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David Strieb

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Everything posted by David Strieb

  1. Welcome to the forum. One of my mopars is a '40 sedan, also several other '40 plys on this site. My Hollander Interchange says rear fenders from any '40 ply will match, '41 ply will bolt on, but the "speed lines" are different.
  2. Thanks for the info!! What year electronic distributer did you use, or does it matter??
  3. looked in my '40 ply factory parts list book, group 23 page 24 shows #881397 for conv. coupe (woody not listed), and #849376 for everything else. These #'s are for LHD, RHD dashs have different #'s....maybe take them both out and compare, differences may be slight.
  4. I'd also check if you have yom or collector liscense plates/registration
  5. This is what they started with. T body is fiberglass made in late 60's. I joined in when the chassis was just a few pieces tacked together. Been lots of fun and a great learning tool for me. I drive 60 miles round trip to his shop for 5 to 6 hrs of work. Can't wait to see it run. Up early today to get to the Monroe swap meet here in Wa.
  6. It's built for a 302 GMC/12 port head/powerglide/9"ford. Any small block chev will bolt right in, and they're also looking at running a ford flathead V8 and a HEMI in the future. I'm voluntering my time to the project, great learning experience. Hope to run in the 9's with the 302, when built should have somewhere around +/- 350 hp. Being built to look like a 70's car only with modern engineering and safty, should safty tech around 7 secs. Pictured is Kay Sissels 302 powered alterted, the inspiration for this project. The Willys is another project that will be hitting the strip. These guys know what they're doing!!!!
  7. We took it off the jig wed night with a cherry picker. This car is LIGHT, bare chassis is less than 100#. Funny how everyone shows up when it's picture time!!!
  8. seems like a legitimate question to me. Sharing information is what this forum is about isn't it?....or is it about who asks the question as to what kind of answer they recieve? There's a great tool for posting replies, it's as simple as don't reply.
  9. some of these cars are on ebay right now. last I looked the packard woody was fifty grand. From the pics I saw, they were parked 3 or 4 deep.
  10. Auctions have no bearing on what it's worth, the bidders determine what it sells for once the sellers reserve is met. All it takes is people bidding against each other to drive the price higher. I've sold parts in an auction format for 5 times what you can buy it for at NAPA, I'm sure not gonna tell them to stop bidding. How many times have you seen a plain jane sedan for sell at a cruise in for some insane price, with the seller stating that one "just like it" sold at barret jackson for the same price. IMO, something is only worth what a buyer will pay for it.
  11. Glad it worked for you. Sometimes an additional vacum tank can be a great help, also.
  12. I run all season radials, drive my cars year around. I would never go back to bias ply. I like the ride and response of radials, and if I'm on the road I can get a replacement just about anywhere.
  13. For my '36, don't know if you can read the #'s or not, but maybe these pics help. They're too deep in storage to get to. The plate that mounts the shifter does extend forward. I may have some other pics, will have to search my files.
  14. link from the hamb/OT old school altered build 302 GMC 12 port http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=472505
  15. welcome shawn. One of mine is a '40 ply sedan, fatman/350/700r4/10bolt. Several other '40s on the site also. Mopar sheetmetal is hard to find. Several months ago I bought extra front grill tin for my '40 at a local swap meet for twenty bucks, it is out there. Keep us posted on your project.
  16. Looks very homemade to me, I've been under lots of '40 plys through the years and have never seen anything like that. I had a r10od in my '40 years ago and used the stock mounting as you have pictured.
  17. Great looking P10!!. Disconnect the vaccum line at the engine and put that submerse into some light oil, then move the wiper arms by hand to draw the oil into the wiper. Hope this helps.
  18. With the starter on the ground, it should not only spin fast, but you should have to hold it down to keep it from rolling around. Maybe the housing is cracked, or somehow getting into a bind when bolted to bellhousing?? Hope you can find the problem, your car looks great!!
  19. My '36 Chrysler is painted an '97 Ford Explorer blue, perfect match to what it was painted in '57. Now on it's 3rd paint job. Orginal color was brown.
  20. I also use ZDDP. I understand that with flat valve lifters the zinc content is an issue, not so with roller lifters. Modern oils don't have the zinc content that was common in the past.
  21. Thanks for all the compliments on the car. It's a C7 business coupe, the cheapest '36 Chrysler made. I believe the production run was 3,700. I feel very fortunate to have it. The spare tire was orginally behind the passenger seat, now in the trunk. It's running P21575R15's on 6" wide chrysler wheels.
  22. Thought I'd add a pic of my uncle and me 3 yrs ago at his birthday party in Bend Ore. I'm thinking I need to make that trip again within a few weeks, and maybe do the northern coast of cal (Albion) to visit my mom's cousin who is 84. The '36 will do 70 all day, but I keep it at 65
  23. My dad bought it off his brother in '57. Three years ago I drove it to my uncles 82nd birthday party/family reunion in Bend Ore. Was the first time he'd seen it in years. He told me my dad couldn't wear it out, but I probally will.
  24. So who said that?? I said the car has that mileage. The current engine has been in the car for 20yrs, 252 cu. And yes, it is has been well taken care of.
  25. I've had the car for 5 years (was my dad's) and can probally account for 5,000 of the 450,000+ miles on it. I doubt if I've added little more than a quart, if that.
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