Davidcc

To hotrodlincoln, Did you ever get an answer to your original question? Or, have you tried it yet? I also have a stock '38 Plymouth Coupe and have contemplated the same thing - lowering the front end by moving the front axle above the springs. Probably like you, though, I'm concerned about the loss of support and the stress on the U-bolts. I had new front springs made for mine, I could find or fabricate new spring mounts, and have considered heftier U-bolts made to fit but still not sure it would be safe to try. Also, maybe you have seen it already, but a 2" diameter tube axle with a 4" drop is available from Speedway Motors - "Dropped Gasser front axle, 48" wide, 4" drop" ($350+) and I believe it would fit our cars (plus allow for disc brakes) but then problems arise with the tie rod location and adding disc brakes would require a new and relocated master cylinder and all the work (and $$) that that would involve makes me shudder. Anyway, I know it's been awhile since your post but I would like to hear what, if anything, you came up with to lower your front end.

Thank you folks. Very helpful. Esp. pictures and "various conversion fittings" comment as the original question came from not being sure what the original set-up was/and is needed. I now believe a 3/16" (maybe 1/4") line will suffice and I will give the copper/nickel combination a try, being used to only steel line. One additional issue involved is how to be able to make the final turning adjustment of the distributor when using a solid, non-flexible line (do a coil at one end of the solid line?) I do not want to use a plastic or rubber line. Thanks again. David

Car is the 1938 Plymouth Coupe RoadKing with stock 201 and a Carter W-1 carb. What is the recommended inside diameter of the vacuum line going from the carburetor to the distributor? Thanks

I have an electrical wiring question concerning a stock '38 Plymouth Road King coupe with a 201cid engine and original gauges. The only changes will be using a 12 volt, negative ground system with a 12 volt generator and voltage regulator. I am using the wiring diagram from the Chrysler Corp.'s "Plymouth Shop Manual Codes P5-P6" (1937). The Code P6 diagram on page 52A shows 7 wires and their groupings going to the Ammeter but does not show which of the 3 connectors these wires go to. The accompanying sketch is my best guess as to the correct wiring. Connector "C" has constant continuity to "D." When a fuse is installed continuity is continued to "A" and "B." The code P6 diagram states that wire #17, coming from the starter, is the "feed" wire so I've placed it at connector "C" in order to protect the other wires via the fuse if there is a problem. Connector "A" and "B" are connected to the Ammeter coils and activate the needle for a + or - reading. So, can anyone tell me if my sketch is correct, and if not, what is the correct wiring. Thanks.

I have an electrical wiring question concerning a stock '38 Plymouth Road King coupe with a 201cid engine and original gauges. The only changes will be using a 12 volt, negative ground system with a 12 volt generator and voltage regulator. I am using the wiring diagram from the Chrysler Corp.'s "Plymouth Shop Manual Codes P5-P6" (1937). The Code P6 diagram on page 52A shows 7 wires and their groupings going to the Ammeter but does not show which of the 3 connectors these wires go to. The accompanying sketch is my best guess as to the correct wiring. Connector "C" has constant continuity to "D." When a fuse is installed continuity is continued to "A" and "B." The code P6 diagram states that wire #17, coming from the starter, is the "feed" wire so I've placed it at connector "C" in order to protect the other wires via the fuse if there is a problem. Connector "A" and "B" are connected to the Ammeter coils and activate the needle for a + or - reading. So, can anyone tell me if my sketch is correct, and if not, what is the correct wiring. Thanks.