Fireball

I'm in the map, the most Northern dot. To me it says photo uploaded but nothing is shown

Here's my interior shots that I promised. I just made the sill plates today out of aluminium. My camera is Canon PowerShot A570IS nothing fancy. 7.1 megas

Thanks gentlemen, glad you like it also. Phil, yup indeed this is the very same Illinois car. After dozen squarefeets of new steel plus some minor it's still regognisable? Oh I need to hammer it further... Skirts are plastic and lake pipes are not functioning.

Tragic, I'll shoot some interioir pics tomorrow. Nates, Trim went back quite ok, not perfect though. The pieces under door handles are cracked in half. I need new ones there and handles could be better also, as well as drivers side headlight bezel and the rocker trims are the worst. Andy, Those roof ladders prevent snow falling over my cars, or somebodys head.

Hi fellows Here's a snapshot of my new looks for summer 2008 I think '49 Plymouth bumper is needed in front...

Nice car and even nicer name;)

here's Lou Earles car and his way around woodgraining, very nice indeed. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=2626 Pekka I suppose Miranol or similar enamel is just fine, they don't sell Rustoleum here. I'm doing mine at some point also.

Looks good, those air cleaners are amazing, any idea of the brand?

Thankz boys, let me reveal the secret of cheapo WWWs, it really looks as good in real life as in pics. This guy is the one to blame: http://www.mbzponton.org/valueadded/other/tirepaint.htm I ordered the paint from him and followed his instructions. I saw good feedback about his product in other forums, and since its pricing is very moderate I thought give or take, and so far so good. But we'll see how long it lasts during the summer. I used 3M masking tape for lining the curve. 1940mopar my paint is not HotRod Flatz, I used semi-matt industrial 2-k polyurethane flattened 30% with PPG matting paste. My own mix that I tested and surprisingly result is not that bad at all. Just the kind of satin appeal I was after

I painted some whitewalls on my radials, and made an aluminium adapter for bullets to my caddy hubcaps. Turned out better than I expected. I also cut half a circle from my coils and installed new upper control arm bushings. The stance is getting better

Makes me drool, what a beauty

Thanks for the thumbs up guys! It turned out quite nice, some dust here and there but nothing major. Few areas do sag a bit but those are easily repaired, just sand them down carefully and spot paint with my airbrush. That's one of the reasons actually why satin paints are easier to get nice than shiny ones, errors are not that visible. You just can't avoid little things landing into your fresh paint when you have to move around in tiny space. That green foil hanging on the walls helps a lot. It's plastic that car painters here use for covering, it's real thin and static so it absorbs most of the spraying mist, keeps your walls and shelves clean etc. I also covered the floor with thicker plastic. Water also ties up the dust, but I did not want my garage build up the humidity, that reduces the drying time for paint. So this time I didn't wet the floor. Rockabillybassman yours looks geat, good job!

Very well said, it's just like that.

I can't definately recommend to anybody totally sane to do jobs this massive in space like that, but it's just me. Even I know it's not smart I'll go for it, wanting to do things myself and learn while on that road. I have no any special ventilation, but the HVLP gun I use is quite good, not that much mist. Ofcourse I'm wearing a mask with double filtration. This time I used industrial El Cheapo 2-k polyurethane paint mixed with PPG flattener 30%. This is simply because of cost effectiveness, cheap paint, very strong and contains rust prevention. Furthermore it's only for this summer, and will not react with whatever real paint I'll choose as a final. It was real good yesterday after the normal painting procedure, but unluckily this tone of orange does not cover too well. I had to sand it a little and add rounds today to get rid of the hues underneath, and what it did was that the paint got more shiney when it went thicker. Thats what usually happens with suede finish. Anyhow it turned out quite OK considering the conditions, and especially the guy who did it, meaning me...

With these prices I'll let Lord guide me on my way instead of compass, even I'm not part of the church

I'd say unreal, although some people do pay crazy money over parts. I think good example are Mopar e-body parts. On that scene I wouldn't hesitate to say it's a real deal for an emblem like that. My buddy paid $ 600 for Cuda mirrors, I wouldn't waste more than $30 myself There will be a day when even saying HEMI out loud will cost you hundred bucks

Here's Empirors new clothes for this summer, satin orange. As you see my garage is not optimal as paintbooth, but mans gotta do what a mans gotta do, when your pockets are not loaded with green. This is not the final paint or color for my car, but will go as temporary aid for couple of months. Now I'm anxious to get all the parts installed, but I still have to do the final polishing for trim. They were painted, bondoed into body etc. so it has been quite a tricky one to get them shine again at all. Luckily they are stainless

I'm so weak with electronics, I only know that electricity is blue. What does this DC-DC converter do? Does this mean you are able to use modern radio-cd with 6V pos.ground system or what?

Thanks Pat. Surprisingly low numbers. I wouldn't aim for zero with any of these measurements, let's not start a battle out of these please but according to my experience zero is not good. The more caster you have the more steadier the ride is, but in the same time your steering gets stiffer. Zero toe-in is not something worth trying to achieve as well, shoot for that 1/8" instead, more stabile that way. Maybe theres some caster "built in" the king pin, I havent studied that, but zero means it's totally upwards positioned and definately that'll be a loose and unstable ride at roads. But like said, these are just my personal preferences, I'm not saying the factory guys had it all wrong, obviously they did not. This "zeroing" just surprises me.

Thanks Normspeed, so I learnt something new today again.

Please forgive me my ignorance, lets blame my limited language, but what-who is GTK? Anyhow I totally agree, this forum has great and unique spirit!

Rodney, sad there was no internet and forums like this back in 1992 when I lived in Salisbury MD. I never get to know anybody into old cars, and never found any of these places. Got frustrated after couple of months and moved down to FL, but that's another story. Looks like fun to me, sun is shining, plenty of old iron around and a friend to share your interest with. Here it's -10 C, two feet of snow, no salvage yards and my sons three and five y.o are not yet that interested of the recently bought control arm bushings:D

I consider 75% at first trial well done for Friday night... These tests are hilarious after couple of beers

After half a bottle of Everclear you Neverclear!

yes Joe I have the manual, but you know, real men don't read instructions:p This eccentric bushing sets the camber, pretty straight forward, and I still have everything else untouched so lets see how far from the truth I am after cutting the coils and changing these parts...