Uncle-Pekka

Interesting detail; The Mopar bodies seem to be complete with glass, bright trim and even door handles, while Hudson bodies are plain sheet metal. Different kind of process on the assembly lines, also different spec for body builders. Thanks for sharing interesting photos.

Merry Christmas to all good people at the Great P15-D24 forum, the best hobby car community in the whole wide web! Unfortunately my Dodge has been 150miles away in all autumn, thus I cannot post appropriate picture for xmas. However, I am going there during the holidays and will post a D24 pic later on. For now you have to settle with a newer Mopar - the cruiser... Merry Christmas to All! /Unkka-Pekka

P.S. In the finnish army there were no any "official" or at least not staff cars built for the purpose during WW2 (the Winter War & the Continuation War). The staff cars were mostly civilian cars which the army claimed. I happen to run across this 1937 Plymouth last summer in a classic car meet in northern Finland. An old chap told a bit of the car's history. It was among other mission also in the use of a famous finnish radio reporter during the war. The reporter was serving as army news reporter on the front. He also survived the war (as apparently did the Plymouth) There was a bullet hole through the passenger side front door upper front corner via dashboard to the firewall. The car was in original condition apart from the gray top coat sprayed on it probably in early fifties. p.p.s. The traffic sign on the roof has no connection to the war or the plymouth... p.p.p.s. The car by the side of plymouth is a moskvitsh, a russian direct copy of german pre war Opel. Russians stole the entire Opel factory and moved it to Russia. They set it up again and produced this copy during the entire fifties. The quality become worse every year as the dies and tools wore out... Compare the size of the two cars and guess why pre-war US cars were appreciated & used in Finland all throught the 50's until early 60's.

There has been a serie of articles on what US car factories produced during WW2 in the "Hemmings Classic Car", also an article covering staff cars. I try to look it up during the holidays. If my memory serves right it was not long ago when they covered the staff cars, probably this year 2009... I've always been interested in military transportation vehicles, some extra charm in plain purpose focused vehicles, topped with military spec accessories.

Good description; just like on a luxurious sofa going 75mph with a whisper.

I made some dash knobs for a '59 furd a couple of weeks back by casting them in disposable mould (regular childrens play-doh). I used industrial resin they use for fiber glass boats. Very cheap method, but I had to try several before I got usable parts. However, the surface patterns copied very true to original. I painted the knobs with enamel. If you enjoy fiddling with small parts and experimenting work methods, I recommend trying resin casting. Does not take big money to start with it, if you use plasticine and boat resin. To do it right, there are molding sets available at hobby shops. They use special silicone rubber to make high precision moulds.

By letting her swallow regular gas though the in-build steel & rubber vains, I guess...? (It's only $6.66 a gallon here in Finland) Oh, by the way: They will issue a revised tax in March 2010 here: It will be based on total weight when it comes to older cars. Well, whatever, the New Yorker is only 3 metric tons or so... (I must be out of my mind, but still I feel good to drive it)

Happy news fellows! I managed to trade my unlucky wreck-cadillac... It took a couple of fords as step-stones, but finally I happily landed on a full size Mopar! I just drove home a 1977 New Yorker 2D Brougham coupe. It's imported to Finland some time ago from Utah and is practically rust free! I am so happy! 440cid + all possible goodies! I need some random parts, probably gear wheels for the driver's power window mechanism, heater motor and the hood ornament as shown in below photo. Pls toss a pm in case you have or know where to get the small parts for this toy. /Pekka (Actually my car is same color as the above pic.)

How much he is asking (roughly) for the whole lot? Would there be anybody of us at the forum who could provide a shelter for the parts if we would form a co-operation to fund and buy him out? Just a wild idea: - however, I could consider to invest a sum myself to be a part of such co-operation. The idea would be, that members could buy the parts at "net price", but parts could be sold to public at regular market price as well. The "store keeper" would be paid fair rent for his garage where the parts would be stored. In the end of the day the possibly gathered profit could be donated to forum.

Donald, The number is 248-605-1440, owner is called John.

Well, I got cheated really bad an year back by a forwarder who "took care of" shipping a car from Michigan to Finland for me. Ended up paying ca. 4500 bucks his dues on top of $2500 freight cost... Also the car turned out a real rust bucket which I had to get rid of (to save my marriage)... Thus I'm a bit shy for a while now. By the way: The DeSoto auction was closed at $900, reserve not met. I suppose reserve must be very near to BIN price $1500. Will be relisted soon, I suppose... Would be really nice if Donald Smith could check the car for us. I could re-consider taking it over the pond...

Folks, Just happened to spot this one: http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290360114902&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_1837wt_960 Now at $778 and 23 hours to go. Has even "buy it now", only $1500. I'd consider this a steel, being a complete unrestored car. Interior looks good on the pictures, body seems not too bad either... Somebody close to Detroit go grab it!

fred, I bough a set from Roberts; no metal back or special molded bottom part. Just ft measure stock. Have to try to mend the original molded corners. If I would do it now I would probably try Steele. Lol. Pekka

I took the doors off for soak in a acid tub and easier welding of the bottoms last summer. I do not know the number what they weight, but the front doors are sure heavy. It is a serious job to install the front door, even if you have a buddy helping to lift & hold. Looking at the structure one would not belive the weight: There are nothing much in it, window mech is simple & relatively light. I suppose it's simply the thickness of the sheet metal, that adds the mass... By the way; Norm's question #2 is a trick: It's commonly know, that chicken came first, but later on it turned out that she faked it...

I will pass the run this time, too far away Do not forget your camera, Gregg - and share the cruise with us at the forum. Cheers, Pekka

Is the P15 218 exhaust manifold the same as in D24 230? I would like to buy yours in case it fits my 230... Cheers, Pekka

Congratulations Fireball! Choice of the colour is a jackpot and looks are stunning! Interesting that you painted the car area by area. I considered the same when I someday get that far. Painting the entire car at "one shot" probably goes far beyond my skills... I've been doing the primer jobs for years and also have painted smaller "objects", such as bike tanks, fenders etc. , but never a car this big... Looking fwd to see more photos of your coop' soon. /Pekka P.s. Are you going to do even the pinstriping by yourself?

...what-you-call, the oval plates on the firewall in engine bay. Aluminium, have once been red color etched. The ones in my car are badly oxidized, hardly any of original surface left. I have not seen these reproduced, are they? A wild idea I got: Newsprint houses do the print offset plates on aluminium sheets. The process is quite fast & easy. They take "a photocopy" of the page, place the negative on the al.plate, which has photosensitive coating. Its been exposed to strong UV for 10-20 sec., then run throught an acid bath. The exposed areas come off, rest carry color. Could be a possible method to reproduce the badges for our cars? Does anyone have really well preserved ones on their cars to post a HQ photo? /Pekka

Congratulations Captain! I agree with you 101% - If the interior in my car would be as good condition original as your '40 I would not do anything either, exept bless my luck every day having got awesome car... Pekka

Don, Thanks for the tip. Gregg, Nice original preserved dash, indeed. I would myself prefer an original aged woodgrain to restored, but as said, in my car there is no choice anymore after the parts were painted by some amateur sometimes back in 70's-80's.... The pattern in Plymouth seems to be different from Dodge, though.

I agree Don, This is a prime example. However, in order to use a photo as model a when replicating the pattern, one needs to have a close up photo. E.g. the glove box door lower part would be a good spot... -Pekka

Thank you Mr. St.Peter, The above posting is the best and most professional woodgraining instruction I've come across anywhere. This should be fixed as a "sticky" on the board, so that it would be easier to find. I would like to ask a further favour: should you have pictures of the working phases, e.g. wiping the natural walnut stain with a cloth disk on a drill - Would be useful & interesting. Thanks & regards, Pekka

Hello Folks! Please post a detail photo of D24 original (mahagonny?) woodgrain. I need a good pattern to replicate for my dash & window frames. The ones in my car has been painted over a long time ago by some previous owner. I only was able to retain an area of the size of a stamp in the corner of the dashboard. Thanks, Pekka

My 230 leaks oil from the rear main bearing seal. I pulled the pan and rear main seal housing and found that the seal (sort of split lip seal package) is shrunked and petrified due to age. Now, this seal seems to be available at Bernbaum, Rockauto & some other suppliers. Are they different by supplier or are all the same? Are re-manufactored seal different from original Mopar design? For better or worse? Please share your exprience...

Hello Charlie, I need the rear main seals for the 230 L-head. The engine leaks oil from the rear main bearing seal. I pulled the pan and rear main seal housing a week ago and found that the seal (sort of split lip seal package) is shrunked and petrified due to age... Would you have those seals in your treasure? Thanks, Unkka-Pekka