanks to all for the responses, craig Ps Don... I mostly lurk here, I am amazed at your ability to have a picture for what seems like every occasion..... and to have them at what seems like your finger tips to help folks like me. thanks.

I am working on a stock 48 plymouth, and although I have had this car several years, a tune up has been sort of a moving target time wise, taking a back seat to multiple fuel related problems. Finally after replacing the the Strom carb with a B&B, the car seems to start on command and idle smoothly. So I removed the dist. and replaced the points & condenser as well as the cap & rotor. I replaced the dist to the positions I had marked, and started the car, all is good, runs even more smoothly than before. Not one to leave well enough alone, I prepared to set the timing, I found and marked the balancer/pully timing mark, and started to hunt for the reference mark/tab as shown in my manual. guess what, no tab or marks that I can find. I went ahead and ear timed it, and drove it and no pinging, so all is good, sorta. as in it sorta bugs me. Can sombody school me on what or where I should be looking. The manual pic shows the tab on the front of the timing chain cover, but I don't see it. The manual I am using is one of the evilbay aftermarket manuals, which has been fairly good so far. thanks, craig

I have been keeping and eye on ebay, but haven't been real sure which I should look seriously at.... also the concern that I will end up with one which is worse than the stromberg... Tod ....... thanks for the model #s.... craig

could someone provide the stock Carb ID. number or model #.... I am currently running a Stromberg carb and because it has issues I'm thinking of looking for a B&B to switch to? craig

after you have gone to a car show and seen 10+ cars of all types in a row, all powered by a SBC....... I call it 'boring'

Harbor Freight has collection of different sizes in a container for about $5. I needed both grommets and plugs; I found a 125pc assortment for about $10. google search: firewall grommets craig

When I purchased my 48 p15 it had what I take to be an aftermarket heater..... an MP 356 with defrost connections. The previous owner gave me a Comfort Master model 53, and said it was a stock heater. After some research I've found the M53/M54 are part of an optional dual heater system. my original thought was to use the original heater (M53) to replace the aftermarket unit. after looking at it, looks like I should be using an M54 which would have the air output on the left putting it closer to the center of the car. Also I have not seen one with defrost connections, so I need to figure out what that looks like as well. Can someone jump in here and clear up which heater is the correct one in a single heater config, and maybe a pic of the defrost connections at the heater. Craig

geez... I think you folks are going to drive right past me before I can get the plymouth started..... course it does take a while to start.... great road trip!

Just did this, fuzzy up as it was before. I used 5-6 small rivets through drilled out staple holes for the inside window sill. craig

Noticed the speedo output is on the opposite side from my 48', is that a clue, do they vary by model/year? craig

thanks, I think I have some of that around as well, I will give it a try and see what happens..... craig

A while back I had the similar problems with my speedo, to the point that I had to disconnect it..... I am finally getting back to it, mine is still in the car, and I have been trying to figure the easiest way of removing it. Oiling would be a lot easier, but haven't noticed an oil hole, approximately where is it? craig

great pics! as for receipts, I collect them, but I don't count them......

I'm familar with the with the oilite style, it should be oil soaked before installation, I like the idea of cooling for shrinkage, also I have had good luck using the old bearing as a driver to install the new.... saves you from hammering a flat surface into the new bearing.... good luck.

the little silver thingy is a fuse holder...... interesting way to design it....

switching gears so to speak.... and thinking high rpm, have you checked/ replaced the plugs, or the plug wires.....

I had this same problem, the fluid was clear enough to look in and see the relief hole...... that said, when I rebuilt the master I found it plugged and the piston area full of crud.... problem solved...

Great pics, your pic of the pacer almost made it look kinda cool....... but did I miss it, what happened to your plymouth.....

Thanks for the info, I will give those folks a try..... here's a pic of the plymouth before paint. the new color will be close to the stock 'convertable only' cream yellow..... It will probably be September before it is complete, I will repost with the after......

I'm in the process of having my 48 coupe painted, and I am trying to assemble replacement rubber for the doors, trunk, etc. The car had also piece of welting installed between the cowl and rear of the hood. The material is not rubber, but rather looks woven. Is this a stock piece? If so, are there any known sources.... and if not, what keeps the hood from moving around, and /or scratching the new paint?

Anyone had any experience installing a 3 point belt? the floor portion seems straight forward, but I could use some tips on the shoulder belt placement in a 2dr coupe.....

x2.... I have used the 8.8 rear in swaps in the past, and found them to be a solid axle.... good luck...

Don... I took your pry bar suggestion to heart but couldn't find a place to pry in the right direction. So ended up with a comealong from the frame to behind the trany and back to the frame. with a little hockying the bolts went in. I am left with a grudge against the front mounts, so I think I will try to find some and replace them. Thanks for the comment, craig

Recently I was rebuilting the Master Cylinder, and had the floor out to do so.... like other folks have, I noticed the rear motor mounts were at pancake high and decided to replace them.... yesterday I set out change them and when bolting it back together i found that the motor mount holes and the bellhousing holes didn't line up by 1/2 to 3/4". It looked as though the engine was positioned to the rear. I looked at the front mounts and couldn't really tell if they have moved or what condition they are in. I looked at the old rear mounts and they are both egged pretty badly. I searched for posts on a problem like this, but what I found was mostly discussion about the rear mounts. If I change out the front mounts to try to shift the motor forward, where is the lift point? any other ideas appreciated.