ferdball

Don't mean to hijack an old thread but I just posted up a new B-1-B Decal on my site.... $4.95 Free Shipping...all proceeds go to my daughters education LINK TO DECAL

Found a cool T-Shirt on ebay for us Route-Van enthusiast! https://www.ebay.com/itm/283834805751

Dragged the 42 home today hosed it off! Here is is...... Headed over to the classifieds to list it.... will go up on eBay sunday... and up in price if I have to buy tires and get it all running and stopping! Neat old 42!

Pulled home and shined it up! The 215/85x16 fit just fine, they are close on the from of the rear fenders... Fronts turn just fine although the only experience I've had was putting it with a chain to the dolly and then around the yard to park it. I think I will get a size smaller in width and height just to be safe but I like the bigger tire look. Thanks for all your help!

Do you think those 7.50x16s would fit on the front? That's about what I think the 21585x16 are closest to. Guess either way I'll find out tomorrow. I'e peeled off the tires from my B-1-B and am headed over tomorrow drag it home. Will post up a photo of it in the driveway tomorrow!

red can look great on the right car (or truck)... I like the before picture...(more of a dark red) vs the newer bright red, (maybe it's just dirt?) Pinstripes are neat and authentic, some of these old dodges (like your pickup) had red on the trim or hood ornaments too! ties it all together.

Agree with posters - it's a 41. I think that most of them were fluid drive. And also here's a 40 and 42 for reference... agree with the other poster.... fix the car you have before you die and your grandkids have to send them to the scrap yard.

I've got some very nice blackwall tires on my B-1-B and they are 215/85x16 and thought before I went to the trouble of removing them and trying them on my D-22 (42 sedan) I'd ask some members here if you thought they would clear the fenders. Looks like they will but any input would be appreciated. Looking toe buy some new tread when the wheels come back from the powder coater.

FROM THIS TO THIS TO THIS>>>>> attached Known this truk since I was probably 10 yrs old. Never would have dreamed I'd own him one day!

Bueno! Thanks for all the info. Now I'll get to cleaning and prep work.

Plymouthy, if I grind all the remnants of the brazing away should I be good to go with welding? Or does the brazing process do other things to the metal and joint?

Quick question for y'all, I've got a weeping hairline crack along the top of my differential pumpkin. It's about 4-5 inches long and I'm wondering if I could just clean it up real good and weld it back together? Or is there some NO NO when welding on a differential? I dont want to do anything stupid and weld teeth together or blow out seals etc? I was thinking on draining it out and leaving the drain and fill plugs out and maybe hooking up a shop vac or compressor just to keep some air moving through there. I did notice that at some point someone tried to braise it so it's got some brass on there I'd need to grind off too. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

JohnTeee or anyone with similar! In your photo at the top of your turn signal, what's the tiny toggle switch under the dash on the far left? my D14 has the same but I have no idea where or what it use to do?? Not hooked up to anything but feels like it's a 3 way switch. (left, mid,right)

There is a paragraph in this latest issue of Skinned Knuckles that hits the nail on the head not only about cars but about the past and appreciating the little things that make driving a 70 year old thing of beauty worth every penny and drop of sweat and blood. If you're getting "bored" of the truck or car or whatever it may be you might want to reflect back to what made you purchase the thing in the first place. For me, I'll never be in it for the comfort of mustang II suspension or reliability of disk brakes or geared up for highway speeds. it's all about the thrill of driving a piece of history as it was intended.

So I picked up this fuel filler neck grommet from roberts a couple months ago and it's only been on my truck about 6 weeks. and it installed just fine. I did notice it was a bit more flimsy than the original. Then today I hopped in to go for a drive and noticed that it was split and on closer inspection it is cracking all around the edges.????? (SEE ATTACHED PHOTO) Anyone had similar luck with roberts rubber? Guess I'll go back to original or try again if they'll replace for free....... Maybe I should try steele this time. Dont want to waste any more time on this.

ok, ordered up a couple of the baldwins as per your recommendations. If the measurements are spot on it should be a breeze! All the local places (napa, oreileys, autozone) didnt stock it but could order it with shipping charges.. So I found it online for cheaper. Kinda sad how I' always TRY to help out the local parts store but it's getting so I cant afford to anymore....... Thanks Merle for the experienced reply!

Hey there, I've got an old Dodge pickup (1948) but it has a 1953 "D46" engine in it and i'm not sure if the oil filter element housing is from the 48 or 53. But at any rate, I've had the sock type in there in the past but would like to move to the canister type just to save up my cuss words.. I came across some OLD Purolator Oil Filter Refill elements "N•16" is what it says on the box. also states that it's a replacement for the "N" type filter elements. It fits perfectly perfect and I'm wondering if it cross references to a newer model or brand? I can't find anything on the web about the N16….?? It measures 3 7/8" w 5 1/4 h. Can i switch from the sock type to the canister type? I noticed that the lid does not have a spring (presummably to hold the canister down?) And at the bottom there is no stopper on the inner middle input shaft but that N16 stops and sits on the outside lip of the canister itself. hope this is OK.??? I've tried the common six 51011 and frame equivalents but they are about an inch or more to short. Not sure if I have an oddball canister? It's larger than most of the others I have by just over an inch and it's got the large bar wingnut on top instead of just a bolt head. I guess what I'm asking is 1. anyone got a purolator catalog they could cross reference that N16 with ANYTHING that I could find currently? and 2. can I use a non sock type and have it do it's job? mine does NOT look like this below but I see that it's happy with the N-15 purolator.

big in Australia - called the "coupe-ute" google that. There were also plenty of home made versions as families needed a family car but dad needed a truck. Best of both worlds!

Here's a photo of a stock 40 desoto business coupe rear end for reference, holler if you need any other info "40desoto".

Found some from rear shackle hangar brackets from DODGE CENTRAL, double the price of everyone else but I'm back in business. Have not put them on yet. Just painted the frame up to about the transmission... bed wood is done and ready to install. just did a lot painting today and when it all dries it's time to go back together. Here's some progress on the bed replacement that' turned into a "from the cab back on frame restoration" And that's the easy half....**WHEW**

Personally, I like to shine mine to look like a 1953 coronet engine in a 48 b-1-b and then add some finishing touches of oil and dirt to the underside. Took me YEARS to get it to look like this.

Personally I like sticking with what an old farmer would do.... how bout some linseed oil? or black...

not mine but out in front of a antique store- had to snap a photo!

you guys seriously crack me up.... love it.