Jim Shepard

I need to deal with a leaking wheel cylinder on my B2B. Are kits still available? What's the recommendation out there for suppliers for either kits or new cylinders?

It's in a antique store near me. I think I'll pass on it. Thanks for all the info.

Here's the back side. Only three wires and no selector for cylinder numbers.

Why in the world would anyone sell this truck?

Found this "vintage" tach in an antique store. Supposedly, it works. Never heard of the brand (Blue Chip) and can't find any info on the internet. Don't even know if it's automotive. Looks like it might be from a boat. It does look old school and at least it doesn't rev to 8-9,000. It's got three wires (white, green, black). Anyone know how I'd hook it up to test?

What's that! A Furd in the background? Must be the neighbor's, right? Say it's the neighbor's...

I talked with Jim today in Plymouth at the big west coast national truck historical (or whatever it's called) show. He had the Dodge entered. It's also the one with the air conditioning. Anyway, Jim says the guy who did the door graphics is a local Grass Valley guy named Jim Moser (530) 273-7615.

As always, the BBQ was THE event of the year. One of the few things I look forward to every year, the thing all other things get planned around. Tim and Steph are truly wonderful people and I'm glad to call them friends. Here's another photo...

Coming' over Sunday to help out...

As I mentioned, my truck is now 12V. I like DD's tach. Anyone know anything about it?

I've always wanted to put a tach in my truck and now that it's 12V the possibilities are endless. However... I want something old school-looking that doesn't wind out to 8-9,000. Anyone know where I can get one that tops out at a more reasonable number - like 3-4,000 rpm? BTW - what is the maximum rpm's on these trucks?

So, is DollyDodge gonna make the BBQ this year?

Don - Is that what would have come in an S10 pickup?

Valve adjustment? We don't need no stinking valve adjustment...

Don't really know much about it. My machine shop got it. They said it was a "mild RV cam." They sourced it locally, here in Sacramento.

I guess after so many years and so many add-on's and after-market stuff, it's hard to keep it straight. I have seen the one in your photo, but didn't know what it was from. I knew I'd seen the metal tube type on the larger trucks...

I believe that's what I said...

Tim, brother, I feel for you. We've had our share of "surprises"as a result of all this weather. At least you weren't doing all this in the rain. On the same sunny day you were out doing your thing I was up on the roof doing some repairs of my own...

As far as I can determine, these are the correct mirror arms for B1 through B4 series one-half ton trucks. The first photo shows the correct arms for the B1 and B2 series, driver and passenger side. The second photo shows the arm for B3 and B4 trucks. The mirror heads were generally round, but could be easily replaced with square or rectangular. I think, but I'm not sure (I haven't looked at Bunn's book in awhile), that the bracket or arm in the second photo generally came on C and D models in all years in the B series line.

I could be wrong, but I think the mirrors very-well could be original. Check out Bunn's book...

Don't have any photos of the whole length of the run. It's pretty simple, though. The pipes run parallel on the passenger side and make a 90 degree bend in front of the rear fender. As you can see in the photo, the pipes go under the cab "stacked" one on top of the other. As soon as space allows, they are routed parallel for the rest of the run. Trying to keep the pipes as close to the same length as possible, the outside pipe, which is connected to the front header, makes the bend first. I really would have preferred to run the pipes down on either side of the truck and out the back under the tailgate. The problem I couldn't solve was the gas tank. My primary concern was keeping the pipes as close to the same length as I could. I could have run them both down the passenger side and out that side under the tailgate; however, I didn't like the "Bimmer"/Euro look of that setup...

Yup - dual Smitty's both running on the passenger side and exiting in front of the rear wheel.

Jeff, I like the setup just fine. I'm running a 230 punched out 60 over with a mild cam. The factory 2-barrel appealed to me for its simplicity. I didn't want to mess with synchronizing multiple carbs. Because the linkage is different on the cars (it comes across the head from the driver's side), I had to spin the Stromberg 180 degrees to get the throttle arm on the ride side of the motor. Then the choke housing wouldn't clear the top of the head so I had to have a block CNC'd to raise it up about 2 inches. Then it was just a matter of figuring out the linkage. Here's what it looks like... As for noticeable difference, my top speed hasn't changed all that much, but I get there a lot quicker. Also, my gas gauge needle moves a lot quicker...

Me too... also running factory two barrel Stromberg WW and manifold from '56 Dodge auto. Not using water heat plate set-up.