mrwrstory

Just this morning, w/my first cup of coffee, I was reading the latest R&C. Flashed on the U S Radiator ad which I've seen it many times but never explored. Turns out they are the source my P-15's replacement. I probably would not have discovered this solution w/o visiting a quality repair shop. http://www.usradiator.com/chevrolet-truck-1948-54-v8-aluminum-radiator.html Yes, it has a trans cooler and it cost less than $400.00 w/Calif tx.

Got the most challenging part of the exahust roughed in. Waiting for mufflers from Summit to finish the first issue of the exhaust system. I plan to build headers one day. Upon visiting the local radiator shop where I was expecting to order a radiator custom built to match the original unit. I came away with an aluminum alternative. It's an off-the-shelf piece for a 49-54 Chevy pickup with a 350. It's "Made in the USA", is repairable and will easily cool 400 HP and,... I like the natural aluminum look. The cost was about the same as copper/brass. Some modest modifications to the core support are required. - The radiator needs to be dropped down in the core support about 3/4". I should have it pretty well wrapped up and installed tomorrow and I will post pics of the finished assembly.

Wow!!!!!!!!!! THANKS! That's just what I needed. I'm thinking since I don't have hardware on the front of the radiator, that I can drop it in place. And, if it doesn't clear, I have very little nibbling to do. Nothing like a picture. Thanks so much.

Don Coatney,...or anyone else who would like to chime in,....I'm trying to visualize the relationship of the radiator/core support to the fender flange at the hood interface,...where that all comes together,..... w/o going up in the rafters to retrieve the fenders and mounting them. I have circled the area on Don's pic,....(Don, would you kindly take another pic focusing on that area in a plan view ) Don, I understand that your core support is "reversed",....but still in the same location front to back. And, I see that you "nibbled" some at the notch in the fender flange. It looks as if that's to clear the core support brace/fan mount. If you did not have that brace/fan mount in place, and the stock radiator mounted in the forward location, would you still need to "nibble" the fender flange? This is a friend's P-15 with an aftermarket Aluminum radiator that is 1" narrower than the stocker. THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY/ALL INPUT

It's for a GM, internal fan, 160 amp and 'tho not small, is smaller dia. than the Mopars,...therefore the need to fab a bracket. Single wire or two, your choice. Exceptional customer service too. http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=122

I've had several inquiries about the IFS modification on my P-15 I will post a seperate thread on the process if a few of you are interested and give me a "yea" here or via PM

I don't remember exactly how I got all the bolts except that I did it without any help. Three car garage helps but I find that however much space you have, ya can still fill it up in no time at all. Yes!!!! pictures please!!!!

Marc, came across this diagram looking for body bolt locations. Doesn't answer your question but I thought you might like the image anyway. Body bolts are not hard to find. Just dig through the rust and crud on the floor directly above the frame rails. It's kinda like a scavanger hunt On my P-15 there were two bolts inboard of the frame just aft of the opening for the removalbe part of the floor/trans cover. I did not remove my doors or trunk. The body was so rigid that they operated normally even when the body was off the frame. I just used a floor jack and several jack-stands,.....and took my time. Don't remember where I got new body mounts but they're out there.

It's really starting to look like something now. Fuel supply is plumbed. Radiator and exhaust system is next.

Good observation, I never thought about that. I sure like the look, which is my thing, but I also like driving with the windows open. Anyone know if the cowl vent has any affect on this issue?

Tell me us more about the vent window delete. Are we looking at window channel installed in the forward part of the door in the 2nd pic? Does the 4th pic show components of a kit or is that your assembly of parts neatly packaged? I wanna do that!

im thinking you may consider a high volume carter mechanical fuel pump running 3 carbs - I do have a Mallory HO pump that I bought years ago when I was putting the package together.

Just wondering if the Chevy small block would have been any easier? Seems like things interchange with GM better. - I bought all the Mopar stuff in 2002 & 2003 when I was a little less smart....and had more money. I say less smart partly because I was planning a quick turn around. Ha! I learned, "no such thing for me!" I also (and still have) had a Red Ram Hemi almost ready to go but I thought the small block Mopar would be more expedient and still be Mopar. Kinda like the popular Ford in a Ford promo,...geez what was I thinkin? Puttin a Ford in a Ford, a Mopar in a Mopar and maybe even a Chevy in a Chevy is frought with challenges of cost and installation equal to putting a vintage engine in an old car. In hindsight (which is now approaching 20/20) that's probably what I shoulda done in the first place. So, these days, while watching my limited resources, I'm trying to stay more focused on using what I have. Although,......I have a pretty nice little 283 sittin in the corner. Should I be lookin for a Chevy to put it in?????.....nah!

Rock, I don't have enough experience to answer your question. I'd just go to the wrecking yard and start looking under hoods. Be forewarned, 318's and 360 small blocks have diff. pulley diameters, off-sets and bolt patterns,....just enough to screw you up if you're not careful. I found that out the hard way. Don't know where 340's fall but it would be prudent to get everything off the donor car/engine. Good Luck!

Hi All, I have not been loafing but, it seems the harder I work lately, behinder I get. I'm reminded that Detroit put a lot of thought into every nut, bolt and bracket the goes into a car. And, if you approach the modification of any assembly too casually, ya may end up with a something less than what you visualized. I've made way too many trips to the wrecking yard since I last reported in. I will spare you the details but it goes something like, "don't assume interchangability just because it's a small block Mopar." Here's the latest. "Twas a bitch getting everything square, parallel and plumb. And it was like the proverbial 10 lbs of ^*#* in a 5 lb bag. with the oil dip stick, fuel line, regulator, and alternator wanting to be in the same place. - with the core support reversed, there is a generous 2" for the fan. Note also the second color of the exhaust manifold.

I don't see many comments on your thread. I think you deserve a hearty "atta boy". You've taken on a daunting project and, with quality time with your son, you're turning a rust bucket into something pretty special. Good job!

Thanks Guys Next coupla days I'll be up in the rafters retrieving the radiator, core support and inner fender panels and mocking up the assembly. In the meantime I'm designing/fabricating an alternator bracket. Pics of that in a few days.

Please forgive my dim "wittedness" but I'm still not getting the idea of where the radiator is mounted. I see the mods to the cross member and the core support. It appears that the core support is mounted in the stock location and you've done some creative "nibbling" to clear the crank pulley. Understanding that the stock fan may contact the radiator (because of it's diameter), does the fan pulley clear the radiator in its' stock location,......or is the radiator moved forward? Without the electric fan, would it have been necessary to modify the sheet metal ahead of the radiator? With all that said, I think it's really cool that we are exploring problems and solutions via this website. In some respects such an interface is a bit abstract but I, for one, enjoy the challenge of the verbal exchange in order to solve a problem,....not to mention my personal challenge of doing it via a keyboard and monitor.

Thanks for the pics guys. Don, I'm remembering something about mounting the radiator on the forward side of the core support for the longer engine. Is that what you did? Is it just a matter of a different mounting hole choice while the core support remains in the stock P-15 location? Does that forward location of the radiator have any affect on the rest of the front sheet metal?

I'm also anticipating mounting the core support and radiator for start-up. I'd always figgered the the V8 to be shorter than the flat head,....but not so sure now,....looking at the fan and crank pulleys relative to the front cross member. Would someone kindly shoot a pic of the radiator, core support, splash (inner fender) panel interface(s) of their stock setup. Something with the fenders and grill off would be best, if available. I don't have a P-15 factory manual but, would imagine there would be an exploded view, of this area, there too. Any input would be greatly appreciated,....thanks:)

Was forgiven for the use of the barbie but, I gotta do it again . May have been the smoke that turned the cast iron color to golden brown. Good for steaks but not so good for a blue and gray engine compartment. I have recoated them my second choice, black. I hope that the second bake will go better.

Decided since my wife is away for the day to fix me a coupla steaks. It's her grill and she doesn't allow much in the way of red meat. Just hope she doesn't smell them when she returns.

Ya know how ya often get the belated Christmas or B'day cards????? Here's mine. Remembered this event and dug through a box of snaps from 1994 and scaned this one.

Good Luck!