JBNeal

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When I've pulled these steering wheels, I put a sacrificial bolt in the shaft bore, steering wheel nut on the threads finger tight, and the puller setup like ya used...keeps the shaft threads intact and keeps the puller square-threaded screw from "inserting"...yeah, my first wheel I pulled ran into this scenario. So I put the steering wheel and nut back on and modified the puller so that the bearing splitter was indirectly resting on top of that steering wheel nut instead of the back of the steering wheel...I cut some scrap angle steel to approximate square tube that would go between the nut and splitter, using vise-grips to hold them together. Made a U-shaped plate from scrap 1/4" steel to spread the load from the angle steel to the splitter, straddling that square threaded screw. Then I carefully backed the square threaded screw out of the H-bar, and it eventually popped out. I was puckering up purty good the whole way, but got r dun without incident...lesson learned

VINTAGEPIC: another poser with the C-1 on the FB

VINTAGEPIC: saw this C-1 doing a photo shoot on the FB

I recommend using the port behind the oil filler tube as there should be enough room for that pressure sensor. One of my flatheads in storage has a brass elbow in the port behind the starter, and there's not much room back there...my guess is that elbow was for an aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge that fed pressurized oil through a nylon tube to an underdash gauge.

Indeed, these "big" trucks are kinda small compared to today's full-size pickups, the operators have gotten bigger as well. The big 1948 Pilot-House brochure has this comparison of small 130-lb and large 220-lb driver, showcasing the new larger cab. Judging from the locations of these two drivers' eyes, shoulders, and knees, the big guy is about 6 ft tall-ish, small guy maybe 5'6"...Andy Taylor and Barney Fife sizes. This reminds me of the time some big ol' boy moseyed up to the house wanting to sit in one of the Pilot-House cabs on the side yard. He wanted to get an old truck to fix up, but made the smart and probably experienced decision to see how he fit in this "great old truck" as he kept rambling on about. So I opened the door to the one that I had driven last, he climbed in, and the look on his face said it all as the steering wheel scraped his belt buckle...he decided that these old great trucks were nice to look at, but not quite his size

I had pulled the gauge cluster from the '48 1-ton awhile back so I pulled it off the shelf to clarify my fuzzy memories. The gauges are separated from the housing by cardboard about as thick as the gauge plate. The snap-in lights are not insulated from the housing. The amp gauge has cardboard cup-shaped insulators under both round head screw heads; there is not any insulation on the screw threads to prohibit contact with the gauge plate. The gauge plate mounting holes are concentric with the housing tapped holes, and the housing gasket and amp gauge cup-shaped insulators are tight to the mounting screws.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this COE hauler getting eyeballed on the FB

VINTAGEPIC: saw this tanker on the tarmac on the FB

back when men were men and guardrails had body counts

VINTAGEPIC: saw this tanker on the tarmac on the FB

Horn installation tip: It may be easier to connect the wiring to the horn terminals before bolting the horn to the firewall bracket. On the B-1 and B-2, that hood support brace is right where ya want to stick your head during installation, which makes putting a backing wrench on them terminals a real stretch. Also, might be easier to slip the horn back onto that firewall bracket if the outer hexnuts aren't fully torqued down as shown:

rcvd this email today

Starter contact switch should be able to be removed without pulling starter...remove batt.cable and wiring, should be two slotted round head screws attaching switch body to starter body...if contacts are dirty, shine'm up a tad; if worn badly, replace; if arcing present, contacts need to be adjusted, as they are not fully mated when switch bottoms out.

Put a torque wrench on the crank nut; if it takes more than 80 ft-lbs to rotate, ya might be having an engine problem 👀

VINTAGEPIC: saw this tanker with the interesting turn signals on the FB

my research was focused on parts in my possession and listings in the factory parts manual...this originally started by noticing a change in the radiator cap sizes between a '49 and '51 1-ton trucks and kinda snowballed...if it's not detailed in the factory parts manual, then I'd just be guessing as to what those tail-end letters represent.

additional information - radiator identification for non-pressurized systems

👉 Marvel Mystery Oil 👈

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this Pilot-House headed up the street over on the FB

With MMO, you can skip the non-ethanol gasoline...I did a price comparison of non-ethanol vs 87octane +MMO, and it's a dead heat, but ya get the fuel stabilizer benefit of MMO. Chrysler flatheads have hardened valve seats, so they run fine on modern gasoline...skip the lead additive and invest in MMO instead 🏆