Big_John

And titles the thread "Front seat question" LOL!! It does get a little confusing at times.... But the rear seat picture is just there to show the new covers. The back seat has two upright "anchors" (for want of a better word that the spring clips too just as the 54 Plymouth you described does.

Could be a short to ground from the wire coming from the horn button. I'd look at that first.

I was there but didn't see you both times I went by the car.

Thanks Tom! I'll bet that's the way this seat is supposed to be too.

Yep, my rear seat is like that too. My question is about the front seat though... LOL.

I'm in the middle of redoing the upholstery in my 53 Windsor. So far so good, rear seats and door panels are done. I've stripped the front seats down to the springs. The back portion of the front seat was clipped to the seat frame and then the cover goes over the back and the frame, but the bottom (or seat) part just kind of sits on the frame. Is this right? Should there be something holding the seat to the frame?? BTW, here's the back seat: And the door panels:

I like Newbomb Turk's version the best!

I saw a thread on the HAMB about using oxalic acid on chrome. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=693523 They referenced another thread at a bike forum: http://www.vintagebmx.com/community/index.php?showtopic=4004702 I tried this using some deck cleaner with oxalic acid as it's main ingredient and I gotta say it works great! Just drop the chrome piece in and let it soak for a bit. Yes, the pits are still there, but at least it is shiny again.

Where was that?

Well.... Organ donors have to come from somewhere.....

If just the pitch was reversed, that prop would pull the boat backwards. If the engine rotation is reversed, the pitch needs to reversed too. Anyway.... That flathead would be much cooler then the V-6 Cheby in my boat (better known as the "hole in the water that I throw money in")

Most torqueflite explosions are from a failure of the over-running clutch. A lot of times it will happen after the first run after a drive shaft or rear end failure. The over-running clutch gets damaged from the sudden "free wheeling" and if the trans is not pulled apart and inspected, they never know until it's too late. When it fails, the internals will spin up to 2 1/2 times engine RPM and an explosion like those shown happens. IIRC, I read that the picture in the first post in the 64 Dodge was from that and not from a "neutral start", but my memory could be wrong.

I bought floor pans for my 53 Chrysler and had a local guy do the work. Nice vendor to deal with, but the parts are all bent on a brake and not stamped. They were usable, but not without some work.

My two cents.. First, Uhaul, Ryder etc. doesn't let you do this. Something happens and the truck gets damaged and you'll be on the hook for the damages. BTW, buy the insurance... Your credit card doesn't cover collision damages on a rental truck like it does on a rental car. I found this out the hard (and expensive) way. Second, I've never seen a good makeshift way of loading and unloading a car from a truck. Yes, it can be done, racers do it all the time, but you really need to do it the right way with some good, strong ramps. I've seen it done best by load/unloading to a loading dock. Of course, then you have to get the car down from the dock. Rent a Uhaul trailer. If you don't have a truck, rent one of their small ones. The trailer will be the easiest and safest way.... probably the cheapest in the long run.

While I haven't dealt with these guys that much, I believe the business was sold back in late November. I called in December and in talking to the new owner, he said he had installed a new computer system and software after buying the business. I think Andy may still be there, at least for a while. Businesses are bought and sold all the time and it's not unusual for the owner to stay around for a while until the new owner has everything under control.

If your block gets up to 300 degrees, you're going to have more problems then the paint looking OK. This is really the wrong paint (Por-20) to use for your engine block. If you want to use a Por-15 product (although I don't know why) for your engine, look at their engine paint rather then their high temperature paint. IMHO, the engine paint will last much longer and look better. Use the right stuff for the job. I personally like the Dupli-Color engine paint myself, but any good high solid paint works well. Here's the last engine I did.

If you are ever around Newport News, Virginia, another great one to go to is the Army Transportation museum in Ft. Eustis. They cover a bit of everything.

POR-20 is their hi temp paint for exhaust manifolds. I don't believe it's intended as an engine enamel. http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/high%20temp%20directions.pdf With any high temperature paint, it's only as good as what it's painted over.

We recently hired a young man that could not subtract 2 from 10 without a calculator. In fact, he did not believe that anyone else could do it either! I showed him two numbers, .0001" and .001" and asked him which one he thought was larger. He didn't know. He also didn't think it was a big deal to show up an hour and a half late on his third day either and didn't understand why I fired him the following day.

I'm afraid to say it, but there is a general dumbing down of America and Idiocracy may be a true prediction of things to come. Last year, we had a local business journal do an article on our business. The "journalist" (note quotations) was an older gentleman, seemed reasonably intelligent and asked a lot of the right questions. When the article came out.... Well..... It looked like something a seventh grader would write for a class assignment.

$30 each at Rock Auto. That's probably the cheapest, but just give that part number to any parts store and they will cross it over to other brands.

I bought a reamer on ebay for a little over $50. The shank is the same size as the king pin and the pilot is smaller, so reaming the pressed in bushing will be a snap.

My first car. Had it in high school and then a few years later I got bit with the drag racing bug. This was about 1978 or so. The car usually went mid-11's in this configuration, but I must have been playing some games with the times that day. Got it down into the high tens with more tire and motor. I sold it after I got married the first time.... Shoulda kept the car.

I have the same in my 53 Windsor. My favorite machine shop couldn't hone the bronze bushing to size because of not being able to align with the needle bearing. I bought a reamer on Ebay and I'm hoping I can make that work. Anyone have any experience with this?

I'm part owner of a Test Equipment Calibration company in Syracuse. http://www.calsource.com We have 20 people working for us in one form or another. I stay out of the management side of the business for the most part except for some upper management responsibilities. My real duties are as an onsite tech specializing in dimensional tools. Ever seen the guy that comes in and checks the granite surface plates? That's one of the many things I do. Last year we had the chance to buy another company. http://www.uticametals.com/ We make cloisonné and champlevé automotive and motorcycle emblems and badges. If you own a Harley, a Jeep or a Viper, that's our badge! It hasn't been a money maker for us just yet, but it should pay off eventually.