FMSPEED49

Used the dry powder, and mixed it with fuel, would have gone water but i have NO carbon build up on this at all. The tablespoon was just seat of the pants, figured 20oz of fuel and 1 tblspoon should be a mellow mix. Off for the test drive.

Ive used it for chrome rings on motorcycles, but have always heard the rumors too, so I figured I would be the guinnie pig. BTW, the "tire shaving" white walls are true also. You can find it at your local grocery for 89 cents.

Put the plugs back in, reassymbled the linkage, and started her up, ran her around the block 3 times to get her to operating temp. 180 degrees 20 coca cola bottle, cleaned w/ carb cleaner 1 tablespoon of powder the rest 89 octain unleaded. Shaken, not stirred ( i had to say that) ran the car at aprox 2000 - 2500 rpm fan to the radiator poked small hole in side of bottle dribbled solution into carb over a 10 - 15 minute period Adverse affects = NONE Smoke = NONE had to adjust idle up aprox 1/2 turn (compression rising???) Sounds better (isn't that scientific) Let it Idle for a minute Shut her down, gonna let her cool, then test drive for the scientific seat of your pants test. I will repull compression after she has cooled back down to the same temp as the first test. Stay tuned.......

BTW, I don't need the negative feedback or opinions, my motor, not yours, my dime not yours. If you wanna cheer me on, thanks. If you wanna laugh, after I am picking pieces up off the floor, I'll join you.

My motor is rebuilt, just sat for a long time. Please folow along in snake oil thread if you want to.

Theroy : The powder will "hone" the glazzed cylinder walls and seat the rings For scientific purposes, I just pulled compression Carb wide open air cleaner removed 15amp batt charger hooked to keep her steady coil grounded motor cold, aprox 70 degrees in shop ment to check the humidity, but forgot cyl 1 70lbs cyl 2 70lbs cyl 3 73lbs cyl 4 71lbs cyl 5 70lbs cyl 6 74lbs Stay tunned

The other thread was way too long....... so I startred a specific one Here's the details..... 1949 D29 L6 230ci Stock carb .40 over pistons, clean as a whistle. 2" exhaust w/ 18" glasspack Sat in a field for more than 10+ years Valves set to spec with go-no-go Crancase vent checked - clean and free Aprox 1000 miles since revived. 1 real good overheat after freeze plug blow out ( aprrox 240 degrees) New head gasket Fresh rotella oil and wix filter. Problem: uses 1 qt of oil per 100 miles, blows smoke at hard acceleration. Solution: ol' timer trick, Bon AMI houshold polishing cleanser down the carb.

6 teaspoons, over 15 minute intervals. The motor is clean inside, but it sat for anywhere from 10 - 20 years, there is no cylinder wear at the top of the cylinders, these things we know. Therefore, i believe it to be glazed walls. and if i am wrong, well, i am pulling the entire motor and doing a rebuild, so i have nothing to lose. I did this years ago on chrome rings. worked like a charm. Will it work this time? hell if I know. I'll get back to ya.

Just for fun, I will pull a compression reading before and after I do this.

So I noticed the 49 is smoking some tonight on take offs, pulled the plugs (400 miles on em), and they are oiled pretty good. The car sat for well over 15 years, and I just now have about 1000 miles on it. I figure she's glazing. So this weekend, I'll hit her with some BON AMI . I'll let you know the results. 230L6 vs. cheap cleanser. STAY TUNED!!!!!!!!

I also have american collectors, pay 120 somthing, for 16k worth coverage do a google search, they have an online quote deal that works instintaniously.

Cleans deposits off valves.

Make that "combustable"

Also, you must change your oil after running the car around the block 2 or 3 times after you do this, and then 50 miles after ,if it is the first time you have done this. The only other thing I can say, If you have never seen this done, or have never done it,and don't have someone near who has, I WOULD NOT DO IT. IF YOU DO IT WRONG, you WILL be pulling pieces of piston out of your oil pan!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Spray water gently (less always better than more) at over 1000 rpm,motor at operating temp, just do not do this on a car with a cataletic convertor, unless you want to buy a new converter. Be very carefull, you can and will blow your motor to pieces, water does not compress. ATF is a safer solution, same results (atf is compressable, and combustible), yet will blow white smoke out the tail pipe so heavily that the local fire department will be called.

The mopar has no title, this to most severly affects the value.

Worked well for seating new chrome rings, btw , i have done it. I also dump atf in my carb, and have been known to pour water in there too.

I wonder if somthing similar could be done to the front brakes, yes, i am aware of the disk set up. no I don't have the disk set up. But I do know a few people with a lot of parts from mustangs and such.

You could go this route

That's Purty!

My old 230 runs dandy, uses about 1/4 a quart of oil every 500 miles. all and all not bad just figured I might start collecting some parts for a future swap.

welcome.

So if my reasearch is right, all the parts are the van parts? they apear to have the rear sump pans and the center dump exaust on the drivers side. So the easiest route and prob the cheapest would be to find an old dodge or ply van and scavage it?

My understanding was most of the problems with a swap were, the tie rod being behind the wheels and the steering colom so far towards the center.

I've read up on the 318 swaps (and the steering rod issues), the sub frame swaps (she's half camero) , and the hot rod a flat head 6 posts (bring out the gold card), but I wonder has anyone ever looked into swapping, oh I dunno , a slant 6, or somthing else in? Just wonder if that would be a cheap or easy option, just thinking out loud.