Labrauer

I have a P15 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe Coupe that has what I was told had a 230cI engine in it. I checked the numbers on the engine and came up with P15*I020862 is this a true 230 engine or something else? I also am missing the rubber O ring that goes on the carb. for the breather to sit on so you can screw it tight on the carb. The carb is a carter ball & ball 0370 at least that is what is on it. The carb has a manual choke I can't seem to get to work right. Pull the choke button out and it will choke push it in and it will stay half choked. If you give it gas the choke on top of carb goes back on choke which makes the engine run pretty rich I would imagine. Anyone know where I can get this part and give any information on the engine will be gratefull. Thanks as always for the information, Larry Brauer:confused:

That's going to be the problem around here finding an old timer that does lock work. All we have are young people that think they are lock smiths because they can pick a lock or two. Anyway I left the lock with him and he so happens to have only two blanks that will fit the lock so I am keeping my fingers scrossed that he can make them work. Just like cars all we have around here are cars no later than 2005 all the junk yards crush the cars as fast as they can seems like.

Thanks for the information guys on the locks. I will take the one I have and see if they can make a key so it will fit both sides of the car. I have tried everything I know to get the other out but no buge at all. I tried drilling, using ez outs lube and letting it set for a day or two but no dice. Hopefully I can get it all straightened out today. Anyway thanks for waying in on the question this forum is the greatest, Larry:rolleyes:

I want to get my door locks rekeyed as I don't have a key to them on my 48 plymouth. Passangers side lock came right out but can't get the drivers side out for nothing. The alen wrench is striped out so I tried an ez out with no luck so far. Question can a lock smith key the one that is out so it will also work on the drivers side? Anyone know? Or anyone have any suggestions on geting the other one out so I can take both to lock smith? Thanks, Larry:(

Ok so what you are saying is that I have to put a new transmission in the car to have overdrive. What kind of transmission should I use for the 48 plymouth with the truion pin type u joints. Should it be one out of the same car year model or what will bolt up to a 230 ci engine. Thanks for the input as always, Larry

This is a P15 Plymouth Special Deluxe Coupe that I am asking about. I have a three speed on the column and wonder how it works and where it plug or goes on the transmittion. If someone has pics I would like to see what I am looking at and know how easy it is to install. I don't know what transmittion I have but I will look tomorrow for some numbers. Thanks for the information so far, Larry Brauer

Can you have an overdrive on a standard three speed on the colume transmittion? I keep hearing about the overdrives in these old cars I guess they have been converted to automatic transmittions? I have never heard of an overdrive with a standard transmittion. Larry Brauer:confused:

On the front wheels on a 48 Plymouth when bleeding the breaks which cylender do you bleed first the top one or the bottom one. It has two half cylenders on the front breaks so which one do you bleed for air first top or bottom one? Thanks for the help as always, Larry:confused:

Yesterday I finally got the rear break drums off the 48 Plymouth what a job that was only to find that the break linings are just fine. I need to get the drums turned anyway because I think one is out of round as it catches when you turn it. I had to heat the drivers side up with a tourch and beat the heck out of the puller but if finally broke loose after soaking it with spray for a couple of weeks. I was thinking of putting some anti cees on the axel so next time they might come off easier. What do you guys think about that? I mean the drum isn't going to turn on the axle as the lock key on the drum and axle will prevent that from happening I would think. Thanks for the feedback, Larry Brauer:rolleyes:

I hope everyone has a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year from Alvin Texas. You people are the best so may God Bless each and every one of you. Thanks for all the good information you all have given me on the short time I have been here on this thread and forum. I have the up most respect for each and everyone of you for the help with my 48 Plymouth. May you have a full and richfull of life in 2011. A BIG THANKS, Larry Brauer:D

Glad to hear that everyone got out of the house. I feel for you in this time of need just before Christmas. I hope God will bless this family in their time of need. Larry Brauer

I hope everyone on the forum is alright with all the rain up north and in California. We get rains like that in Texas along the coast all the time which floods the yard but it drains pretty fast. Anyway hope everyone on the forum has a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. May God Bless each and everyone of you. Larry Brauer

Thanks for the information you people have given me. It sounds like they are heck to get off so I will try and find a hub puller. The drum on the passagners side must be out of round cause you can turn the wheel around and then it will hang up in one place then turn free again. Anyway I need to check the break shoes out to see how much pad is left on them. Thanks again, Larry Brauer

Is there a special tool that you need to remove the rear drum from a 48 Plymouth? I have tried to remove both sides and can't get them to come off the axel. I tried a axel puller but they will not budge. Soked them with wd 40 and still nothing moving. Thanks for the information, Larry Brauer

Yesterday I jacked the car up and put it on jack stands and got in it started it up and put in first gear. Let it idle in first gear then looked under it to look at the drive shaft. The drive shaft was moving a little up and down when the wheels were turning. So I am thinking it is maybe the u joints or (Ihope not) the drive shaft is a little bent. I have priced the u joints and they are $125 each which means 250 for both front and back plus the shipping. I guess I better take it out and check this. How can you tell it you have a bent drive shaft? Lay it on the floor and roll it back and forth or what? Thanks for the information as alway, Larry Brauer

My 48 Plymouth has locks on both doors the glove compartment and the truck or as the older folks called it the turtle.

Is the two tail lights on a 48 plymouth suppost to light up when you apply the breaks or is the only stop light the one on the truck lid in the middle? Is there suppost to be three stop lights instead of that one? The tail lights light up when lights are turned on and they work as signal lights but not stop lights. Is something wired up wrong and if it is does anyone have a diagram of how they are suppost to be wired up. I would think that all three should work as break lights. Thanks for the information as always, Larry Brauer braular@yahoo.com

It only seems to make a noise when I am truning or about to spot at a light or stop sign. I am going to remove the front drums and make sure that it isn't maybe the spring on the break hasn't come off. Or maybe the breaks themselves need to be replaced first of all. Thanks for the information, Larry Brauer

Is it possible to grease or oil the throw out bearing on a standerd transmition without taking the tranny out or should it be oiled or not. It has started to make a noise like it is dry. The car still shifts like it is suppost to and it isn't slipping or anything like that. Just some of the time I hear a noise like the bearing is going out. Thanks for all the responce as always, Larry Brauer braular@yahoo.com 713-410-7481

;)Not yet I have been busy on other things now. I will get on it as soon as I get some free time. You know it is that time of the year when everything is in a rush to get done so you put other things off for a while till Christmas is over and your life gets back to normal. Larry Brauer

John R I would like more information on the guy that has a modern drive shaft for my 48 plymouth coupe that will bolt right in. Thanks, Larry Brauer:confused:

Thanks for the welcome on the forum I have been here for some time but never put in my information on my profile till yeaterday. This is what I have been told so far on the car vibration is to flip the drive shaft and change the slitly bent rim in the back of the car to see if this helps any. I am going to do this as soon as I find the time and will keep you informed on the outcome. The vibration is like starts at about 30mph to 60mph and the faster you go the worse it seems to get. The car will do 70mph but I don't drive it that fast because of the vibration at least not till I find out what is causing it. I can feel it in the steering wheel and also on the floor board and the dash board and seat. The mirrows even shake back and forth. I am also going to check the engine mounts to see if they are ok on the car. The car has the old trounion ball type u joints on it and I know that the back rubber boot is no good with it being ripped apart so I have to change that also. No I don't know how to post pics on the forum as of yet. Most of my pics have no URL address so I don't know what to do to post some. Thanks for any information you can give me to try, Larry Brauer braular@yahoo.com 713-410-7481

I haven't had the chance to change the drive shaft around yet nor have I had the chance to change the tire to the spare. I will do this as soon as I can and get back to you on the results. The vibration is from about 30 to 60 all the time. It is not a stop and again problem. I can feel it in the steering wheel and also in the seat of the car also in the dash and floor board. The mirrows even shack back and forth. I am also going to check the motor mounts to see if they are ok. The car has plenty of power and will do 70 but I don't drive it that fast because of the vibration. It seems to get worse at a higher speed than a lower one. The car has dual exhaust on it and I thought that maybe the pipes where hitting each other but they have more than plenty of room all around them. Oh the car is fitted with the touinon ball type u joints. I would like to change to a more modern type but don't know if that can be done and what it all involves to do it. thanks for all the information and I'll keep in touch on the outcome, Larry Brauer braular@yahoo.com 713-410-7481

I guess if a 48 Plymouth car didn't come with a 230ci engine in it that means it got changed before I got the car. I purchased the car from Fast Lane Classic Cars in St. Charles Mo. The people there are real nice to talk to. I have to get the numbers off the engine to see what it came out of. Any how I don't know much about the old car except my dad had the same car when I was growing up and it was the first car I learned to drive when I was just 10 years old down the back roads. I have been looking for this same car ever since my father sold his for a little $ 25.00. I loved that car and now I have one myself. I call it my dream car which I always dreamed of having one one day.

I have posted my status and profile where I live. I have updated my members list too. I am from Alvin, Texas and I am disabled since 2005 from a viral infection called Guilden Bree'. I have never been the same since that time. I have my good days and my bad days but I take them one at a time and get by the best I can. Larry Brauer