Uncle-Pekka

Hi Gregg, Thanks for your reply and apologies for the delay in my response; The lady driver is Miss Hasselberg by the original caption. I do not know anything, but obviously she was the daughter of the swedish business man, who commissioned the build of the race car. Unfortunately I do not know much of the race either; supposing it was an early road race at the time when there were no speed limits, nor much traffic in Finland. There were two classes for participants; "Amateur class" (where ms. H. drove) and "Master class" where were also locally famous drivers. Mr. Ebb, who later on won several Scandinavian GP races too part with a Mercedes SSK. The roads were dirt roads for the most part, but also black top and brick paved in the towns. I suppose it was interesting race to drive... I also posted this photo here in Finland and some of the viewers expressed doubts that the car would not be Plymouth PB nor any other US make... The car is strikingly low and the body looks like channeled over the frame. However there was information that the car really was build using mostly Plymouth parts and a bit older Chrysler six engine. It was registered as 1932 Plymouth and raced in Finland and Sweden in the early 30's. It looks very professionally built for racing purpose. Lower that the car in George Ashe's garage. Apart the body itself, there are also other neat details, such as full wheel cover plates over the wooden spoke rims.

Long time, no see... I've been driving my D24, but not much working on it lately, thus been silent here for a couple of years. Just recently I came across the below old photo, taken in July 1932 in Helsinki, Finland; It shows a racer, built based on 1932 Plymouth PB in Finland or Sweden in early 1932. The lady standing beside of the car took part in Helsinki-Hanko road race "novice-class" in the very day the photo was taken. Later, in 1933 the car was sold to Sweden. I assume it was yet used in several competitions in Sweden and Finland in early 30's. Have anyone seen Plymouth or Dodge bodied like this one?

A fellow has a beautiful 1938 DeSoto S5 business coupe, but is lacking some interior & trim parts. For the most, he'd need to find the glove box door and the lock - see attached ref.pic. Anyone who could help him out, please? Thanks, Uncle-Pekka

Good luck saving the big block six, Paul. Me & my Granpa did the same some 40+yrs back - He was collecting scrap iron for charity using his big rig. One day he called me & my dad saying he picked a ford model a four banger with a big lot of scrap. We gathered same amount of scrap and "traded in" for the ford engine.

I wish I would knew this ^ when the DNV inspector complained about the play... As said, I noticed the old bushing appeared to be as good as the new one only when I could compare them side by side on my desk. Further, when having the parts apart, I also begun to think there is no way that structure could wear loose considering the low miles we've put on the clock. Thank you James for the written "manufacturer's testimonial".

Thanks Andy, - That is a good idea - I certainly will take the parts with me to inspection, just for sure. Jack, Yes, I was talking/doing the outer bushing. #3062 in the pic. is /are the inner link bushings. Cheers, Pekka

Thank you Andy for the practical tip. Funny, but I only read this after having done one side already during the day. However, I ended up doing exactly the way you recommended. When I looked at the new parts, I figured the position of the eccetric bushing must be set the same as has worked for me for the past years, thus I made a mark by punch nail before taking the bushing apart. When I had the new & old cleaned, side by side on the board, I made the mark on the same/corresponding position on the new bushing, etc. In the end of the day, unfortunately, I came to doubt, was my effort any good... See, I did not find any play or wear in the old bushing! The "DNV" inspector told me he found play in the upper control arm bushing and wrote a recommendation to replace them. After taking the parts apart, cleaning and measuring - more so by re-assembling and seeing the structure all through - I cannot understand how this bushing could wear enough to produce any significant play on the suspension movements...

Thanks for the answer - and the safety points. Further; Is there any way to (even roughly) adjust the camber angle without special tools? -after having replaced the eccentric bushing. Any practical tips for home garage to adjust the front wheel angles?

...can it be done without removing the upper control arm (and the entire steering knuckle support assembly!)? What about the spring? - Does it need any further support/compression but the car resting on lower control arm (on a jack)? What I am asking; Is it a)possible, b)safe, just to remove the upper arm outer pin, tilting the steering knuckle support outwards and pull the bushing off, install new bushing and dust seals and finally the pin again? - all of it done while the car is supported on a jack under the lower control arm spring seat. (the below pic. is not dodge, but close enough... ignore the part numbers)

I've seen doors converted to "suicide" in some "kustom builts", but to convert only one side must be some practical reason? Not just for looks? ...just out of curiosity.

Is this a std. feature or a custom made?

Here's my testimony. Driving alone along the coastal route "the Seven Bridges Road" from my home town Kokkola towards Jakobstad. August 2018.

^ It appears to be an implement for single person transportation, made in Japan.

Old downdraft carburetors commonly leak at the butterfly valve shaft. As the Carter BB has brass shaft on steel throttle body, the shaft wears thin. It does not help to rebuild the sealings & jets if the throttle valve shaft leaks. Where can I get new shaft to replace a worn one? What is included in Bernbaum P-102 kit? - Only gaskets & jets? Any more?