David Strieb
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Everything posted by David Strieb
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you can also screw proper grade and length bolts through the back side of the drum, but left hand bolts are hard to find. The drums on my '38 dodge are all right hand thread,., and all have bolts through the back side...works great!!
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If you mean will the P15 era spindle will fit the P11, P12, yes they are a direct fit. I ran the dual wheel cly front brakes on my P10 before it got a fatman sub frame and a pinto / mustang ll suspension. The P15 spindles will also fit my '38 dodge pickup, but the '38 steering arms won't match the P15 spindle. Hope this helps. David
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Alway Important to have Tools
David Strieb replied to RodFru2u's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
WOW!!! That could have been a disaster!! First post on the truck forum, long time member of the car side. I was always told by an old school mechanic (my dad) that you can't over tighten the rear axle nuts. I use a good fitting 3/4" drive socket, flex bar, and a 4' long cheater bar. if the cotter pin holes don't line up, tighten more till they do even if you have to stand on it. David -
Thanks for the reply James. Your setup looks solid and should work great!! I think curt mfg has a setup that will work for me which I will look into after I finish a brake rebuild on my '38 Dodge RC
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Yes, 1936 airstream business coupe. My dad bought this in 1957, he passed away in 2000 in the middle of a rebuild. I finished the work in 2004, then bought it from my mom in 2005. First picture is my dad in the mid 1970's, other picture is 2007 after a repaint.
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Thanks again Greg, the shop that quoted me over $500.00 for a fabricated unit is a dealer for Cort mfg. I'll go back and see if there is one that will work. With what they offer, I think there is one that will work.
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Thanks Greg, I did a quick search and made a few calls, but mostly found supplies for "urban" farmers so I'll have to look a little further from home.
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Thanks for looking, I've spent a lot of time looking for missing parts only to find they were right where I put them!!!!!
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My orginal was shot, so I made my glove box from some scrap at work during lunch one day.
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Thanks for all the input!! I'll take some measurements and make a trip to the local parts yard when it cools down a bit, mid 90's in western wa. for the next few days!!! Ledfootslim, I would be interested in some pics of the setup from your S-11, thanks. I've seen some universal towing mirrors that attach with a strap to the doors, has anyone used these? Thanks, David
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I'm also trying to figure out what to do about mirrors.
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Your advice is well taken. After driving my P10 in it's stock configuration for 20+ years, it now has a fatman subframe, rack and pinion, 10" front discs, a V8, 4 speed auto and a modern rear end. The trailer also has electric brakes, so safe towing won't be an issue. It's also a daily driver, so I carry regular insurance and the trailer (when attached to the car) is covered along with the car. I'm just looking for an easy alternate to having something totally custom fabricated. Thanks, David
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Boy this forum has changed since I last logged on, I like it ! I did a search on trailer hitches, but the information I found was a little weak. I have a 15' 1964 Santa Fe travel trailer I want to tow with my P10. I thought I had seen where an explorer hitch was almost a bolt on? I was quoted $550.00 to have one proffesionaly made....just wondering if there's a less expensive route? Thanks, David Strieb
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No more than you are, but I am a car enthusiast who's tired of the "my car is better than yours bs"
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another useless thread. if you don't like how some one builds their car, put your big boy pants on and deal with it.
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Supporting the engine for timing chain replacement
David Strieb replied to Joe Flanagan's topic in P15-D24 Forum
make a "U" shaped support out of some 2x4's that spans the width of the pan and catches the moter where the pan bolts on, and support that with a couple of jackstands or dunage. Your motor will be steady with no damage to the pan, and you'll be safe when under the car. Be safe!!!! -
I've always used a chain from the gen. mount holes to the rear manifold stud, then assemble the motor when it's in the car.
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Shel, that's why I'm still single. If she ain't a gearhead, they don't stick with me too long.....some of my married friends consider me highly evolved and very intellgent:eek::eek:
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I pump regular unleaded in the '38 and '40 (mechanical pumps), mid range in the '36 (electric pump) and drive the hell out of them. I think if you drive 'em you're less likely to have problems, IMO. I'm thinking of switching to electrical pumps on everything, as vapor lock is a problem at times on the '38. Not sure if gas in Wa. is the same as what you're running.
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You should be able to remove the whole front clip assembly, fender bolts at the body cowl and radiator bolts where the radiator support bolts to the frame. The whole front clip comes off in one unit with 2 brave people, 3 if you have enough friends. Take the bumper and hood off first, undo any wires.
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The rain didn't stop, just moved a little south and paid me a visit!
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It's more of the drivers skill than the cars ability.
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Those shrinking discs are nice and do work well. An acetylene torch will do the same thing as well, better in smaller curverd areas (beads and such) where a disc would be hard to control. Any type of metal forming works on the principal of strecthing or shrinking. Metal has "memory" and can restored to its orginal form as long as its not rotten, torn, or cut...I'm not an expert, but have worked in fabrication shops (not body work) since '83.
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I agree Tim. About a month ago there was a NSRA appreciation day in Renton, Wa held at a well known repair shop. Kinda sponsored by a club I'm associated with. Most members are street rodders and NSRA safty inspectors. They did free safty inspections all day, and also had a handful of trophies (unknown to most in attendence). At the end of the day, it turned out that the "Best Mopar" trophy had been stolen before the awards were given. Don't know how someone could hang that on the wall and brag to their buddies and be able to sleep at night. I don't attend car shows either, perfer to put the entry fee in the gas tank and drive.
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I know I always carry the right size deep well socket in my pocket. I'm talking about opportunity.....a dime can fit a slotted screw. If someone wants to steal something, I'm sure they will. Hell, why should I even lock my doors or take my keys out of the ignition, if the car gets stolen I can just file a claim. It makes more sense to take a little precaution to prevent becoming a victim than to leave an open invitation and then whine about it.
