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Ivan_B

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Ivan_B last won the day on September 5 2024

Ivan_B had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    FL
  • My Project Cars
    1940 P10

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  • Location
    FL
  • Interests
    Classic cars

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  • Occupation
    IT

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  1. That's a good point. Last time I needed to store the car, I just filled it with the ethanol free gas, since it is supposed to last longer (I think). Also, I've recently seen some really advanced youtube engine people using an old Windex bottle to mist the gas right into the engine, just as the carb itself would do. Can't do any better than that . . . Well, unless you feed it some propane from a hose 😅 Go for it! 😉
  2. I was under impression that you can leave the steering link in place and just undo the clamp below the steering wheel to get the box loose to slide the new insulator in there. Has anyone done this? I also need to replace mine 🤔
  3. You are supposed to use fogging oil before storage, not afterwards 😅 Other than that, just crank it cold to get some oil circulated, as you've been doing, and that's it. Also, the fuel pump should fill the carb while you are cranking for oil, so I would suspect that no additional gas into the intake is necessary
  4. So the engine has not been run after what ever was done with it? Okay, just pressurize the system with some sort of pump, to be on a safe side, then
  5. Same as usual... I would check the bores, to make sure that there is no rust. Then, spray some oil, in there, and rotate the engine by hand (no plugs or ignition, of course) to lubricate everything before attempting to start it. You can certainly pressurize the oil system manually, as discussed above, but I suspect that this would be excessive for a working engine that was in storage.
  6. And this is probably the correct way of doing this 😉
  7. How many do you need? How about just making one yourself from some spring steel wire? The curvature does not look too complicated
  8. https://www.autopaper.com/1934-plymouth-dealer-color-prestige-sales-brochure-six-de-luxe-coupe-sedan.php The dealer brochures could be useful
  9. Just crank the engine, cold, to circulate the oil And, as previously mentioned, use proper lubrication during the assembly.
  10. Guys, are you seriously advising the "Italian tuneup" on a 1940 American car? 🙄 Also, to clean the engine sludge out - use synthetic oil with detergents, and change often, works very well. Also #2, seafoam will just evaporate from the oil before you know it.
  11. No, no, you are alright, a hinge type assembly at the floor side makes sense. I just do not recall seeing one, on my car. I'll take another look at it, later.
  12. That looks just like my setup - 40 tail pipe with water stains and cardboard to the left 😅 Sorry, I don't think you can do much about it. Other cars will do this too, depending upon the configuration of the exhaust, its age, and other factors. My newer fuel injected vehicle does not spit out of the pipe but it has a small rusty hole at the bottom of the front edge of the muffler and the black water comes out of there every-time you run it. Sometimes, a lot of water comes out 🙄
  13. I am that guy. But I no longer have a girlfriend with a grandpa's car because we've got married a long time ago 🤣 But seriously - all stock original cars are the best! 😍
  14. I just looked at my own 40 pedal - there is no hinge at the bottom. There is just a rubber block with two holes molded to the pedal body.
  15. You should've carefully inspected and tested the engine right away... I've also had a very bad experience with someone "rebuilding" a motorcycle engine for me, once. After that, I had to send it to another shop who discovered all sorts of "things" inside Now I know better...
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