Suddensix

I surrender, no matter how hard I try I can't post my photos. I have been trying to post 7 photos of my car and actually did get one to show up in a preview but that's it. So until someone who knows what they are doing shows up in person to help me with this chore you will have to take my word for it that it is a sweet ride. Thanks to Allan Faust for trying to get me on the right path. Cheers Gary

I am using Internet Explorer. Or it's using me!

Yes Don that's what it looks like.

Got brave and tried to post some photos of my car from photobucket. The last time I did it, many moons ago, it actually worked so I wrote down what I did for the next time which was tonight. I went into photobucket, clicked on "img code" the copied box appeared then in my post I right clicked and selected "paste". Now instead of getting a photo I get the long gobillygook text that you should be able to click on for the image but nothing happens. What am I missing?????

Ya, so have I and it usually ain't pretty. Thanks for your input Tim.

The length of the thread is what I'm talking about. The original is 3/8" I measured the thread depth on my head and found it was 7/16" so bought plugs accordingly after much research on the net. Also moved up two heat ranges. Wish me luck.

When I installed the Pertronix set up I used their coil and ignition wires as per their suggestion and it seems to work well. I just returned from NAPA with a new set of longer reach and hotter spark plugs, maybe they will do the trick.

I'm running a Pertronix and according to them you leave the gap stock.

Norm, I did check the vac advance and it was OK. Forgot to mention it in my original post. Bill and Greg, I'm running Autolite #306 plugs with a gap of 35 thou. They are resistor plugs and I have checked them after a long run. They show the engine is running rich. Do you have a part # for the longer reach plug cuz that is something I would definately try. Don, posting photos is not my strong point. The filters I'm using are open paper elements that are 4" tall and 6" wide with spun aluminium tops and bottoms. Thanks guys for the input, keep it coming. Gary

Well I give up! All of your suggestions of things to check to discover why my dual carbs run so rich have been tried and have not solved the problem. To re-cap, I have a rebuilt 218 with an Edgy head and cam, electronic ignition etc. etc. The fuel system has been cleaned so that the fuel to the carbs is spotless. To-day I checked to see how much pressure the new mechanical fuel pump was putting out, it was 3 p.s.i. Also did a compression test that showed 3 cylinders at 145 lbs. and 3 at 150 lbs. I run large air cleaners, my vaccuum guage shows no vaccuum leaks and the carbs have been checked and re-checked to make sure that they are OK. I have lowered the float level. So unless anyone has any bright ideas as to what's going on to-morrow I'm going back to 1 carb which is really going to screw up my great looking engine bay but at least I'll be able to drive the d--- thing. Have a great weekend all, Gary

Usually the reason decals come off in pieces is that they are old. Hobby shops sell a product called "Liquid Decal Film". A good coat of that on the decal before trying to remove it should solve the problem. And yes you can clearcoat the decal when it dries.

Would that be a toilet seat???

That is one sweet ride. Thanks for the photo Bob.

Thanks Norm I'll check that tomorrow.

Thanks for the replies guys. I have no problem with leaks but have recently developed a problem where the engine is running rich and stumbles and generally runs poorly under normal driving conditions. Runs good when you put your foot in it. Have checked for vaccum leaks and found none so thought I would check the float levels. This is a fresh engine and rebuilt carbs and up until a few days ago ran fine. I pulled the plugs to-day and they do show signs of running a little rich but are not completely black or wet. Any suggestions appreciated.

Can any of you fine chappies who are running dual B&B's tell me what you set your float levels at?

Tim, I think it's still mostly old farts pounding on a keyboard but some of them are pretty smart! Thanks again. Gary in it's finally sunny Toronto.

Thanks to all that replied to my question. You learn something every day. I did not know that the parts list was there. It will be very useful in the future.

Does anyone have a part number for the pinion seal for a 49 P18? Doesn't matter if its Mopar or aftermarket. Thanks

I agree with everyone else a 10'' stock clutch is all you need. I'm running a souped up flattie with an R10 O.D. and it works fine. Methinks you have other problems. Good luck.

A while back I Googled MDG 6001 and came up with three other part numbers that may, or may not, be the same. MDG 6002, MDF 6002 and MDF 6007. Anyone know if these units are the same?

I think it's closer to 600 lbs.

Anyone know for sure if a 12 volt starter from a 56 Plymouth is the same for a six or V8 ? The starter number is MDF 6007.

Do I get to drink the wine first? Thanks for the ideas guys.

The cork float on my fuel gauge sender has seen better days. I noticed that the brass float from a B&B carb is about the same size. Has anyone used one of these brass floats on a sender? Does the float weight matter? Any other suggestions? Cheers Gary