Vintage Metal

I only replaced the gasket between the block and the pump. The gasket for the outlet to the heater is okay and the leak is not coming from the gasket between the cover and pump housing. I used the same gasket material that you show in the picture Don

Funny thing is, I did clean the block and the waterpump, used a new gasket (fiber board type - blue) with some gasket sealer and it leaks from the top.

I pulled my waterpump to replace the gasket on the block...and it still leaks I did find out that my water pump is a new rebuilt unit. I tried to pull the distribution tube out....hah...no way... Is there a trick to installing the waterpump 'square' so it wont leak?

wow, so much money for a 4 door....im certain he will not recouperate what he's got into it.

I wanted to come back and give an update of my findings. I pulled the distributor out of the engine to change the points and condenser. What I did not know was there was 2 adjustments under the distributor. Nuts! While out, I did a 'suck' test on the vacuum advance diaphram and noticed the diaphram was good, but the breaker plate was 'siezed' in place from the old grease. I removed the breaker plate and cleaned up the bearings, put new grease in place. Oiled up the advance weights and checked the springs. I re-did the internal wires so they were not grounding out on the housing. Put a new set of points and condenser inside. The rotor and cap were new so I did not replace. After clean, I put back into the motor, I inserted it back in its original place from how I removed it. I cleaned the pulley real good, got it to start and was able to manipulate the rpm with the distributor while it was running. I set the advance at 2 degree's with the vacuum off the distributor. It starts at a 1/2 revolution on the starter now. Funny thing...the car wasnt advancing may have been the culprit to the overheating I was having. Since getting the distributor working as it should...I have not seen too much of a difference other than it does run a bit smoother!

This is a great thread!

Yep Get one of those heater plug in things to keep it warm! Drive it during the winter!

Nice Cars! Love everyday use!

By chance do you have the part number for this alternator or vehicle it comes off of?

Its been soaking in the gas...but the leather isnt flared out enough to pump from the initial stepping on the gas pedal causing a 'flat' spot at take off. I was almost thinking of putting another spring underneath the leather on the pump...Anyone have any suggestions to correct this?

I did not soak the piece in oil overnight...I read the instructions in the box and it said to flare the leather...should I remove and soak it?

the rear of the car needs to be fine tuned to the proportions. The wheels...a huge negative! I dont like them on the car, needs hubcaps and skirts!

I just rebuilt mine and notice a 'flat' spot on initial acceleration....i think the accelerator pump isnt working as it should....im thinking I should replace it because it doesnt flare out enough to pump correctly because the shaft is tapered. Any suggestions?

I used #1 plug...the first cylinder at the front of the motor.

The timing light I have is a basic-run of the mill trigger pulling unit. no special advanced knobs or switches. 2 battery cables and one cable for spark plug.

Car was running at 160 degree's temp, choke was not engaged. The carb was recently rebuilt and adjusted to get the idle to about 450-500 rpm per what I have read here on the forums. There is adequate vacuum from the carb, but that is by feel, I will have to check by a guage. I could go and adjust the points and condenser, but im not sure that would make that much a difference if rotating the distributor causes no change in the engine. Maybe I have bad plug wires?

Im using a older 'Sun Pro' timing light and yes the marks on the pulley did change ADV/RTRD when turning the distributor, like I mentioned, no change in RPM or runnability of the engine.

I got a 48 Plymouth with a 218. Last night I wanted to check the timing because I kept thinking maybe there was something wrong, running like it was very retarded (no pun intended ) I loosened the distributor and removed the vacuum line from the carb. I plugged the hole in the carb to delete the vacuum leak. Started the motor (RPM around 450-500) and checked to see what was going on at the crank pulley. I couldn't see much so I shut her down and cleaned the the pulley to get a good visual of the timing marks. I started up the car again and got to work. I could see where it was set so I started to make some adjustments. After turning it CW and CCW a few times, I noticed there wasnt much or any difference in the sound of the engine. So I drastically turned the distributor CCW and CW with no audible or RPM changes...very wierd. I shut the car down and checked the vacuum advance unit. I sucked on the vacuum line and it appeared and felt like to be working good. I know its not working while timing, but sometimes you think of the darndest things. With that good I fired the motor again and messed with the distributor again with no changes. Very wierd...no sputtering or speed up of the engine rpm.... NOTHING! Any Suggestion to the issue im having? Is this normal? Im thinking I have a 'bad' distributor....weak springs maybe...I dont know...im "spitballing" at this point. Thanks for any help!

Great shots, lots of work there! Cant wait to see the finished product!

Wow, what a smooth ride! hardly heard the engine running... Thanks for sharing.

Speaking of mouse...or rat, I remember driving behind a 55 chevy wagon I bought, it had holes in the floors, we stopped at a stop sign and right at take off a 2' long rat leaped out and took off running! (I swore it did a cart wheel when it hit the ground before it took off!) When I got the car home, I got in it days later, started it and was pumping the gas to find 2 mice on my shoe after climbing out from under the dash...from inside the radio... I was a bit freaked out!

huh..ha ha!

Yes, im familiar where Juniper Street is...is he a Plymouth Guy too?

Anyone ever try this? Recommeded from GM Dealership ~ Oxalic acid: stuff works great for rust, just do a search. Just go down to your local hardward store and buy some wood bleach (basically it's just powdered oxalic acid), run through your system and then neutralize with Baking Soda. or 50/50 mixture of Muriatic acid and then neutralize with Baking Soda.

The car had a 160 thermostat in place, so ill put it back in. It also had a gas cap type cap on the radiator - missing spring loaded seal on typical radiators. I thought it was odd considering the radiator (having same honeycomb center as the one pictured above) but with different fill opening in the center. The waterpump was 'rebuilt', but leaking a little from the shaft and possibly against the block....ever so slightly. Is there an 'acid' that can be run through a radiator to clean them out? I flushed the block and radiator with 'Bars Radiator flush' (pop top can with white powdery stuff) for 30 min as recommended. I rinsed it till the water was clear again. Quite a bit of 'brown' tint came out of both the block and radiator....I remember the car idled with the Temp at 180 degree's the whole time, after the Thermostat replacement.