Tony WestOZ

Well hello to all, it`s a long time since I have been to this site. New Guy, I got your message. Wagoneer sames to have covered all as regards the make and model. With the doors I think the only way is to buy another van or hope someone will sell a couple off a really bad wreck. For a Shop manual go to. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/garage/garage.htm The is a manual for your model down the page. I think I have a parts manual on pdf somewhere on an old hard drive. If I find it I will let you know and I can email it to you. The pics show Ambulances sent to somewhere in Asia in 1957? I have never seen one in this form. The ones I have seen had modified rear cab sections. regards Tony

As others have said the head will have to be CC `ed. It`s the only way to know exactly what you have got. I have never found any direct relationship between head thickness and compression ratio. Tony

I use to hand crank the Dodge my father gave me when I was a seventeen year old student all the time. Had no money to replace the regulator so it was crank or no drive for a couple of weeks. I went through it again a couple of years latter when the reg went and I could not find a replacement. Then was the starter motor failure and I was 400 miles from home. Its not that hard. Use one hand and remember to keep you thumb out of the way. Tony One note of caution, I would not do it on an engine that was just had the timing reset. If its timed wrong and backfires it could hurt.

Ok, short bit of info. 108C-D 184, 108 = wheel base, 108". C = model, 1955 to 57. D = Dodge 184 = the one hundred and eighty fourth 108" wheel base truck off the line for that C model. There was no denoting body style in this number. 108 -CD -Q22 ( I `ll assume this is the body tag. Long thin, similar size to the paint code tag). 108 CD = refer above. Q22 = Q is a strange one. Normally there is a four digit number to give body style. SPAR - 157 - 9327 Spartan paint code. Most of the time BALM (British Australian Lead Manufacture) paints were used but Spartan and another brand where used. Its been to long and the memory is going I will have to have a look through the books to provide some more accurate info. Tony

This is a page from my Canadian model book. You can find a copy of the book here, http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/know.htm Tony

Jez, I could hang ever tool I own on the wall and not even come close to that. I envy you. Tony

Gotta love a wall full of tools. Wish mine looked that good. That looks like a copy of my SP set I have had for years. Found this the other day. I bought it long after my last flathead rebuild so I have never actually used it. Forgot I had it. Tony

Generally speaking if a PCV is being used then there in no filter on the oil input tube. The filter is replaced with a cap. Power Wagons are on example. The air being draw out through the PCV is purely that has by-passed the rings, valve guides etc. It keeps the sump in a state of vacuum. Tony

Have to agree with you Merle. Anything is better than nothing. From trails I was involved with in the 90`s the cleaner you can keep the oil the better off you are. You can increase service times and decrease engine wear. Moak, are you after a complete unit or just the filter to suit? Tony

1 being the output and 2 being input (missing line) there was something in there. I have never seen an oil cooler on trucks, may be there was an other filter. Is 3 the return from the oil filter in the pic? What port does the input come from? You could plug 1 & 2 but you have to remove the by-pass plug between the two. The sump has to be removed for this. Or take a line from 1 and turn it back into 2. Or fit new lines and a filter. Can you take a pic showing the whole engine? That filter looks to be in a strange position. Tony

Looks to be an interesting engine. I have never seen carb inlet or a water outlet like those. T214 is for 1942-45 but SR has me intrigued. Wander if its for something else Dodge supplied engine to. I understand how NOS engines can be a bit confusing. Mine had no engine number.

Your block appears to be a 1400229 so its full flow. For a full flow setup oil comes out of port 1 (yellow) goes through the filter and then returns to port 2 (red). Oil for the pressure gauge can be taken off ports 4,5 or 6. Note the plug between 1 and 2 (BLACK) must be in position to force the oil through the full flow filter. You can fit a partial flow or return filter but things change. The plug between 1 & 2 is removed. No1 port is blocked. Oil to the filter is usually taken from port 2 but can be taken from 4,5 or 6. Oil from the filter is returned to port 3 (blue). Oil to the gauge can be taken from whatever red port is not used. Tony

You mean I have been fooled all these years.

I don`t do facebook so have never posted there but you could try, Fargo,Dodge & Desoto Trucks of Australia. Someone may be able to help. I tried to post a link but I failed. Tony