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Posts
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Labrauer last won the day on June 1 2023
Labrauer had the most liked content!
Reputation
71 ExcellentAbout Labrauer
- Birthday 10/20/1954
Contact Methods
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AIM
braular@aol.com
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Yahoo
Braular@yahoo.com
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Biography
I am disabled and take life one day at a time. I became disabled in 2005 with Guildon Bree' sendrum.
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Occupation
Before I got disabled I worked for National Oilwell Varco
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
18611 McKay Alvin, TX. 77511
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Interests
I love working and driving my old cars around getting the thumbs up when someone passes by or I pass them. I love woodworking in my spear time. I love talking to the geese, chickens, ducks, goats, squirrel and dogs in the morning when feeding them on the farm. These are just a few of the animals we have. Just a way to clear my mind and get a friendly response without something negative coming out of their mouths. LOL
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My Project Cars
I have two project cars at this time and they are two 1948 Plymouth,s. I have a coupe and a sedan that I love to drive more than the 2000 F250 Ford pickup or the 2007 Toyota we have also.
Converted
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Location
I live in Alvin, Texas or I should say a little town called Algoa but my mailing address is Alvin.
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Interests
Woodworking, Fishing and camping, Old cars and trucks
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I am curies where do you get the vacuum from to hook up these boosters and being that a 230 motor doesn't have much vacuum will it be enough to support the booster and what keeps the vacuum from leaking back from the booster. I'm confused?
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It's my understanding that an R10 overdrive won't work with an electronic ignition is this correct? I have an R10 overdrive in my 48 Plymouth but also installed an electronic distributor for my 230 engine for better starting and haven't tried the overdrive. I have also changed to a 12 volt system. I am thinking of taking the overdrive out of the car and putting the original transmission back in. Any feedback on this?
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Can you have an electronic ignition when you have an R10 overdrive installed in car. Will the overdrive work or not?
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I have a 230 engine in my 48 plymouth coupe that I need to time at top dead center. I put a electronic distributor on the car and the manufacturer says that it probably needs to be set about 18* before top dead center. Why I don't know but the car sounds like it's missing out. I think if I can pull the distributor out maybe I can just put it back in when I get it at top dead center. My question is how do I know when the engine is at top dead center without removing the water pump and the timing chain cover to line up the timing marks on the timing chain. Is there an easier way.
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Chrysler created 81,065 DeSoto Sixes in 1929. In 1934, Chrysler prioritized DeSoto’s over Dodge branding and gave these cars Airflow bodies which induced a smaller wheelbase. In 1935, Chrysler introduced the Airstream, which sold better than the Airflow models. The Airstream design was similar to past Desoto’s though slightly modernized. However, the most significant change in DeSoto Sixes came with the 1942 model with pop-up headlights. It was the first mass-produced vehicle in North America to include them. DeSoto sold the addition as “Air-Foil” lights.
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https://www.facebook.com/reel/1967075043627335?s=yWDuG2&fs=e&mibextid=Nif5oz
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Problem solved just had the starter done in 12 volts with new gears and all. Starts like a dream in the mornings. Found a man that worked for a starter and alternator rebuilding shop that closed down a couple of years ago. This man worked there 24+ years and when they closed the doors he bought all their equipment and opened a little shop at his home. Took the starter in on a Monday morning and picked it up two days later Wednesday around noon. The cost $207.00 parts, labor and all. Looked like a brand new one just bought out of a box.
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When I did mine engine to electronic ignition I found a distributor that was all made up and was a direct fit. I was trying to find the number and the sellers name but I haven't had any luck yet. My car has been converted to 12 volts though. Works really really well on start ups. I also had to get my starter done in 12 volts because after running a 6 volt starter on 12 volts many years the starter finely gave up.
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I like the ones Sniper and Plymouth Adams has mounted on the cars but as Sniper said location is the key. I know it seems everything is some what hard to find and a lot of times it take some engineering to make it look halfway decent. My 48 four door sedan has the ones similar to Donald's and they do pretty well I just don't like the look on the car. Sorry Donald. I just don't know if I am qualified to install the ones like Plymouth Adams or Sniper. Question for you two is there a method of finding the location for drilling the holes besides sitting in the car and having someone hold the mirrors in place and still clear the vent window when it's opened.
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Trying to find some mirrors that can go on the outside of the doors on a 48 Plymouth P15 that you can see the traffic. I have two on my car now but you can't see anything in the one on the passenger side of the car because of the vent window blocking the view. Does anyone have any idea or pictures of what you have.
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SteveR no I haven't looked at any of these yet I guess that's a good idea before I order a new starter thanks man I really never thought of that
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Doug and Deb are you kidding me here we had a few years ago but they have all gone out of business. Just like all the radiator shops there ain't no more around here and the last one around here said they wouldn't work on the old cone type of radiator that's why I had to buy a new one for the old car.
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Do you think this would fit into the current starter Plymouth 230 flathead motor if so I'll get it. I have been running a 6 volt one for years but yesterday it gave up the ghost and was dragging until it quit all together
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Where can I find a 12 volt starter for my 48 Plymouth 230 engine The car has been converted from 6 volt to 12 volt
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Only thing to remember is don't use to thick of a rubber because if you do you will run into the problem of lining up the bolt holes for the bolts at least the ones where the nuts are welded to the frame