DutchEdwin

I have a question on pouring water on the pump as it is made from I think alu-zink alloy....is it likely to crack when you do this? The base of my pump attached to the engine is very hot (to hot to touch) where it is attached to the engine. So you will create a lot of stress inside the material as zamac (the alu-zink alloy) is a very brittle material. When it is made from aluminium it will hold. I did do temperature shrinkage tests by joining a aluminium pipe (hot + 200C) with a nitrogen cooled flange (- 160C) without cracking the material.

Hi woody, I'm enjoying this for 10 years now, going from 1 problem to the next ten. But step by step getting closer to the solution. Thanks for the pics of the heat shield, but I think I do not need one because my fuel pump is at the front of the engine, unlike yours, that is under the exhaust. But my pump is still hot at the base. Theoratically it can cause a vapour lock inside the pump. I'm thinking of putting in a plastic shim of 1/4 inch or so to insulate between the pump base and the chain cover where the pump is bolted on, like you can do with the carb or shield it from the heat coming from the radiator cooling. As an extra insurance I'm going to install a small fan at the pump temporary to cool it when I stop the car, to reduce or eliminate the possible vapour lock until I solved it. It will also indicate if I'm on the right track. Franky, thanks for the comment, but I had the tanks cleaned out and blew the line with 8 bar (116 psi). The flex line is new. Also I did the gas can trick with the same result. Ps, woody, I'm not trying to hijack your tread, but contribute to share the knowledge.

Woody, We are at the same point of this problem. The heatriser, mine is operating very smoothly when I rotate it. Also, when I drove the car the heatriser is in hot position also at idle, so blocking the passage to the intake. I do not know how fast it happens when only idling. For my case, my engine starts to stall after 20 minutes of idling. Also after driving and I shut it down I cannot start it after it sits about 2 minutes. After 15 to 30 minutes it starts up after a few cranks. diagnose: -) In my case the fuel in the carb is still there. -) The glasbowl is still full but that doesn't matter. The bowl is a filter that reduces the flow rate of the fuel by creating a big volume thus letting the particles in the fuel sink to the bottom of the bowl. If there is no fuel getting to the bowl, it still looks full because the inlet and outlet are above the bowl glass. -) fuel line between pump (mechanical type) and carb. I did disconnect the fuel line at the bowl (mine is just before the carb). There was no fuel coming when cranking. When cold to fuel immediately. -) inline fuel filter. I have a transparent plastic one just before the fuel pump. I can see there is fuel in this filter and also see the fuel moving when I crank the engine (the filter is placed horizontal). The fuel line and filter are very far away from the engine to prevent heating up. My guess what's wrong: The fuel pump is attached to the engine. The big hollow arm that goes to the engine is really hot (too hot to touch). I think there is a vapour lock created in the fuel pump. I have no heat shield to protect the pump. If someone can post a picture I would appreciate it. Possibilities: In my case it can be the pump is bad. I have one coming from rockauto at the moment. If the vapour lock is a heat problem to the pump, a shield could help. If that is not enough, an extra inline electric fuel pump could do the trick. I saw that Roberts has an 6V electric pump for $65. Can anyone explain how to put an electric pump in with still the mechanical pump in place without causing a problem (we do not have a return fuel line to the tank like modern cars have)? And do I need the pump from Roberts or are there other posibilities?

Joe, my regulator only allows 35 amps. I need one that can give 57 amps. So I'm looking for a replacement. When I order things in the US I try to make a shopping list to save shipment cost. The list in my previous mail shows what I need from Rockauto. The only thing I do not understand is that the shipment of distributor parts, condenser, rotor, points and coil costs $395 to Europe. I asked them what is wrong, I got the answer it is probably the size or weight of the package . Well it's most certain the program confusing, and I'm certainly not going to pay $750 shipment. I can get a ticket to fly to NY my self for €483. So now I'm looking for an alternative to get these parts. Going to try Napa if they are willing to ship. In that case I could also order a vacuum meter. Other parts stores are welcome.

Joe, just my 2 cents. When I had an Opel (well it's Europe here eh Fred ) I had a metal rattling of the engine when I accelerated on the hot engine. Looked for it for weeks as I didn't know that much of engines like I do now. (in fact still is a little compared to some of you guy's). It turned out to be a loose part on the tail pipe. One bolt of shield was loose, making the shield rattle only on acceleration. To check put some tension on the tail pipe in different directions and see if the noise is still there. Noise travels, confusing you where it comes from. Good luck

Joe, I read your setbacks. Good luck on tackling them. Hang in there, in the end it was fun, you've learned a lot but wish you did'n't stumble over it at that time. Didn't know the VR where amps rated. should 've read the manual better. The type in my manual is Autolite VBE 6001A. rated at 57 amps, 7.2 - 7.5 volts. At Rockauto they have two types, Airtex/Welles VR1116 and STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS VR4 . No mention of amp rates. Anybody got a clue if these are the right one? As I looked at Rockauto for my shopping list. It turned out to be a total of $236. That is a lot but..... the economy shipment $780 . They got something wrong here. When I posted US-address instead (zip 72510, don't know where it it but apparently is an American zip-code) of The Netherlands is was $47. Dropped them an email about this. Will see what they come with for an answer.

Hey guy's, just one more serious question about the voltage regulator. When the engine is running, should the contact points rattle or should they stay steady. On my car, with the ammeter at charge, all points are steady. With 0 charge, also steady . I checked the generator. It gives 35 amps. Only the book rates 45 amps. I turned on the lights and fan's, drawing a total of 36 amps. then the ammeter shows a little negative, the generator still 35 amps. It has new brushes. Is there something wrong with the generator?

Thanks for the posts. I'll try to measure the pressure and volume. Just a thought, as the pump does not deliver fuel when hot, but plenty then cold, could it be the lever is getting stuck and does not moving the diaphragm enough due to heat, or one or more valves getting stuck due to the heat? B.t.w. the micro air bubbles that appear in the fuel filter are on the pump side of the filter, like air is pushed back in from the pump towards the fuel tank.

When the car is hot, it is hard to start or will not start at all.Took some time today to find the issue. The carb. shows no percolation. Not drop of fuel will appear at the nozzles. Because the car tends to start 1 time and will not after that, I disconnected the fuel line at the glass filter bowl, just before the carb. to see if it gets any fuel (see picture, the car is finished now so fenders and hood present). Result: There is no fuel coming when starting. When I look at the plastic fuel filter mounted before the fuel pump I sometimes see some foam/micro air bobbles appear for a short time (1 stroke of the pump). Now I guess the pump is bad or there is a vapour lock in the pump. I can change the pump. But more important is, what can I do if there is a vapour lock in the pump?

Jack, you can visit me, I've got one... Great pictures though, also like the two tone dodge

Joe, glad you solved it. Here it is impossible to find a new vacuum gauge you bought in a shop like napa. Just to few people mess around with the old engines, or the tools lasts to long.....

You tell me. Could be the radiator cap venting. When I shut down and looked there was no smoke, damp. And on oil on the side of the engine, or in the coolant or coolant in the oil.

Got it, and then down hill to 12 m below sea level Keep you posted when I have the stethoscope ready.

Joe, not all hopes lost. When I did my first check on the engine vacuum I used a normal vacuum meter from a hardware store. Had exactly the same as you, fast jumping needle and sometimes when I did hold the gauge in my hand the needle was a little more steady. A colleague gave me an old vacuum meter like Don showed. The needle was rock steady on this one. What's the difference? The gauge I used was hooked up with a "hard" rubber tube, the other one with a soft rubber tube. Giving it a better seal. So it turned out I had a leak at tube of the gauge. So before you take the engine apart, use a second gauge to test. Could be a simple thing like this. Good luck

I made it having the car ready for driving my graduated son the his school ball. It was fun, all sorts of vehicles from a chopping cart to a mk2 jaguar and of course US oldies. This event of dropping off the last years students take about 1,5 hours and the drive is about 1 mile. This drive is notorious for old timer engines running hot. But....I made it...until the last 75 meters. Unfortunately had to shut the engine down with nowhere to go. But heck, what student can say...The principal took me in personally....by pushing the car the last 10 metres:p He had fun and got good credits for his ride. But what happened. As the engine is hard to start when hot I let it run all the time. The ride took about 30 minutes as I was 1/3 in front. The temp meter was ok, about 3/4 on total scale. Then the engine started rattling, like tapping of the valves, the hydraulic valves are not getting enough oil I thought. Also had a light gray plume coming from the front at that moment. I Shut it down immediately after that. Because the engine was idling all the time the oil pressure was low. After the car cooled for 1 hour, it started right up, the valve rattle stopped after 10 sec. So must have been an oil problem, oil to hot? Any ideas what is wrong here. I should be able to let the car idle for 1 hour in a traffic jam!

Greg, I did all you stated, except....I live in a flat country. All the hill I have available is a river dike, 10 meters high. I did retard timing until I got the max vacuum. The reading of timing went way off scale on the crank shaft. It must have been like 15-20 degrees. But the vacuum reading was 22 inch. I run the car now at 6 degrees because the engine had the best stable rpm at 450 rpm. I know it is not ideal yet. should probably more like 10 degree. but still the vacuum is then about 19-20 inch. There is something I did wrong or not set right. When the car has ran for 10 miles it will not start or very hard start after 3 minutes My next step is to change all electric, coil etc. To set the ignition at best my idea was to have an electronic stethoscope to hear the knock before you can hear it in the interior. That way you are safe and have the engine run best. The article is about building one your own. Was hoping someone did this before. If not, I'll be the first.

Now, my car is running, only question remains, what is the best timing. To early will result in blowing holes in the pistons, to late will give bad mileage. So our worst enemy is the engine knock. But how to detect? I ran over an article that states that most engines from 1995 have a knock sensor. But can you use this device on our old engines. I did a little google and ran into two articles, http://www.mez.co.uk/turbo7.html (go to the section Knock Detection Part 1 and 2. And referring to an article in autospeed magazine http://autospeed.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=0353 on how to build a cheap electronic stethoscope from a hard-hearing device. Has anyone done this before? enjoy.

Don't know if you already did find one but on my car it came as a standard, 1955 P27, car as described below. Hope this helps on the search.

Sunny predictions for the next weekend, so pictures from the back and interior comming up. And thanks everyone for the credits on the looks of the car .

Oh b.t.w. Fred, Did you see the glasses of the head lamps? how are you on the search for yours.

No power steering, just a big wheel and muscles . I adjusted the cross shaft with the adjusting screw according to the manual. For this I lifted the front. After adjustment it takes about 1 pound to turn the steering wheel. I didn't do the worm bearing adjustment jet. When I turn shake the front wheels a little the steering wheel doesn't move up and down (front lifted). For the suspension, I renewed all that moves, center link, tie-rods etc. So no play there. The tire pressure, I pumped it to max pressure. The tires are Coker WWW.

No Greg, I hate to say this but this one you've got all wrong. It's Mexican Tortilla and Chinese porcelain . All good technical things come from Germany, Mercedes, BMW, Deutsche Grundlichkeit eh Cpt.

Randy, could that be why the floor mats where wet and the windows foggy on the inside also . I had just that experiance, couldn't have it written better. But on my very first drive...these sounds realy happened and took me to the garage for many years. I run radial at 2.3 bar =33 psi, as I 've heard about the wandering ply tires.

Took my car for a test drive to see how she runs. Did the highway for the first time. Set her to 75 mph (120 km/h). Its very fast in a car like this. As I'm not familiar with engine noise in a car like this, and I do not have any comparison on an other car, it sounds to me the engine didn't like it, although I could have speed up to higher speed if I wanted. 65mph was more like it. Still some noise but felt better. What I noticed is that the car tends to wander on the road. The steering gets very light at these speeds. Don't know if this means there is some play in the steering. When the wheels are off the ground it takes about 0.5 pounds to turn it. On the country road it's fun to drive. Share some pictures with you.

Yes Michel, it can get better or faster if you want call. A cheaper 36000 pond car beating a million pond car on a race track with a tammed race driver behind the wheel. The caterham is faster then a 1,000,000+ pond Bugatti Veyron with 1001 HP:eek: and the 246000 pond veritas RS3 with a BMW M3-resies V8 engine powered up from 420 to 473 HP. As I'm not a fan of very fast cars big uncool cars, I love our old ones but just want to show this. It can get faster with less in a road legal car. But what's the point if you can only drive up to the speed limit.... Oh, there is more to go fast then a fast car, this next video shows my family car, I have the 5 seat version of this, trying to beat the fastest time of a jaguar on a race track.